1986 k20 Rear Brake Problems. PLEASE HELP!!

[Brad18xx]

i lifted my truck 9 inches (fully suspension) and i have this mechanism on my truck that connects to the frame and down to the housing that the brakes run through and i guess its for more stopping power when there is added weight. Anyways i had to unbolt it to raise the truck and now since it hangs there and its not long enough my truck stops instantly with vary little brake at all. is there anyway to get ride of the mechanism? also i know if i extend it that should work my i have no idea what position it was in to make it work right with no weight. i also need to do it without the bed because i have no bed right now. the bed adds weight. Please Help!!

[Your41Plague12]

Lots of people simply eliminate it with no adverse effects. Post pics of your rig! And it's good to see another Pittsburgh guy on here! I may have seen your truck around, if you're close to North Hills.

[86c20]

if you are going to tow with it i would say keep it they do work well. if you get ride of it you will need a proprtioning vale that is adjustable

[86454k30]

Remove the arm from the valve to the axle. Then remove the valve from the frame and run the hard brake line that comes from the front of the truck directly to the soft line. You will actually have better rear brakes when you are done. That is how I have done all the ones I have lifted.

[Brad18xx]

Originally Posted by 86454k30

Remove the arm from the valve to the axle. Then remove the valve from the frame and run the hard brake line that comes from the front of the truck directly to the soft line. You will actually have better rear brakes when you are done. That is how I have done all the ones I have lifted.

My dad is the one who game me the truck and he said like 10 years ago when he had new brakelines put on they took that piece off and as soon as you hit the brakes it stopped suddenly like it is doing now.

[Brad18xx]

Originally Posted by Your41Plague12

Lots of people simply eliminate it with no adverse effects. Post pics of your rig! And it's good to see another Pittsburgh guy on here! I may have seen your truck around, if you're close to North Hills.

I live in the south hills. right around baldwin dormont greentree castle shannon and mt lebanan. i will start a thread on my build and send you a link!

[Your41Plague12]

Sounds good, I've worked all through the south hills. It can be a real nightmare around rush hour! I'm in the north hills, about a mile and a half from Ross Park Mall. That's the only real landmark I could think of in the north hills, so I apologize for that! I'm going to have to look at my 83 and see if my load adjusting setup is still intact, I forget. It hasn't been on the road in 7 months now due to a cab swap that turned into a body off restoration + completely new wiring.

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by 86454k30

Remove the arm from the valve to the axle. Then remove the valve from the frame and run the hard brake line that comes from the front of the truck directly to the soft line. You will actually have better rear brakes when you are done. That is how I have done all the ones I have lifted.

X2

I just did this to my Suburban today.

1) Remove the brake line that attaches to the rear axle and flip it around so the hose has more reach towards the front of the axle

2) Remove the Height Sensing Proportioning Valve and extra line that goes from the valve to the brake hose

3) Connect the brake hose from the axle to the main brake line that used to go into the Height Sensing Proportioning Valve

4) Bleed brakes

That is it! The burb stops like it should now instead of darting all over road during braking.

[Brad18xx]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

X2

I just did this to my Suburban today.

1) Remove the brake line that attaches to the rear axle and flip it around so the hose has more reach towards the front of the axle

2) Remove the Height Sensing Proportioning Valve and extra line that goes from the valve to the brake hose

3) Connect the brake hose from the axle to the main brake line that used to go into the Height Sensing Proportioning Valve

4) Bleed brakes

That is it! The burb stops like it should now instead of darting all over road during braking.

Thankyou so much! i will try this

[Brad18xx]

Originally Posted by Your41Plague12

Sounds good, I've worked all through the south hills. It can be a real nightmare around rush hour! I'm in the north hills, about a mile and a half from Ross Park Mall. That's the only real landmark I could think of in the north hills, so I apologize for that! I'm going to have to look at my 83 and see if my load adjusting setup is still intact, I forget. It hasn't been on the road in 7 months now due to a cab swap that turned into a body off restoration + completely new wiring.

I know rush hour sucks! I am not even a mile away from the intersection of 88 and 51! I am also doing a cab of restoration because i was starting with just replacing the floor pans and i got a deal on a cab and bed that both have no rust so im doing a restoration now. Im having trouble uploading pic right now though. i started a thread but when i try uploading pics it says error and it suck that you can only do a few at a time. i have like 50 pics to put up!

[Your41Plague12]

Host them all on www.imageshack.us and then they should work.

[Brad18xx]

Originally Posted by Your41Plague12

Host them all on www.imageshack.us and then they should work.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post5830655

[LONGHAIR]

I have always extended the linkage by the same amount as the lift. Just measure/record the angle of the lever before starting. The thing is essentually a regulator that takes braking away from the rear, when unloaded, to help eliminate rear wheel lock-up.
It might even pay to make it adjustable, for that same reason.

[motornut]

as mentioned
in hard braking,it will keep the back from lifting and skidding when light
this idea is used in many other makes of vans/trucks

[Brad18xx]

If i add disk brakes to the rear will it effect anything