rearended - the insurance what to total it

[tekno62]

the both frame rails are bent just behind the springs - the girl nailed the hitch. so its an easy fix - Im wondering what Cal DMV will want from me to get it back on the road. Also it seems that a lot of gremlins are starting to come out after it was hit. I'm just not sure I want to keep it at this point. the last thing is they seem to only think its worth about $3600 if they take it and $2500 if I keep it.

I may just fold on this truck and I'll look for a 1991 or so Suburban


Thoughts and Thanks
Tek

[oldblue1968chevy]

Got recipets?

[piecesparts]

It may appear that the framed is bent behind the wheels, but after you lift the bed, there could be more to see. The rear wheel alignment to the front end would be my question. Californiy is a strange bird when it comes to salvaged vehicles, check out a yard to see if they know what you have to deal with, along with your questions to the state. In Kansas a lot of this goes through the Highway Patrol offices.

[hugger6933]

Here in Arkansas you have to fill out a form to carry to the DMV that has all the parts that was changed and vin numbers if so equipped and also all of the parts that were repaired. . But also in AR you don't have a salvage title or any markings after like ten model years of the the trucks life, but if it is branded early on in its life it stays with the truck forever. Also being a rebuilder of wrecks that has been doing it sincre 1987, I very rarly have problems with vehicles after the wrecks stemming from the wreck. If it was in good shape before hnd it should be afterwards as well. Most all wrecks happen out on the road only one I have had was actually in a shop getting worked on when it got wrecked. I know you hear horror stories about people buying wrecked and rebuilt junk well if it is done right I have no problem with the rebuilt key word if it is done right. I am sure you would make just as sure it would be right this time as it was the last, so I would not be worried about the realiability if I were you. Jim

[Boog]

Without pics we cannot say whether you should repair it or move on. You sound skeptical of it being repaired. As hugger said there's nothing wrong with a rebuilt vehicle, if it's done right. My dad and I used to rebuild cars back in the 70s. A truck being hit in the rear is a good thing versus being hit in the front. Not near as many points to line up as in the front.
You can take the truck to a body shop or frame shop and have the frame checked out and straightened if needed. It didn't use to be all that expensive. Pickup another bed or fix yours and you are back on the road.
Don't accept the insurance company's first offer to quickly. They want to settle fast and cheap.

[Ol Blue K20]

hard to tell without pics but bringing a salvage title back on ths road is not hard in California. The title will say salvage forever though. It does lower the value but save pics of damage and the repair process to mitigate this. once repaired you will have to have a brake and lamp inspection at approved shop. Then take the cetification and title and their special form to dmv. they then issue new title and registration. Sorry about the lenghth of this replying
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[Mister-B]

Hmmm. A classic vintage truck, or a soccer mom assault vehicle?

If you did much work to the truck yourself, and it actually means something to you, I'd fight to keep it. Of course, we haven't seen pics to fully be able to offer an opinion
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[PanelDeland]

You can always tell the insurance co.You were looking for a fully restored replacement along with lucrative retirement since your back and neck hurts...........

Maybe they will do the right thing.

[68 Longbed Dan]

I would keep it, then back half the frame with a nice perdy four link and bag it .

Sorry to hear about your truck though man, all jokes aside. It's a shame, and I wish you the best.

[terry b]

Take the 2500.00 and part it out. You make more money people get good parts and my truck goes up in value because there is one less 68-72 out there.

[Spartan]

I has a similar situation. Insurance gave me what I thought was a lowball offer. I hired an appraiser and got my documentation together. I wanted to keep the vehicle and the salvage title wasn't important to me. I countered the insurance company's offer and they went for it. I was ready to go to court with them but I was dealing in the 12000 dollar range. I guess long story short - insurance wants a quick cheap solution and may be willing to talk, a salvage title means little if properly repaired. If its worth 3600 to them it's worth that much to you... IMHO
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[Longhorn 70]

I had a similar situation in 1991. I TBoned a guy that blew a red light and made a left in front of me. I rolled him over and through a tree. I turned my truck off and called it in.

The insurance company wanted to give $600 for it. I just hung up on them. They called me back 2 days later. I faxed them ads from AutoTrader (ebay and CL weren't here then), of comparable trucks. They gave me $3300 in 1991 dollars and my truck back. It was enough to replace sheet metal, core support and so on. I know there is a LOT more in it since then. There is a difference between love and a car.

Morale of the story: Don't take their first offer! If you LOVE your truck, keep it fix it. If it is just a truck, get all you can out of it, part it and get a cool rig.

I'm glad you're OK.

[lts70]

I had a 1998 Mercedes e320 that the insurance company wanted to total and give me $5600 for. I got it appraised for $11,000. I sent in the paper work and they paid it with out a fight. Cost me $100 for the appraisal, best $100 I ever spent!

I would say get it appraised if you think they are low balling you, because that is what they do.
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[72 K20]

hard to tell without pics but bringing a salvage title back on ths road is not hard in California. The title will say salvage forever though.

I recently bought a California salvage title truck and when I transferred it to Iowa the "salvage title "went away. I don't know if it is the same in other states.

The lady said that it was the age of the truck ,,,1972,,, the Iowa DMV didn't care .

Tom

[hugger6933]

I would say that the first offer is one to refuse Nicely. Most of the time I see people telling the adjusters what they are gonna have to do or better yet getting a lawyer right out of the box. Nobody likes that except maybe the lawyers. Would you want someone coming to your shop telling you what your gonna do for him? no most people don't like being told what to do, that is one reason we grew up. For the most part from my experiances if given the proper chances the adjuster will give what is fair ...on the second offer. Now with that being said if there is any way you can measure you bed mounting points in a "x" fashon like I have described on here many many times to determine how much the frame is pushed in or short on one side. Also measure the wheelbase [between the center of the axles to the center of the axles] on the front to see if those numbers are close [they need to be within a 1/2inch on the wheelbase]. I know that may seem like a lot of extra room on the wb but some of the trucks from the factory may be that far off. Take those two measurements to help you better decide if the truck is more or less worth the effort to save if you are not to emotionally attached to it. If those frame numbers are good that is huge as far as not having to spent big bucks with the frame man and the frame machine downtime during the build that can really add up and not to mention get next to the wallet. Jim

[biggestjohn]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

You can always tell the insurance co.You were looking for a fully restored replacement along with lucrative retirement since your back and neck hurts...........

Maybe they will do the right thing.

x2! There is no telling how much pain will come from this in the future.

[k_n_browning]

Ok my father used to work for an insurance co.So dont take the first offer thats what they want cheap.Now that said If you can wait them out.They will pay off sometime before the end of the year.By law they they can not carry over to the next year.Most states dont let go over 90 days.Nice thing about Oklahoma you can remove the frame and and put any frame you like.

[Hawghauler]

I have to agree with refusing "Politely" their first offer. I also agree on getting an assement of it's actual value. It's an inexpensive way to get what it's really worth. Ins companies are about making money, but they still have to follow rules. You just have to show them your serious. Then if that doesn't work, Release the Hounds! (Lawyers)

Once that is done, You can also pick up another like year truck, and transfer all your good stuff to that frame. You can usually find rigs with bad bodies for cheap that still have reasonable frames. It's a bit of work, but if you love the rig, it's worth it. It also gives you a chance to do some frame/suspension mods or just making it look better with a little paint here and there. You could probably do it with the ins money and still come out ahead. Not to mention selling any extra parts.

However it turns out, It sucks losing an old friend to someone's carelessness or stupidity.
Good Luck!

[k_n_browning]

One other thing dont use the word lawer.If you do the the next person you will talk to will be their lawer.Just a heads up.

[Steeveedee]

In California, if your vehicle is totaled, you can buy the salvage. This will mean that you'll buy back your vehicle for some small price. It will require brake and lamp inspections, and you'll end up with newer plates. I can't explain that last, and it's annoying, as my son's '70 Dart had blue plates with yellow letters, and it would have been nice to keep them, as they were original.

On a side note, when the shop did the brake and lamp inspection, they muffed it:

-The brake inspection- didn't report and/or replace/repair the leaking right front wheel cylinder, and didn't adjust the left front wheel bearing properly. '70 Dodges have left hand threads on the left side of the car. This is from first Dodge Bros until '72, when they switched to all right hand threads. The left front wheel bearing was left loose, and when my son got home from San Jose (about 360 miles) he mentioned that the car was really squirrelly coming through the mountains. No surprise there, the left side nut for the wheel bearings was about 3 turns loose, and the outer bearing was toast. I had replaced those bearings before he left. He arrived home with zip for fluid in the master!

- The lamp inspection- didn't aim the headlights

A California licensed shop is required to aim the headlights on a lamp inspection, and I can't imagine not telling the owner that they have a fluid leak! Leaving the bearing loose? Things to look for when you go to a shop to get your truck made right.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by k_n_browning

One other thing dont use the word lawer.If you do the the next person you will talk to will be their lawer.Just a heads up.

...and if that happens, you'll have to hire your own. Get a good recommendation, and DON'T TALK TO THEIRS UNTIL YOU HAVE ONE OF YOUR OWN, THEN LET YOURS DO ALL THE TALKING! Seriously, you'll get torpedoed if you don't. Sorry for the cap letters, but most of us know diddly-squat about the finer points of the law, and get burned all the time.

[mgchevyparts]

Something to try. A car of mine was hit and deemed totaled, which it was. The car was still in perfect running order since it was hit in the trunk. Most insurance companies charge you 10% of the value as the buy back amount, should you want to keep it. I did, now keep in mind the car was already paid for so I had the pink slip in my possesion. The insurance company sent me the pay off and asked for me to mail them the pink. I didn't and they never asked again. So the car never got a "salvage" title. If they want the pink before they will pay you then you may be stuck with the salvage title.

[67c10rustbuket]

If there is no body damage you should be able to have the frame fixed pretty reasonably. This truck pic'd was rearended 3 times, had two different beds and 3 different tail gates before I owned it. The body lines were off from body to cab so I had the frame checked, measured and straightened. Initial set up and measure cost me $50 and the actual straightening of the frame cost me $250. They also unbolted and realigned the bed once the frame was straightened.