'73-87 center link geometry

[Reyals Bemus]

So I'm swapping '73-87 front suspension components into my '64 C10. I have the bigger '73-87 center link to go in with the later model tie rods and everything.

My question is- I noticed when I laid the '73-87 center link alongside my original center link, the '73-87 link is about 1" shorter overall. When I install it onto my pitman and idler arms, both now point more towards each other instead of being parallel like before. Is this a problem? Do the '73-87 C10s have different/enhanced steering geometry?

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Reyals Bemus

So I'm swapping '73-87 front suspension components into my '64 C10. I have the bigger '73-87 center link to go in with the later model tie rods and everything.

My question is- I noticed when I laid the '73-87 center link alongside my original center link, the '73-87 link is about 1" shorter overall. When I install it onto my pitman and idler arms, both now point more towards each other instead of being parallel like before. Is this a problem? Do the '73-87 C10s have different/enhanced steering geometry?

Does it not appear that just lengthening your tie rods(adjustment) might solve your dilemna?
sam

[Reyals Bemus]

Well the problem is in the fact that the pitman arm and idler arm are no longer parallel with each other. With the center link centered in relation to the frame rails, the pitman arm is pointed more toward the passenger side of the truck. This will surely screw with turning radius I would think?

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Reyals Bemus

Well the problem is in the fact that the pitman arm and idler arm are no longer parallel with each other. With the center link centered in relation to the frame rails, the pitman arm is pointed more toward the passenger side of the truck. This will surely screw with turning radius I would think?

Sounds like you are good so far. Assuming(?) you have adapted a newer ps box to your frame, you need to consider the box is now repositioned(spaced) ~3/4-inch further 'out' than before. This difference has to now be compensated for by lengthening the tie rod on that side--which will move the pitman arm back to pointing straight ahead, and parallel to idler arm.
This is just one step that is to be expected in these steering upgrades.
s

[luvbowties]

At the end of your upgrading, you will be doing the following: duct-taping your st. wheel housing to column with it in the center of its left-right turning extremes, letting pitman arm go where it may. Next, you will adjust your tie rods to link into pitman arm and idler arm. This will give you a straight-ahead toe-in adjustment. Last, you will adjust toe-in to proper specs--like 1/8 inch toed in, which SHOULD be done by equal adjustment of left and right tie rods. This ensures you maintain the same turn-ability to left and to right.

Essentially, we always wind up with this 3/4-inch outward box-spacing; and we will have split the difference, left and right, to compensate.
HTH,
sam

[tincan1966]

Maybe I am misunderstanding, but adjusting the tie rod length will do nothing for the distance betwen the idler arm and pitman arm- the center link does not adjust. The center link is solid with the holes in fixed locations.
You will need to use the '73-'87 idler arm, as well. They are offset and should re-align the idler parellel with the frame. You will need to drill at least one new mounting hole, if not both, not sure-been a while since I did this swap. I am assuming you installed a PS box with an adapter plate.
Hope this helps

[tincan1966]

I suggest looking thru the many forums on this.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

Maybe I am misunderstanding, but adjusting the tie rod length will do nothing for the distance betwen the idler arm and pitman arm- the center link does not adjust. The center link is solid with the holes in fixed locations.
You will need to use the '73-'97 idler arm, as well. They are offset and should re-align the idler parellel with the frame. You will need to drill at least one new mounting hole, if not both, not sure-been a while since I did this swap. I am assuming you installed a PS box with an adapter plate.
Hope this helps

ATTENTION Reyals Bemus. Please pay attention to tincan1966. I was completely off base in my previous posts, and tincan is absolutely correct. I've been "helping?" on an entirely different problem that some of us discover with these upgrades--not the one you aptly described. MY BAD, and my apologies; and thanks to tincan for his corrections.
Sam

[63sbssbbw]

You will need to drill 2 new holes for the 73-up idler arm ,and it mounts at an opposite (rearward)angle to the original(forward)angle
T