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Old 02-15-2013, 10:26 PM   #1
61memo
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brake problems

Hello every body i just finished my brake lines tried to bleed them no ffluid is comming out.Im doing the disc brake conversion on my 66 suburban.I ordered my kit from CPP im not using the booster im trying to do manual disc brakes am I doing something wrong?
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:32 PM   #2
akaupp
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Re: brake problems

Did you replace the master cylinder? If so, did you bleed it before hooking up the lines?
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:23 PM   #3
mikejnang
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Re: brake problems

Just did this last week. you have to bleed the master cylinder first, then hook up the lines and bleed the lines after that. to bleed the master cylinder, they should have included some plastic adaptors and some clear tubing, along with a diagram of how to set it up.

your going to need a couple quarts of fluid to get all the new lines bled.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:59 AM   #4
61memo
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Re: brake problems

Thank you for your help and information.I bled my brakes I have no back brakes and brake pedal is low,does anybody have info or am I doing something wrong thanks
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:33 AM   #5
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Re: brake problems

Rear disc or drum? If drum, make sure your brakes are adjusted up properly- there should be some slight drag felt while rotating the wheels.
Also, a procedure I taught works wonders. You can google "reverse bleeding brakes" and get a better desciption, but here goes:

You need a NEW pump style oiling can(like from a hardware store)
Fill it with new brake fluid
attach hose over end of oiling spout and connect to bleeder screw. Use same method as normal bleeding-start from farthest wheel from MC
Remove MC cap.
Open bleeder screw and pump fluid from the can into the system.
You may need an assistant to help watch, but keep pumping fluid until you get bubbles in the MC.
Do this on all four wheels,closing the bleeder screw before moving to another wheel.
What this does, is move the air in a natural direction -up. Also it fills the calipers, wheel cylinders and lines without making any real pressure.
Been using this method when doing complete new brake systems and it really cuts down the bleeding time.
Once you are done doing this, you can re bleed the regular way if you're not satisfied with the pedal feel.

More often than not, the reason for a low or spongy pedal is the drum brakes not adjusted tight enough. There's nothing wrong with having new brake shoes set pretty tight, as they will run in in a short time.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:33 AM   #6
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Thumbs up Re: brake problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by 61memo View Post
Thank you for your help and information.I bled my brakes I have no back brakes and brake pedal is low,does anybody have info or am I doing something wrong thanks
Did you alter your brake pedal push rod's length? Look at the pic of the 2 mc's--which piston looks like yours? If your orig looks like the one with the shallow 'pocket' and replacement looks like the one w/the deep 'pocket', you MUST lengthen your push rod by an amount sufficient to fill-in this extra depth. Pedal rod can be simply lengthened using a coupling nut from Lowe's with jamb nuts and threaded rod.

Just for interesting information: [[A company called getdiscbrakes.com makes a plug(their part #MCBUL01), kinda shaped like a bullet, to fill this void. I've actually never seen a mfg'd one, as we had already learned to make them, to go between wrongly-paired booster-and-m/c, for several years before I knew anybody actually made such an animal. We made them simply, using the non-threaded portion of a bolt, and grinding to loosely reside in the pocket. BUT I'D ADVISE TO NOT USE A PLUG FOR PEDAL-TO-MC--BUT ONLY FOR BOOSTER-TO-MC, AS NOTHING MUCH WOULD ENSURE ITS REMAINING IN PLACE IF POSITIONED BETWEEN BR-PEDAL AND MC!!!]]
HTH,
sam
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:49 PM   #7
61memo
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Re: brake problems

Thank you very much for your help its well apreciated.TINCAN 1966 im going to try your method by the way I have rear brakes and I did'nt replace my rear shoes before I started this prject my pedal for my drum brakes was good.Hey LUVBOWTIES my original master cylinder is a deep pocket just like the one I installed
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:07 PM   #8
geezer#99
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Re: brake problems

Did you depress the button on the front of the prop valve to reset it. It needs to be held in to bleed right.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:34 PM   #9
61memo
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Re: brake problems

I wasn't aware I had to depress the botton on the prop valve.Does it have to be pressed in while bleeding?thanks GEEZER #99
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:52 PM   #10
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Re: brake problems

Yup!! It needs to be held in while bleeding. THey make tools for it but a short piece of flat steel bent at a 90 and attached solidly will keep it depressed.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:08 PM   #11
61memo
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Re: brake problems

Hey GEEZER#99 could that be the reason for not having rear brakes?I do have front brakes.On my prop valve there is only two inlets one for rear drum brakes and one for front disk brakes both have the reset button even though I have front brakes do I stiil have to do it to the front? thanks
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:33 PM   #12
geezer#99
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Re: brake problems

Time for a pic of your prop valve and lines. Not sure what you mean by 2 buttons. Should be only one at the very front.
And if it's not reset you won't have rear brakes.
Take a pic.
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