Seat for a box

[tubbedII]

A false floor is simply a box that takes up the entire floor board and is built as shallow as possible to retain as much cargo space possible. You'd make a top plate that covers the entire box that's about 2" or so above the speaker to allow for speaker excursion, but the top plate would be the exact shape of the side panels to look like it's the floor...kinda like raising the bed floor when laying frame but doing it for a speaker box. You wouldn't need any special tools other than the typical box building tools.

In your situation with those speakers, your floor would be "raised" about a foot (7.5" speaker + 1" air gap between speak and bottom of box + 2" excursion + 1.5" of mdf). That's a lot of cubic space, but with that you could also mount your amps on the side of the box under the top plate so it's all hidden.

This probably still isn't the most ideal situation based on what your going for, but your speakers are a little limiting being so big.

[jimmydean]

If you use 3/4" MDF and mounted the subs on the under side, they shouldn't move THAT much to require a face board.

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

If you use 3/4" MDF and mounted the subs on the under side, they shouldn't move THAT much to require a face board.

Like a downfiring box? That makes total sense! I'd do 2 layers of 3/4" just be safe though.

Oh, and quit typing faster than me!!! Haha...

[jimmydean]

I was thinking up firing, just mount the subs on the underside. A double layer works. IIRC, the 18" Kickers I had were double front 3/4" and had plenty of excursion.

You could down fire them, too. I'm just not a fan of that style of mounting personally. Issues with down firing is you are making a large port out of the floor and unless you design it right, you could have tuning issues. I like to have my subs play into the open space the way god intended.

[YoungBurb88]

1)
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, we finally installed everything and for now it'll be out in open. However, I have a kill switch that will be used to turn the subs off/on so that I at least turn them off a couple miles before getting to my destination.

2)
When I can afford materials and have time I do plan to create a false floor to mount the subs in, so you advice will still be taken to heart and used.

3)
I already have to fix something, I kinda sorta blew the dust cap off one of the subs whilst playing "Amish Paradise" by Weird Al... but the sub is repairable though, I just need super glue lol

[tubbedII]

Glad you got something hooked up at least! So...WHERE'S THE PICS?!!!!

[YoungBurb88]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

Glad you got something hooked up at least! So...WHERE'S THE PICS?!!!!

............. coming????? I'll be honest, we didn't document the whole undertaking and project as we re-used a lot of what was already there. By re-use I of course mean, "cut out all the confusing poorly put together mess and kept what was good to make the best of what I have."

I'll take some pics of the finished project tomorrow after my interview and a pic of the "wounded" sub lol

[YoungBurb88]

Here's how the system sounds
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_ve7...ature=youtu.be

[tubbedII]

Sounds pretty good!

[YoungBurb88]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

Sounds pretty good!

Thank you, now if I could just get the pics resized you could see it too lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[tubbedII]

LOL...I use photobucket...it has a pretty simple resizing option.

[motornut]

i planning to put a sub(s) in a fake seat from my 88 conversion burb into my jimmy
but what about building a wood "fake" seat sub box
make it the size it needs high with a shorter back
maybe cover it the same as a seat,remove fake seat and install real one when needed
that way they could fire straight forward @you
and nobody knows.....
I love having a on/off switch on just the subs ,freaks people out

[YoungBurb88]

Finally got the "popped" sub fixed.. just got some impact resistant Locktite and it's good as new

[72LSK10]

In the late 90's and early 2000's I used to compete in dbDrag. I had a suburban back then with a sound system upwards of $30K. The best advise I give you is to tint your windows and never "Bump" your sound system near your house or near your destinations. I currently have an '04 Ram with a sound system upwards of $10K, non of my neighbors have the slightest hint of such a system. This is the best way to keep it that way. Don't advertise it.

[YoungBurb88]

Originally Posted by 72LSK10

In the late 90's and early 2000's I used to compete in dbDrag. I had a suburban back then with a sound system upwards of $30K. The best advise I give you is to tint your windows and never "Bump" your sound system near your house or near your destinations. I currently have an '04 Ram with a sound system upwards of $10K, non of my neighbors have the slightest hint of such a system. This is the best way to keep it that way. Don't advertise it.

Fortunately for me the windows came tinted and I have a kill switch for the subs alone. I usually shut them off well before I get to my destinations, I try to have them off before I get within a mile of any destination.

[derrickmanx1]

I made a down fire box in my 96 extended cab chevy that I competed with for about a year. I took the lower section out of the rear seat and built a box out of 3/4" mdf. I then stuffed 3 12w6 jl audio subs facing down and back. It fit snug to the floor in the front and the opening was to the back. It really hit hard like 141-142db. You'd have to know it was a box I even had people sit on it and not really know about it. It did take some time to build though and trial and error.

[YoungBurb88]

Originally Posted by derrickmanx1

I made a down fire box in my 96 extended cab chevy that I competed with for about a year. I took the lower section out of the rear seat and built a box out of 3/4" mdf. I then stuffed 3 12w6 jl audio subs facing down and back. It fit snug to the floor in the front and the opening was to the back. It really hit hard like 141-142db. You'd have to know it was a box I even had people sit on it and not really know about it. It did take some time to build though and trial and error.

Got any pics or a build thread for it? I'd love to see how to make one like what you described.

[derrickmanx1]

No build thread that was back in 1998-99. I didn't even own a computer then. When I sold the truck I sent the pictures with the truck and box. It was fairly straight forward to build. I used the original seat for a template and made it deeper because the 12w6's were about 6.5" deep. The hardest part was the upholstery making it look and feel like a seat.
Posted via Mobile Device