Pristine engine bay in '66 Chevy C10 with 327 & factory A/C

[theastronaut]

Thanks for posting those pics 60-66! Looks like a very close match to the 292 cover. If needed, the paint could be tinted to an exact match- that was the closest matching modern code available. I do not know the code- it's stored in the paint shop's computer. I'll find out the code when I buy the paint for my own engine and post it here.

When I paint my engine I will spray a light coat of PPG DPLF epoxy, thinned 10%. It stays "open" for a week so it can be top coated without the need for sanding. For paint I'll use PPG Omni, either enamel or urethane with hardener. I think the combo of the epoxy biting into the metal, then the chemical adhesion between the epoxy and paint will be hard to beat. Using primer and paint with hardener is the only way to go, gas and oil won't affect it. Much better gloss and coverage too.

[60-66]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Thanks for posting those pics 60-66! Looks like a very close match to the 292 cover. If needed, the paint could be tinted to an exact match- that was the closest matching modern code available. I do not know the code- it's stored in the paint shop's computer. I'll find out the code when I buy the paint for my own engine and post it here.

When I paint my engine I will spray a light coat of PPG DPLF epoxy, thinned 10%. It stays "open" for a week so it can be top coated without the need for sanding. For paint I'll use PPG Omni, either enamel or urethane with hardener. I think the combo of the epoxy biting into the metal, then the chemical adhesion between the epoxy and paint will be hard to beat. Using primer and paint with hardener is the only way to go, gas and oil won't affect it. Much better gloss and coverage too.

I guess I never did ask this but you may have just answered, is this paint card you did the actual paint from the can I sent or ? Im still thinking more blue tint to get it to match that bracket or something to darken it slightly.

Mark, Astronaut makes a great point that I left out, the hardner, it does make the difference.......this is why I dont paint, leave it to the pros, you get what you pay for........

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by 60-66

I guess I never did ask this but you may have just answered, is this paint card you did the actual paint from the can I sent or ? Im still thinking more blue tint to get it to match that bracket or something to darken it slightly.

Mark, Astronaut makes a great point that I left out, the hardner, it does make the difference.......this is why I dont paint, leave it to the pros, you get what you pay for........

The paint on the test card was straight from your NOS can after shaking to mix it fully. I didn't add hardener, that's why it's wrinkled up- enamel takes forever to dry. Tinting it is possible to get it to match closer.

I primed/painted the engine block on my daily driver VW with DPLF and urethane single stage with hardener and 10k miles later it still looks like I just sprayed it.

[Lugnutz65]

I've been encouraged to add some pics to this thread. Just last week I pulled the cab off my 1965 C10 Step. It's unmolested and I am the 3rd owner. It has 88K miles and I am convinced that the drivetrain has never been touched.

These photos show what I found on the bellhousing after I removed years of grease and dirt with Dawn dish detergent.

These were taken with a flash but I will get more photos this weekend in the sunlight to show the color better.

Most of the factory paint is gone from the 230ci engine.

The truck was built in Baltimore and has spent the last 45 years here in SC.

BEFORE



AFTER

[60-66]

That's really a great example of bellhousing overspray there Lugnutz65. Thank you for the efforts !!