let me guess: do it again

[Gregmaz]

Trying to do the right thing... Live & learn... Eatin my own bull@#% yeah...

Started as a broken bleeder, then the fittings wouldn t come off, so new lines as well...
Got it on stands, redoing the whole rear brakes, looking at the rear differential: flushed it plus new gasket... So far so good. Only as I finished the thought of servicing the wheel bearings occured to me. Not before. Yep...

Do I really have to loose this new gasket & new gear oil in the differential as to be able to get to the wheel bearings by unlocking & sliding the shafts on each side of the diff?.
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[brad_man_72]

Wouldn't hurt to ditch those heated springs while you're back there.
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[Sammy]

Yes C-Clip is behind the cover it needs to be removed. Also you are also going to need a slide hammer to pull the axles. Not a cheap one heavy one. Then take the axle with the bearing to the parts store for removal n installation of the new bearing. If you have a grove where your old bearing ran inside the axle housing no fret. The parts guy at a NAPA can hook you up with a offset bearing by sizing it. I dunno if there is any truth to it but heard not to rotate the drive shaft after you pull the axles out. Could be BS but I didn't when i did mine. Good Luck. Like brad said change those brake springs out so your finished with this adventure.

[Sammy]

You can get by without the gasket on the cover if you use black RTV high temp and allow overnight cure after you reinstall it before you re-lub. As long as the cover is straight with a good clean edge with out dings.

[hayhauler71]

Originally Posted by Sammy

Yes C-Clip is behind the cover it needs to be removed. Also you are also going to need a slide hammer to pull the axles. Not a cheap one heavy one. Then take the axle with the bearing to the parts store for removal n installation of the new bearing. If you have a grove where your old bearing ran inside the axle housing no fret. The parts guy at a NAPA can hook you up with a offset bearing by sizing it. I dunno if there is any truth to it but heard not to rotate the drive shaft after you pull the axles out. Could be BS but I didn't when i did mine. Good Luck. Like brad said change those brake springs out so your finished with this adventure.

If you turn the drive shaft with the cross shaft removed the spider gears and washers will rotate out of the carrier not a big deal they can be put back in with no problems

[Gregmaz]

Got all u can heat springs & pins & washers & whatnots in the rebuild kit. New cylinders new drums new rear brake lines new e brake cables - the real reason it all started, no e brake because the lines were rusted frozen.
I saw some auto adjusters for sale & was wondering id they d fit a 67.

U guys think the oil is toast? I was a tad short on this oil with special additive for limited slip & wanted to top it off with a can of reg. 80W90 that has been sitting without a cap ( who's fault?).
When I saw the juice that came out of the diff. It made me think twice.about turkish coffee & how happy I was not to have to mess with the gears.
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[Gregmaz]

When you say heavy slide hammer, > 5#?
U can t buff a turd: the truck is alongside a wall with 2 ft clearance.
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[Tx Firefighter]

What he was saying about the slide hammer is that the bearing fits pretty snugly up into the axle housing. You have to get something behind it and hammer it out.

I have one of these. It's meant for pulling seals, but you can usually get the bearings out with it too. If that doesn't work, off to the parts store to rent their axle puller kit.

[TBONE1964]

Here are my thoughts on your situation:

Is there anything wrong with the bearings now? Are either one of the axle shaft seals leaking? If not don't worry about all of this.

If you do happen to get the usually broken pin out of the carrier that hold the cross shaft, then you need to push each axle shaft in toward the housing to get the c clips removed. At this time the axle shafts will slide out by pulling them with your hands. No puller or special tool is required. The axle bearings on your rear end are pressed in the housing and not on the axle with the axle seal in front of the bearing. I have used a long piece of pipe and ran through the other side with a hammer to push the bearings out. There is also a tool that attaches to a slid hammer that will help.

I can tell from your photos that you have c-clip style rear axles. There are axles with no c-clips that have the bearing and seal pressed on the axle. That style has a 4 bolt flange that bolts through the brake backing plate and to the axle housing. That style requires a press to change the bearings.

Like I said, unless you have a problem with a bearing or seal, don't worry about it now.

Just my thoughts.

[Sammy]

Of course before I would just replace those axle bearings I would check them for play using force up n down left and right. If they have none leave them alone unless they are leaking on to the shoes when pointed down hill. If you have a limited slip without the C-clips which is possible, you may luck out. Personally never dealt with that type before. So maybe someone can school you in that department.

[Gregmaz]

No leaks.
Anyway, the wall beeing that close there would be no other way but to put the wheels back on, roll the honorable rust bucket back a few 20 yards & jack up on nice gravel.
So no messing with the bearings.

Should I top off the rear diff. with normal 80W90 (UNCAPPED)?

My wife says thank you for helping
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[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by Gregmaz

No leaks.
Anyway, the wall beeing that close there would be no other way but to put the wheels back on, roll the honorable rust bucket back a few 20 yards & jack up on nice gravel.
So no messing with the bearings.

Should I top off the rear diff. with normal 80W90 (UNCAPPED)?

My wife says thank you for helping
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Anything that sat around uncapped will have water in it. Do NOT use it. Go get the right stuff.

And I agree on the bearings, if they aren't leaking and there isn't any play, leave them alone.