Rust treatment

[Mr.Hyde]

Ok so I'm looking into rust treatments and coatings. What I want to do is coat the inside of the panels and under the fenders and cab to prevent rust. Two products I have been looking into is rust mort and por15 can anyone give me some advice how to avoid making the huge trip to the sandblasted multiple times by using a rust converter or another product? I've even heard of vinegar and water in a 50/50 mixture? I know a wire wheel wil be involved at some point.
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[Wrenchbender Ret]

I use Rustoleum Rusty metal primer. It is tough & lasts a long time. You can color coat it after it flashes over or the next day.

[chevyman91]

I have heard a lot of got things of POR 15 I don't know if its exactly what your looking for but it won't hurt to do some research. You can paint over the rust P.O.R.
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[knomadd]

I've been using Eastwood's Rust Converter. It needs about 48 hours to top coat to propperly "convert" the rust. This is my first vehicle using the product so I can't speak for it's longevity, but it does seem to cover and "convert" it to a black surface pretty well. You have to paint over it to complete the process.

[myyamr7]

I havn't used it yet, but I bought Rust bullet, which was suggested a few times by members when i asked the same question.
http://www.rustbullet.com/?source=ad...FUZV4AodA24Acg

No matter what you use, there is still a good amount of prep work that should be done...I wouldn't just paint over the rust.
I've been sanding and wire wheeling my frame for the past week, I plan to paint with the rust bullet tomorrow

[RHGuyettejr]

For what it is worth I have used both rust bullet and POR-15. Rust bullet is a lot thicker and although it can be painted over sands smooth harder (unless they have changed their formula because I used it about 5yrs ago). POR-15 takes a little more prep, but definitely eats the rust away so long as it is surface. I recommend wire brushing it at a minimum, or sandblasting if you can before applying, even though this is probably what you are trying to avoid. Once applied the POR-15 dries like paint and is easy to prime/paint over. Has a few different acid treatment steps (I think 2 prior to applying the sealer), but has held up on the floor boards I used it on for a few years now. I used it on the interior because the sponge on the carpet got wet and the floors started rusting inside out. Hope that helps a bit.

[ecgate]

If you use por15 you need to go above and beyond when doing your prep work. Other wise you have just wasted your money. But if you prep it correctly por15 is extremely tuff. Just my 2cents.

[Mr.Hyde]

I appreciate all the input my basic plan was to knock off all the loose crap with a wire wheel then check for any pin holes with a flashlight hit it with converter or por15 not sure of the best approach. I'm sure if I posted some pictures it would help with a visual. Still too cold here for that step but it's going on the list of steps to do.
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[elf w/capital T]

Yes, por15 is extremely rad, strong and thick, just make sure you prep the metal well first. Just like any body work, the paint isnt jack if its not prepped well.

Ive done the entire half of my cab floor, having tools and other metal patches in, sliding around, ive not haad one scratch past paint.


But for temp jobs, i use rustoleum heavy metal, and the rust converter, but like said before, clean,prep, clean the metal first!

[Mr.Hyde]

So I've asked around the weld shop guys who have done cars etc. they say sand blasting is bed bet for frame up.. Everyone agree?
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[bcj67chevy]

ive used the kyb coatings stuff. Seems to work well so far. What is nice about is is that is doesn't just cover over the rust you can see that is dissolved most of the the rust and puts a white zinc phosphate coating over the rest.
It's a 3 part system, 1.cleaner/degreaser 2. rust blaster 3. Rust sealer.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/System-Sampler.html
link is for there sample kit, but they have a lot of differnt ways to order it.

I used a discount code : Samba
Code might still be good, 10% off

[BruthaMan]

If you're going to blast it first, I would follow up with some epoxy primer, then follow up with POR-15. Did that on my '78 build several years ago. We sprayed the POR-15, reduced with paint thinner, using an hold harbor freight (cheap) gun.

When dealing with POR-15, wear an old long sleeve shirt and rubber gloves. I've yet to open a can of POR-15, no matter how careful, and not manage to get some on me. It it gets on your skin for more than a few minutes, plan on wearing it for the next 3-4 days. It's not coming off until it wears off your skin.

Some tough stuff, to be sure. I got it on my finger nails and looked like an old man going through a "goth" identity crisis!

[Bassman53]

I like the POR 15. I put it on the bottom and floors of my 57 Chevy more that 16 years ago and it's still holding up very well. As everyone else said prep is the most important step. Just follow the instructions on the POR 15 and you will be OK.

[96blazr]

Originally Posted by myyamr7

I havn't used it yet, but I bought Rust bullet, which was suggested a few times by members when i asked the same question.
http://www.rustbullet.com/?source=ad...FUZV4AodA24Acg

No matter what you use, there is still a good amount of prep work that should be done...I wouldn't just paint over the rust.
I've been sanding and wire wheeling my frame for the past week, I plan to paint with the rust bullet tomorrow

RustBullet is the truth!! Myyamr keep us posted.

Mr. Hyde, Rustbullet is your best value and exactly what you need. I've used it before and for what your wanting to use it on, it is perfect. I used it inside my front fender well below the battery area on my truck and sanded and painted the area. That was 10 years ago. I look at it once in a while, but it hasn't changed at all. Highly recommend Rustbullet. www.rustbullet.com

[WIDESIDE72]

I prefer rust bulle for applying to surface rust. Por 15 is better for freshly blasted steel. On a related note, has anyone used evapororust? I see Dale from American restoration and Danny from counting cars hawking it.
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[myyamr7]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hyde

So I've asked around the weld shop guys who have done cars etc. they say sand blasting is bed bet for frame up.. Everyone agree?
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Sand blasting is the best way for sure. However, if you don't strip the frame 100%, remove all the factory rivets, nuts, bolts, frame plates, crossmembers, etc, you still have spots where rust is hiding. Kinda makes the effort of sandblasting a frame that's still together, not worth it.

[elf w/capital T]

At a point unless you got your frame from an original California owner.... ha

[elf w/capital T]

And yes, por15 doesn't even like coming off the skin.

[WIDESIDE72]

IMO, it is actually "not worth it" to completely disassemble a frame to blast it. Most of the reason for blasting and painting/coating a frame is cosmetic (at least here in Texas and other states where no salt is used on roads). My dad brothers and I have restored several trucks and have never stripped the frame completely apart. When we painted the frames, I am sure we went to more effort than the factory did to be sure everything was covered. The frames we used had made it 30-40 yrs with what little paint GM sprayed on them, then the truck was used as a "TRUCK". I am sure they will last 100 more leading a pampered life of no mud, no sitting outside in temp and climate changes, etc.
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