Need some Porterbuilt pictures and measurements

[Hart_Rod]

I'm trying to finalize the PB rear extreme drop setup on my son's truck and would like to see some profile pictures with the bags aired fully up and fully deflated. Also, does anyone have the measurements from the frame to the front and rear of the axle? Ours is approximately 3" in the front and about 1 3/4" in the rear. I just want to make sure everything is correct before I weld up the rear bag plates. TIA.

PS. I know I could ask Nate, but I bug him enough as it is and figure someone on here would probably have the answers...
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[lolife99]

I don't have any measurements,... but it looks good to me.
Your upper and lower bag mounts are parellel,... correct?
Have you cycled the suspension up and down?
I would think you would need a little more room in front of the axle,... to allow the rearend to move forward when the trailing arms moved upward.
(when air'd out)

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I don't have any measurements,... but it looks good to me.
Your upper and lower bag mounts are parellel,... correct?
Have you cycled the suspension up and down?
I would think you would need a little more room in front of the axle,... to allow the rearend to move forward when the trailing arms moved upward.
(when air'd out)

Not exactly parrallel. The instructions say to put a 2 degree rearward tilt on the bag plates with the frame level (I think I ended up with about 3-4...). It looks fine at ride height, but not so much fully aired up or fully deflated. It just seems like the bags are at bad angles. I have to get some more airline and then I will take some pictures to show what I mean.

[lolife99]

I would just worry about the bag at ride height.
I assume you mean,... 2 degree rearward tilt "with the truck frame level"?

n2billet would be your other expert to ask here,... besides Nate.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I would just worry about the bag at ride height.
I assume you mean,... 2 degree rearward tilt "with the truck frame level"?

n2billet would be your other expert to ask here,... besides Nate.

Yes, 2 degree rearward tilt with frame level. Will do, I'll shoot him a PM. Thanks Keith.

[Hart_Rod]

Here are pictures inflated and air out.

[lolife99]

I would look at them at ride height.
Are they 9000 bags or 9002?

Here's the specs from RideTech:

Part# 90009000
tapered sleeve
1500#

-Min. Height 4.5"
-Installed height 9"-9.5"
-Max height 12"

Part# 90009002
tapered sleeve
1500#

-Min. Height 4.5"
-Installed height 8"-8.5"
-Max height 11"

[ddubbs]

Mine look the same way and I installed by the instructions. I figured it was because the axle is set back and moves forward when the bags deflate. Would like to see what the outcome is.
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[Zoomin]

Is the axle going to drop that far when you get the shocks installed?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I would look at them at ride height.
Are they 9000 bags or 9002?

Here's the specs from RideTech:

Part# 90009000
tapered sleeve
1500#

-Min. Height 4.5"
-Installed height 9"-9.5"
-Max height 12"

Part# 90009002
tapered sleeve
1500#

-Min. Height 4.5"
-Installed height 8"-8.5"
-Max height 11"

The bags have a 9000 on them.

Originally Posted by ddubbs

Mine look the same way and I installed by the instructions. I figured it was because the axle is set back and moves forward when the bags deflate. Would like to see what the outcome is.
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah agree, the axle doess moves forward quite a bit when they deflate. I just want to make sure it is correct before I weld everything up.

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Is the axle going to drop that far when you get the shocks installed?

It's supposed to. This is the extreme setup and should have a ride height of around 5" and put the frame on the ground when deflated all the way.

R/

[PBFAB.COM]

With the amount of travel and the design of the trailing arm suspension, there is going to be a little bit of pinion angle change. With this change, the bag position will also change as the axle rotates and moves fore/aft.

We always set them up so that the bag is neutral or close to it at ride height. The problem is that ride height on an air suspension can change depending on ones mood that day.

That's why in our instructions we suggest setting a little angle into the lower plate at ride height (frame 5" off the ground), and then cycling the suspension to confirm and or adjust if necessary. This will allow the angle to be less drastic as the truck's suspension compresses.... because we all know that once you get comfortable with a 5" ride height it won't be low enough.... next thing you know, you are rolling 3" off the ground everywhere you go.

I would make the recommendation to not final weld the bag mounts until the drive-shaft is in place and all the angles are verified. A couple degree change to the rear (if necessary) will throw a wrench into the bag angle.

Looking at the pic I might slightly lessen the angle, as it looks a little more exaggerated at full extension, but pretty level at full compression. You will not spend much time at full extension.... but I think it could be tweaked a hair.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

With the amount of travel and the design of the trailing arm suspension, there is going to be a little bit of pinion angle change. With this change, the bag position will also change as the axle rotates and moves fore/aft.

We always set them up so that the bag is neutral or close to it at ride height. The problem is that ride height on an air suspension can change depending on ones mood that day.

That's why in our instructions we suggest setting a little angle into the lower plate at ride height (frame 5" off the ground), and then cycling the suspension to confirm and or adjust if necessary. This will allow the angle to be less drastic as the truck's suspension compresses.... because we all know that once you get comfortable with a 5" ride height it won't be low enough.... next thing you know, you are rolling 3" off the ground everywhere you go.

I would make the recommendation to not final weld the bag mounts until the drive-shaft is in place and all the angles are verified. A couple degree change to the rear (if necessary) will throw a wrench into the bag angle.

Looking at the pic I might slightly lessen the angle, as it looks a little more exaggerated at full extension, but pretty level at full compression. You will not spend much time at full extension.... but I think it could be tweaked a hair.

Thanks Nate, because of the roads around here, we'll be sticking to a 5" ride height, . When you are talking about adjusting the pinion angle, I'm assuming you are refereing to raising the trailing arms up a hole in the trailing arm crossmember. Also, can't I adjust the pinion angle by raising the carrier bearing?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Thanks Nate, because of the roads around here, we'll be sticking to a 5" ride height, . When you are talking about adjusting the pinion angle, I'm assuming you are refereing to raising the trailing arms up a hole in the trailing arm crossmember. Also, can't I adjust the pinion angle by raising the carrier bearing?

Typically we don't need to shim or adjust the angle at the rear diff. There have been some instances where it was necessary (or easier) to add a shim and change the rear pinion angle (the two piece driveshaft can become a little difficult to dial in), and if so, out comes the grinder.

On the extreme kit you need to keep the front trailing arm pivot in the lowest hole on the trailing arm x-member.

Nate