suspension dilemma result

[Jeff56]

I decided to go with a 77 camaro front clip. Got the clip from a guy that I work with for 200 bucks. Im going to have it installed and drive it like that for now. I have 2 questions if you vuys can help. 1. I want to run airbags what are my options with that? 2. What booster and master cylinder can I run in the stock location for that clip or is that possible. Thanks guys
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[Speedbumpauto]

You can probably modify your lower control arms but Heidt makes a 1" narrower tubular control arm set that does air or coil overs. That's what I used. I'm also running a dual m/c + double diaphragm booster in about the stock location. I used a universal mounting kit since I had cut the original off back when I was going firewall and I mounted the clip a little different than most folks do. Easy enough with a little fabrication. Have pics if you think you want to go that way.

[mr48chev]

If and when the time for bagging it comes there should be plenty of bag setups for that suspension. Or do as Speedbumpauto suggested and look into the tube A arms. If it is a front steer Subframe it's pretty much the same suspension as a 73/77 Chevelle or other GM that size.

[Jeff56]

So would it be better to piece together a front kit. Like get a crossmember and add A arms. Or will the camaro clip be fine and jjst buy a airbag kit.
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[Speedbumpauto]

If your on a budget and have some fab skills, you can modify the lower control arm for an air bag. One of the drawbacks to the later clip is they are wider and can limit your choice of wheels on the front and if it needs to be rebuilt, you need some time and skills to give it ball joints and bushings, etc. Those clips also have the annoying habit of sagging which can make proper camber adjustment difficult without buying a special excentric bushing to make up for the frame spread. The Heidts units are narrower and seem to have engineered out some of the camber problems the stock units have( I haven't done final alignment so I won't say for sure til I do) AND they come with urethane bushings/shafts and new ball joints, etc. and they are a direct bolt on for your clip. SO...as always, it comes down to time or money. I threw some money at it because it fit my needs(and I had some money) but if on a more strict budget, I know I could have made the stock stuff work just fine...except for the wheel/tire choices which I hated during the mock up with the stock stuff.

[mr48chev]

As he quite often does, Speedbumpauto gave an excellent explanation.

Almost every modification we make to our trucks involves some compromise somewhere along the line. I've had two subframed vehicles. My 48 that you see in my avatar and the 51 Mercury coupe I owned for 32 years and was my first car at age 16. I subframed both of them and both drove great and rode great. Both involved as many or more hours trying to fit the front end sheet metal as it took to set the subframes up and weld them on. Both took completely rebuilding the front suspension after they were installed before I could drive the vehicles. That wasn't an issue as I was a GM front end specialist for years before I started teaching auto mechanics.
You do have to make sure that the donor vehicle was not in a wreck where the front end was or may have been damaged. You also want to inspect the front end for cracks or other damage closely. The sagging (if it is) crossmember can be put back within specs by "rolling" it. This is by chaining the outside ends down to the front end rack and using a heavy bottle jack to push up on the crossmember to roll the upper A arm mounting points back out into their proper position or relationship to the crossmember. It's not for the unskilled or timid but it is done quite often on these chassis. The bad part is that the sagging process begins anew and over a few years it may sag right back to where it was. Engine size and driving habits do have something to do with it though as I have seen cars with 300k on them that didn't sag while seeing cars with 60K that had to have the crossmember rolled to be aligned.

This is a link to the tech article Lux Blue wrote on the HAMB on installing a similar subframe on a Task Force truck. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=148978

It has pretty well become the go to set of instructions for subframing one of those trucks and following it will give a guy a pretty good driving truck that sits right. He has a shop in Austin where he does a lot of subframe swaps among other work. There are other ways to do it but for a truck that you plan to drive and drive a lot I'd suggest that his method will give you a good safe chassis.

As for myself, I've come to the point where I probably won't do another subframe job and use aftermarket suspension based on the Mustang II or other setups instead as I prefer to keep the stock frame uncut to make it easier to get the sheet metal aligned and some states and other entities are having issues with subframed vehicles. That is mostly because of suspect workmanship though.

[Mac the Yankee]

If I might suggest, take a look at the posts from JAWS on the HAMB thread that's linked about.

His work is VERY good- I've been taking notes/saving pics of his to get ready to clip my '56!

[Jeff56]

Do you have a link to that. I cant seem to find that.
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[mygirlz55]

I followed the HAMB way of installing a 77 camaro clip in our 55 and it went quite well. Haven't been able to get much done lately due to work and the WEATHER(garage isnt big enough)
I ended up using the steering from a Chevy astro van to match up the stock steering shaft to the camaro gear box.
BTW hello from another Central Californian

[Mac the Yankee]

Sure Jeff- here you go:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=148978

[tmoble]

I installed a 77 Camaro subframe under my 57 3100 back in '93, still running good today. I'm not up on any frame sag deal on the subframes, I thought that was a 64-72 Chevelle deal. I used, still using, the stock frame mount master cylinder. It's not power brakes but I have good brakes. More recently installed a 88 Vette rear, still usig the stock M/C. Still have good brakes.

I have the bracket that installs a later model dual master, but don't like any of the solutions for getting brake fluid into it. So far.

[mygirlz55]

Originally Posted by tmoble

I I used, still using, the stock frame mount master cylinder. It's not power brakes but I have good brakes. More recently installed a 88 Vette rear, still usig the stock M/C. Still have good brakes.

I have the bracket that installs a later model dual master, but don't like any of the solutions for getting brake fluid into it. So far.

So it is possible to use the stock master cylinder with the stock camaro disc brakes?!? If this is the case PLEASE post some pics of your setup. I am VERY interested in this. Would save me some headaches and money for now and could get the truck on the road quicker.
Thanks

[tmoble]

Sorry, slow to respond. here's pic of what I have, part of the line is hidden. from the Tee forward the lines with the steel spring rock guard are factory Camaro. from the Tee to the master is a piece of auto parts store line I bent up and flared to meet the Tee at back of the M/C. It's nothing special, just a piece of line.