Dana 44 Front Disassembly - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

1972K20 · 02-06-2013, 06:18 PM

I'm working on taking apart a Dana 44F on my 72 K5 and have a few questions. I've gotten to the wheel bearing (see circled #59 in the diagram). How do you get this out? Does it require a bearing puller? I'm working on getting to the u-joint. Can it just stay in the hub and slide off?

Thanks

Dale99 · 02-06-2013, 07:08 PM

There are 2 spindle nuts, which you need a special tool to remove (or it makes it tons easier).

Take first one off
take lock washer off
remove 2nd nut.

Dont chisel it all off like I did over the weekend and eff everything up

1972K20 · 02-06-2013, 07:16 PM

I'm passed the spindle nuts. I removed both. I'm to the wheel bearing now.

Crash_OK · 02-06-2013, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1972K20

I'm passed the spindle nuts. I removed both. I'm to the wheel bearing now.

It should come off with the rotor/hub.. The seal should hold it in the hub.

1972K20 · 02-20-2013, 02:23 AM

Thanks for all the info guys!

I have a new question. How tight does the two spindle nuts need to be when putting it back together? I don't want to over tighten and ruin the wheel bearings.
Posted via Mobile Device

burnin oil · 02-20-2013, 09:23 AM

I don't have the factory specs in front of me but the way I always do them is to shove the hub onto the spindle. Then tighten the hub nut up to about 65ftlbs while turning the hub. This helps to ensure the bearing seats properly. Once you run the nut up tight back it off. Now run it up to just under snug. Reinstall the locking tab. If the tit doesnt line up I tighten the bearing to make it fit. This is opposite the book method. They start tight then loosen. My preference is for being slightly snug over wobbley and have never lost a hub bearing from my method. Whichever way you go the key is to not have the bearing overly tight where it is hard to turn or to loose so that the wheel wobbles and shimmys. You are aiming for that happy middle space. A great trick for lining up the lock washer is to clean it really good and throw a little grease on it. When you reinstall it the nipple will leave an indentation in the grease if it is misalligned. Now you have a reference on where the inner nut needs to go for alignment. Once that is in snug the outer hub bearing in and reinstall the hub mechanism. Pretty simple job actually.

Dale99 · 02-20-2013, 09:24 AM

Just like you would a 2wd truck. Ive always had to go back and re-tighten mine.

Due to the amount of work to redo these, I made mine real tight compared to what I have in the past. I made it where I could spin it with my hand, but soon as I let off, it would stop turning.

02-06-2013, 06:18 PM	#1
1972K20 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 741	Dana 44 Front Disassembly I'm working on taking apart a Dana 44F on my 72 K5 and have a few questions. I've gotten to the wheel bearing (see circled #59 in the diagram). How do you get this out? Does it require a bearing puller? I'm working on getting to the u-joint. Can it just stay in the hub and slide off? Thanks Attached Images

02-06-2013, 07:08 PM	#2
Dale99 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: NLR, AR Posts: 1,387	Re: Dana 44 Front Disassembly There are 2 spindle nuts, which you need a special tool to remove (or it makes it tons easier). Take first one off take lock washer off remove 2nd nut. Dont chisel it all off like I did over the weekend and eff everything up __________________ 2008 Sierra k3500 LMM 1994 s10 blazer 4x4 1991 Camaro Vert Rusted in Half RIP 1972 Jimmy 4x4 L05,4L60E,np205http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=546364 1967 C10 L6/3tree(dads truck)

02-06-2013, 07:16 PM	#3
1972K20 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 741	Re: Dana 44 Front Disassembly I'm passed the spindle nuts. I removed both. I'm to the wheel bearing now.

02-20-2013, 09:23 AM	#6
burnin oil Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Eastern TN Posts: 1,921	Re: Dana 44 Front Disassembly I don't have the factory specs in front of me but the way I always do them is to shove the hub onto the spindle. Then tighten the hub nut up to about 65ftlbs while turning the hub. This helps to ensure the bearing seats properly. Once you run the nut up tight back it off. Now run it up to just under snug. Reinstall the locking tab. If the tit doesnt line up I tighten the bearing to make it fit. This is opposite the book method. They start tight then loosen. My preference is for being slightly snug over wobbley and have never lost a hub bearing from my method. Whichever way you go the key is to not have the bearing overly tight where it is hard to turn or to loose so that the wheel wobbles and shimmys. You are aiming for that happy middle space. A great trick for lining up the lock washer is to clean it really good and throw a little grease on it. When you reinstall it the nipple will leave an indentation in the grease if it is misalligned. Now you have a reference on where the inner nut needs to go for alignment. Once that is in snug the outer hub bearing in and reinstall the hub mechanism. Pretty simple job actually.

02-20-2013, 09:24 AM	#7
Dale99 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: NLR, AR Posts: 1,387	Re: Dana 44 Front Disassembly Just like you would a 2wd truck. Ive always had to go back and re-tighten mine. Due to the amount of work to redo these, I made mine real tight compared to what I have in the past. I made it where I could spin it with my hand, but soon as I let off, it would stop turning.

02-20-2013, 02:23 AM	#5
1972K20 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 741	Re: Dana 44 Front Disassembly Thanks for all the info guys! I have a new question. How tight does the two spindle nuts need to be when putting it back together? I don't want to over tighten and ruin the wheel bearings. Posted via Mobile Device



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