Just finished dash pad/hoses/etc. replacement, lessons learned

[mt Al]

This was my second time doing this fairly simple, but time consuming swap and learned a few lessons.

Changed the dash pad, all hoses (defrost and AC) and heat/ac controller and cables.

Chose to use GMC Paul's "longer lasting hoses" rather than the original style. They are great, but I couldn't make the tight turn on the passenger side AC vent without kinking the hose badly. So...I cut a small piece of the new hose, hooked it to the AC vent connection, bought a PVC 90 (degree) and taped it/spliced it into the hose. Works great.

Also got the center AC vent blocks and am glad for it. Sinch to put in, less clutter behind the already VERY cluttered dash. It comes with two cheesy looking plugs and two screws. Just had to drill a big enough starter hole so it wouldn't split.

To cheap to buy a new re-chromed center vent, so it was painted black. Just masked off the center swiveling part, sanded it with 320/400 and shot some black Dupli-Color on it. It looks OK, but makes it clear that I'm no body man.

Also too cheap initially to change the dash bezel. DUMB! Its going to be in the next order to The Man (Paul).

Bought a new diverter box for the AC/Heat (also from Paul, like the rest). The Chinese/Taiwanese put some cheesy looking WHITE glue around the top of the tabs instead of inbetween the tabs and the box. Looked like crap. Covered it with black magic marker, now looks great.

Dash pad dilemmas. I hate changing these things. The most trouble some of the nuts are those in the corners and above the AC center vent. However, with enough monkiing around, they all came out. I unhooked the wiper switch, light switch and rear AC switch (its in a suburban). It was much easier to get to the stinking nuts that way. In goes the new pad. Couldn't get the stamped nuts on. After much hassle and testing/trying new nuts I found out that its a METRIC bolt coming out of the new pads and that, if you crank down too hard, the bolt will turn inside the pad. The original pad's bolts are welded to a bar that runs the length of the pad. These bolts obviously are not. Bought the right nuts with lock washers and put them on. Works fine.

Has anyone put on a simple dash cover? I'm tempted next time.

Putting on the new cables was a pain in the rear for some reason, but they finally work.

Took off the metal heater outlet (on top of hump) and painted it black with the same dupli-color as above. Looks much better, covering 30 years of kicks, duct tape and other abuses.

I can't imagine changing the wiring harness behind the dash. Has anyone done it? Did you survive?

New problem: Now my fan doesn't turn on until the second speed. Also in the rear AC housing. What gives? It worked fine before. Not a problem in the rear heater though. Any help on this one would be appreciated.

My main suggestion to anyone doing this in the near future is to do everything at one time and get it over with. Start early in the morning, send the wife and kids away for the day and take everything apart and start from the dash pad down. It took me one weeks total time with the dash apart, but most likely only about 10 hours of working time (including all AC diverter boxes, controller, cables, hoses and dash pad) and I'm not all that good at this stuff and basically suck as a mechanic. Someone with a clue would most likely have it done in half the time.

The last thing coming is a repro-stereo (AM/FM/Cassette) from Paul. When it arrives, I'll slip it in through the glove box, which is the only thing left off at the moment.

The carpet, sound deadener (B-Quiet Brown Bread) and rear seat out of a '93 'burb are next. Can't wait till its done.

Several board memebers helped with the cable issue, not to mention all I learn every day on this site. My money's going off to Josh next week. Thanks.

Any other thoughts and answers to the fan problems would be appriciated.

[barn9]

Been havin' lot's of fun haven't you Al? Dash work does suck. As for the fan problem, the most common culprits are the fan switch and the relay under the glove box, and of course old wiring.

I used a dash cover because I had already done everything under the dash, and I wasn't about to go through all that again if I could help it. The dash cover is great and was a very easy install. It is textured to look like the real thing, fit perfect, and not one person has ever noticed the difference. And IMO, since it is a hard, molded plastic, it is tougher than the vinyl covering.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Iv'e been working on the instrument package on the '68 stepside (standard, no guages) and cleaning up the wiring under the dash on the drivers' side. I took out all old wiring that went to gadgets that aren't on the truck anymore. Also replaced the light switch, ignition switch and cigar lighter and fixed the dome light -- it hadn't been on for 15 -17 years. The speedo and gas guage got masked off and the needles sprayed a new day-glo red. Looks too new. New bulbs in back, 11 of 'em.
Last year I went thru that same dash pad hell on my '71 Jimmy. Had to send the first one back to Brothers' because the stud on the far left would spin. It wasn't threaded right, there was some defective spalling on the threads and you couldn't get a nut started on it. They sent me a new one. I found the easiest way in the long run is to pull the instrument panel, heater control (maybe radio--easier w/o one) and the glove box to get good access to the dash pad fixtures. Looks good now.
In the mid-Eighties, I pulled the old dash pad from the stepside, chipped off the OEM "dark fawn" brittle plastic and recovered it myself with some saddle color vinyl that I also had the seat done in. There were very few aftermarket venders then. It wasn't a classic yet-- just an old truck! Anyway I remember doing it the hard way and how much it sucked.

[70c10]

Hey Barn9,
How does the new plastic dash cover attach? Is it with screws or adhesive?

[barn9]

It came with a large tube of silicone adhesive. If the old pad has any bad spots, you trim off anything that sticks up, then fill the cracks and voids with silicone, as well as lay down full-length beads of silicone for the cover to stick to. Then just snap the cover on and run your hand down the full length to press it into the silicone to make sure it gets a good seal. Very easy install, and I reccommend it highly. If I had the dash all apart, I would probably go the whole pad route, but other than that I would use the cover any day. I have air, and there is entirely too much stuff in the way, and it's all a pain to take apart and then put back together. I had already re-done the under dash wiring, the dash, new air hoses, stereo, heater controls,etc., and there were only a couple of cracks in the dash pad, so I didn't let it worry me. But after painting and new interior, the dash pad really stuck out, so I got the cover and have no regrets about doing so.

[mt Al]

Next time, I'm going the Barn9 route. Thanks for the input.

A buddy of mine has a very nice '71 with original olive paint that looks brand spanking new, even on the interior. His truck has the plastic cover and it looks fantastic, can't even tell.

He's quite insane and actually cut 5" ( I think they were 5" diameter?) holes outside of each of his defrost vents for speakers. He told me that he'd NEVER do it again, had to break off a small piece of hack saw blade and cut with tiny strokes for ever. He also cut the 6 x 9 holes in the doors and put on the lower door carpet after he put the speakers in. The stereo system is killer. He said he'd only do it again after a few rock chips in the wind shield and do it during the replacement.

Thanks again for the input.

[Southpa]

One thing I noticed about dash pads. When I originally installed mine I noticed one little section right above one of the bolts was raised up about 1/8". I was pretty sure I had it seated down nice and tight and it wouldn't flatten out. Before painting my dash I pulled the pad and had a look underneath. I found little raised areas of plastic around a few of the bolts, not trimmed off after the molding process. I cut them off with a sharp knife, reinstalled and she sits nice and flat now. Just something to double check beforehand to save the hassle of unscrewing again.

[mt Al]

I've noticed the same thing, now I know why. Too late to change it now, but thanks.

[Longhorn Man]

Something to add, I have used hose clamps(painted black) and also zip ties to help hold the hoses to the pipes.

[1971LT1SWBPOSI373]

Well, I hate to say it, but anytime you get a part that is not USA made look it over real good. They just are not made to our standards. Those parts are being made by people in other countries who have never even seen a GM product, so just keep that in mind. Finding metric bolts on a new dash pad doesn't suprise me one bit, but it will work. Always be leary!!!!!!!!!!!
TJ

[Mike C]

If you don't want to pony up for a new bezel yet, sand the plastic chrome with 400 grit paper and shoot with semi flat black. Then use a toothpick in some model paint to highlight the "lights" and "wiper" wording. You will be amazed at how good that looks, especially if you choose to use aftermarket 2 1/16" gauges with chrome bezels in the 4 lower holes and an after market 3 5/16" tach in the center bezel. In your doors think about going with 4" drivers and separtate flush mount tweeters. THese can be installed in the 67-71 door panels so if you ever want to return to "stock" all you have to do is just swap door panels and not weld up the bottom of your door. L/R stereo imaging is MUCH better this way. Solution for bass is a 10" free air sub in an infinite baffle below the passenger side of the seat.

[SEA-HAWKS]

I am in the middle of putting everything back together myself. A couple questions I have are.

What size of hose did you use around the a/c vents? It measures like 2.75 inches yet napa doesn't sell that size. This isn't an item where I think I need to order the kit from LMC.

On the floor vent right of the diffuser on the heater itself is there supposed to be a square cut out? This is on the driver side.

Regarding the lighter how many wires go into that? It worked before. Taking it out was easy. I should have done this all in one day, or taken some focus factor.

Is it common to have a ground that sits in between the shroud for the mechanical levers for the heat, a/c and vent to the dash. Not sure if that makes any sense to anyone. I pulled the heater lever box down below the dash and still have them connected but below where they go. I noticed though that a ground and one of the lights for the dash have fallen out of the unit. I know where the light goes just not sure of the ground. It looks like it pinches in between the dash and the lever housing. Not sure what it goes to. Taking suggestions.

The hose that runs to the driver side ac vent; does anyone have a clever idea to keep it from slouching? I am trying to clean it up a bit. I am not wanting to have any exposed cable zip ties.

A few things to add.

I also bought the middle plug set from I think LMC. Cheapest thing I have ever bought. After I got it I was like man a trip to the PVC pipe section of my nearby Home Depot would have been a better decision and cheaper too. Not that the 9 dollars or whatever for the kit was expensive it just is cheap. I plastic welded mine together rather than screwing it together. Nice and tight.

Again for the center ac vent. The back plastic piece I used a piece of cork and made my own gasket and used plastic emblem adhesive to bind it together. Then a quick box knife job and I got a really nice gasket.

Hopefully the thread wasn't jacked. Any suggestions would be welcomed.
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