steering box worse after replacement

[chris989]

Hello all,

I just had my steering box while the truck was in the shop for a rear main seal. The old steering box was leaking badly from the steering shaft.

Now that the new box is installed the truck pulls left while braking and the steering wheel does not have consistent resistance when turning. It also feels loose like i can move the wheel from 11-1 o'clock while driving without much response to the tires.

With the old box the truck drove perfect. Straight as an arrow, it was only the leak that prompted the replacement.

Could it be a bad box, valve or air in the system??? All ideas appreciated.

Thank you,
Chris

[speedygonzales]

Maybe they hosed the rag joint when they did the work. They might have forgotten to tighten the pitman arm. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the components underneath. They could also account for pulling under braking if you didn't already have that problem.

[chris989]

the company sent me a new box,, it is 100 percent better but the box is so easy to turn it has zero road feel.

Anyone have this to tight or too loose after installing a new box?

chris

[ChevyTech]

The feel comes from inside the steering gear.

You are getting junk parts.

[dragginmetal]

Originally Posted by chris989

the company sent me a new box,, it is 100 percent better but the box is so easy to turn it has zero road feel.

Anyone have this to tight or too loose after installing a new box?

chris

I have this problem. I just didn't know it was a problem. I've wondered if it was right. I've just never drove one of these trucks with new steering to know what right felt like. I can drive it with 1 finger and no effert in turns and parking. I should have knew it was junk parts. Autozone $150 w/exchange.

[chris989]

dagginmetal
are you going to replace the box? do you have the EVA sensor? mine is a 96 without the variable assist.

Mine was not autozone, but from a company in socal.

I replaced the box on my 89 burb and it is too stiff. Takes a firm grip to turn the wheel.

Tech support from atsco was describing the rods the regulate fluid could be too thick or tn for the application resulting in too easy or too firm wheel. I find this a little hard to believe so this could make such a radical difference.

[ChevyTech]

Originally Posted by chris989

dagginmetal

Tech support from atsco was describing the rods the regulate fluid could be too thick or tn for the application resulting in too easy or too firm wheel. I find this a little hard to believe so this could make such a radical difference.

This is an accurate description of how the feel is controlled.

The feel comes form flexing a rod / small shaft. If you break the rod there will be NO feel or resistance.

[chris989]

can new rods be purchased somewhere?

I feel i never get a straight answer from the shop that builds the boxes

[ChevyTech]

You know what.

I should not have replied to this thread. Shame on me!

You do not even state what model year or vehicle you are working on.

If it is new enough to have variable assist that can come in play also.

[chris989]

it is a 1996 2500 4wd. 8600 gvw. it does not have assist. My original post was generic so to encompass multiple years that may have similar issues.

Most agree that replacement boxes are a headache. PSC does not have a box for my truck and even AC Delco from the dealer uses used part.

Thank you for confirming the rod issue. this is the 3rd gear box on this truck,,
first box=defective beyond drivable
second = super easy
third= beyond easy.

when the builder sent the third box he said they would build it for this truck but i am not sure what that is worth.

I do not mind buying another box, i just do not want to spend even more money to have the same result. It there a spec i should be citing when ordering??

chris

[dragginmetal]

Originally Posted by chris989

dagginmetal
are you going to replace the box? do you have the EVA sensor?


Tech support from atsco was describing the rods the regulate fluid could be too thick or tn for the application resulting in too easy or too firm wheel. I find this a little hard to believe so this could make such a radical difference.

Mines a '88 and just a project. I don't plan to change it yet. I don't drive it right now. ..... I don't think i have the EVA.


Do you have a link to that tech support info? I would like to read abought this rod y'all are talking about.

[ChevyTech]

The stub shaft has the torsion bar (rod) inside it. The stub shaft is the part the steering column connects to. The inner torsion bar can clearly be seen in the illustration that the first link brings you to.

Here is a link to an illustration in the patent filing and if you look at the second link below it has a detailed description how it works.
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4177714.pdf

The pdf file link is from this patent site for that design.
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4177714.html

Here is a link to a photo of a stub shaft removed from a gear:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic.../photo_14.html

[dragginmetal]

Thanks for the links. I understand the gear box alittle better now.

[chris989]

SOLVED,,,,,,

I pulled the steering gear out and returned it to the original shop that installed it, called Atsco tech and they selected a gear box from the warehouse, tested it, and sent it to me.

After my latest install I took the truck to a different front end shop to triple check the alignment. Guess what?? The alignment shop that was recommended to me first as "old school" they do it right" either jacked up the front end or failed to even check it properly.

My cam bolts were sheared and there was no way to adjust the caster. The new shop showed me the issue and printed out the detail graphics front the alignment machine.

The caster was -1.1 and -9. Factory specs are +2-4. I asked them to set at the higher end of the range. The shop set my caster at 2.7. Not the 4* i hoped for but maybe there was another reason it could not go higher without messing something else up. Obviously the difference is night and day.

When i replay my gearbox issue in my head i come up with this,,, The first box was truly defective, everyone agreed, The shop that installed it wanted to be sure and sent me to "his" alignment shop where in the process of checking/aligning a mechanic jacked up the cam bolts??? It is the only way. Prior to the whole mess we drove the truck on a 2500 mile vacation straight as an arrow.

I guess the moral is??
I should have installed the box myself the first time, (i ended up changing it out 3 times anyway) and do not ignore the obvious. ( the truck drove like negative caster) I should have changed shops sooner.
I hate to not trust the work of professionals but i am sooo tired or the "rip and run, get it done".

I hoped all of this helps someone,
Chris