Exhaust recommendations? 305 K10

[motornut]

Originally Posted by cam-camaro

I thought they ran off a vacumn, possibly to the canister in the engine compartment. There is a line( VAC I'm assuming) that runs from the front differential to right above the canister, but it plugged off ( and always has been, even when the 4x4 previously worked). Maybe I'm missing a wire connection somewhere for the Auto-hubs. Any Ideas? The 4x4 worked before I rebuilt the motor, so I'm sure something is unplugged somewhere. The truck will still pull through the differential the hubs just won't lock.

That line is a vent, for it
I'd check if the hubs are actually locking
Did you do work on the hubs
They can even loosen up /gap/ cap looks pops out, can push it in by hand?
Posted via Mobile Device

[cam-camaro]

Originally Posted by motornut

That line is a vent, for it
I'd check if the hubs are actually locking
Did you do work on the hubs
They can even loosen up /gap/ cap looks pops out, can push it in by hand?
Posted via Mobile Device

No they're pretty solid no give when I try to push on them. Their automatic hubs, is there a wire connection for them anywhere?


And how would I test the hubs out to see if their still good?

[motornut]

Originally Posted by cam-camaro

No they're pretty solid no give when I try to push on them. Their automatic hubs, is there a wire connection for them anywhere?


And how would I test the hubs out to see if their still good?

Any time I've had to replaced a broken one , its been full of chunks
I've had had auto and manual hubs stolen right off the truck
And noticed some appear now not to need a C clip /snap ring thing
Have you had them apart / repacked
Posted via Mobile Device

[cam-camaro]

Originally Posted by motornut

Any time I've had to replaced a broken one , its been full of chunks
I've had had auto and manual hubs stolen right off the truck
And noticed some appear now not to need a C clip /snap ring thing
Have you had them apart / repacked
Posted via Mobile Device

No I haven't, I've never had to mess with hubs before and I wanted to get some advice before I went off venturing into unknown territory.

[cmax87v3500]

single 3 inch with your choice of muffler

[piecesparts]

Everyone for their own, but when I built my 383 stroker engine, I wanted to do it right (so to speak), I talked to a flowmaster tech rep and from his input, I built my exhaust system and it has worked out great. First of all, figure what you want to do for driving, most of mine would be highway with some city involved. From that he told me that I should keep the size of the pipes so that they helped and not hindered the exhaust process. For my engine and my driving 3" exhaust was to large, so we went with a 2 1/" size on the pipes. I am running long tube headers with 3" collectors necked down to dual 2 1/2" pipes/with an "H" pipe at the rear of the tranny. From there I am running two pipes to what used to be Flowmaster mufflers (Now they are stainless steel Magnaflow mufflers) and then over the axle back to two exhaust pipes out the rear of the truck.

This allows the exhaust to NOT become lazy, which would hinder the exhaust flow by causing turbulence in the pipes. It is the cooling of the exhaust that helps to pull the exhaust gasses out of the cylinders and the cooling creates a slight vacuum in that process.

If you use headers, be sure to put the header bolts into the head with teflon tape on the bolts. This trick will keep thebolts tight and you won't have to keep tightening them as you drive. It will also make taking them back out easy, too.

[Duster]

I am offended that it took 16 posts before anyone go the "Black Sheep" reference...

Row-adds... Rooooooaidds.

[99monte]

Originally Posted by cam-camaro

Heres a picture of the truck. By the way, I want to refrain from starting a new thread so hopefully you guys can help me. There is slight knocking/ticking sound coming from the engine bay and underneath the truck. I highly doubt it's a rod bearing( I replaced them ). The truck is a 1986 K10 305.

I'm thinking it may be a knock sensor( I don't know if this truck is suppose to have one or not)

Valve leash( I set it before I started the motor after the rebuilt, and it doesn't sound like a lifter, but then again, I'm an amateur).

Or possibly a loose bolt on the flywheel or flexplate.

Any ideas on how to diagnose this sound?

Put a stethoscope on the mechanical fuel pump,a worn out pump sounds alot like a lifter noise.Pump pivot wears out eventually the pump won't have enough stroke to provide fuel.

[Nouseforaname]

Originally Posted by cam-camaro

Thanks I appreciate the advice! I'll be sure to do that. On another note, do you happen to know where the vacumn hose for the 4x4 hubs goes? It's automatic hubs so I know they run off a vacumn, I'm just not sure where. The 4x4 differentials work, the hubs just won't lock. I'm 90% sure it's a vacumn hose I left off when I rebuilt the motor I just don't know where.

Auto hubs are not controlled by vacuum or electricity, they engauge when the front axles are turned.

You can test them by turning the front drive shaft by hand.

They also disengauge and re engage when you change directions(as when your stuck and trying to get out), thats what usually kills them.

Don't pack the auto hub itself with grease as this will prevent them from engauging.

[ElGracho]

The original poster hasn't posted for three weeks. We went from exhaust to an exhaust leak to talking about hubs. I'm not even sure if there is a question any more?