rear trailing arm problems - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72kool · 03-16-2013, 04:38 PM

I'm working on my '72 gmc c2500 custom camper with rear coils. Trying to replace a broken rear trailing ARM.I bout have it off but its pretty rusted on.anybody replace these and have any tips on the whole process? Bout got it off just wondering if there where any handy tips to be had. Thanks

BlackedOut67shorty · 03-16-2013, 04:41 PM

Lube, big socket set 3/4 drive ratchet,cheater bar,bfh and chisel will be your friend

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Shyguy · 03-16-2013, 05:07 PM

Block front wheels, jack up back of truck and put jack stands under the frame.
Jack up rear end with floor jack a little.

Soak the large bolts and nuts at the cross memeber with PB Blaster. Soak the u-bolts and nuts at the rear axle with PB Blaster.

darush01 · 03-16-2013, 08:05 PM

Plenty of wd40 pb blaster and everything else that will free it up and when you get the bolts out a good hammer comes in handy
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Howitzer · 03-17-2013, 12:49 AM

To hell with the U Bolt nuts, mine were so rusted and caked i took the grinder out and cut the bolts off right next to the top of the trailing arm where it meets the axel. New ones are like $16.

BlackedOut67shorty · 03-17-2013, 02:08 AM

I've always thought I'd snap mine off, but no it just screached at me like the titanic lol. But its nice not to just grind it off cause imo opinion it makes it a lil easier to get the old u bolt out.... But a mother!@#$%* to get the actual axle off the trailing arm. The 3/4 inch drive ratchet set from Pittsburg at harbor freight works fairly well for the price and you will probably not break the suckers.. and if you somehow manage to do so they got a lifetime warranty. A tool that will definitely pay for itself in time and labor.
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brad_man_72 · 03-17-2013, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Howitzer

To hell with the U Bolt nuts, mine were so rusted and caked i took the grinder out and cut the bolts off right next to the top of the trailing arm where it meets the axel. New ones are like $16.

Another vote for cut the ubolt. Way too much effort to reuse a rusty bolt, if your trailing arms are beyond repair I can't imagine the ubolts coming off in anything that could be considered a reuseable condition.
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eldogg · 03-17-2013, 12:26 PM

Torch!

72kool · 03-17-2013, 01:15 PM

its off!!! haha it took us 3 hours and and alot of elbow grease but got it off last night and the new one on.we decided to call it a night after it got bout 35 out and an hour of snow.today we just have to hook the drive shaft back up and and put the nuts on the front bolts and we are drivable again

we were going to use a torch but didnt have one at hand to our use.we ended up useing an air hammer and seperating the trailing arm and breaking up the rust. what happened was the trailing arm rusted itself to the u-bolt but after breaking it apart the u-bolt looks new. il post some pics of the old and "new" arm later tonight. thanks for all the help!

darush01 · 03-17-2013, 09:30 PM

yeah I cut mine off too, just be careful on the test drive the guy I had helping me accidentally nicked the brake line and i went to move the truck and lost my back brakes

72kool · 03-17-2013, 09:57 PM

thats not good haha. well its home now! i gotthe drive shaft in and the rest of the bolts tightend and she is up and running again

she had been sitting for bout six months now so she has a few things that need some attention, such as the drivers door handle quit working from the outside. anybody deal with this or know what is wrong?

03-16-2013, 04:38 PM	#1
72kool Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: kearney nebraska Posts: 613	rear trailing arm problems I'm working on my '72 gmc c2500 custom camper with rear coils. Trying to replace a broken rear trailing ARM.I bout have it off but its pretty rusted on.anybody replace these and have any tips on the whole process? Bout got it off just wondering if there where any handy tips to be had. Thanks

03-16-2013, 04:41 PM	#2
BlackedOut67shorty Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: error 404 location not found Posts: 816	Re: rear trailing arm problems Lube, big socket set 3/4 drive ratchet,cheater bar,bfh and chisel will be your friend Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 1995 s10 blazer 4.3 1967 c10 350/350 fleet short 1993 s10 blazer 4.3l 4l60 RIP 6/20/14 2000 mercury sable Thats a how I roll Last edited by BlackedOut67shorty; 03-16-2013 at 04:45 PM. Reason: grammer

03-16-2013, 05:07 PM	#3
Shyguy Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Southeast Missouri Posts: 2,436	Re: rear trailing arm problems Block front wheels, jack up back of truck and put jack stands under the frame. Jack up rear end with floor jack a little. Soak the large bolts and nuts at the cross memeber with PB Blaster. Soak the u-bolts and nuts at the rear axle with PB Blaster. __________________ '67 Chevy C-20 short stepper - build complete, 454/SM-465. '75 C-30 Single Cab DRW-350 small block/NP-435. '77 GMC-6500 Dump Truck, 427 Tall Deck. '92 GMC K-3500 Duallie, 454/4L80E.

03-16-2013, 08:05 PM	#4
darush01 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Louisville ky Posts: 398	Re: rear trailing arm problems Plenty of wd40 pb blaster and everything else that will free it up and when you get the bolts out a good hammer comes in handy Posted via Mobile Device

03-17-2013, 12:49 AM	#5
Howitzer Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 135	Re: rear trailing arm problems To hell with the U Bolt nuts, mine were so rusted and caked i took the grinder out and cut the bolts off right next to the top of the trailing arm where it meets the axel. New ones are like $16.

03-17-2013, 02:08 AM	#6
BlackedOut67shorty Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: error 404 location not found Posts: 816	Re: rear trailing arm problems I've always thought I'd snap mine off, but no it just screached at me like the titanic lol. But its nice not to just grind it off cause imo opinion it makes it a lil easier to get the old u bolt out.... But a mother!@#$%* to get the actual axle off the trailing arm. The 3/4 inch drive ratchet set from Pittsburg at harbor freight works fairly well for the price and you will probably not break the suckers.. and if you somehow manage to do so they got a lifetime warranty. A tool that will definitely pay for itself in time and labor. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 1995 s10 blazer 4.3 1967 c10 350/350 fleet short 1993 s10 blazer 4.3l 4l60 RIP 6/20/14 2000 mercury sable Thats a how I roll Last edited by BlackedOut67shorty; 03-17-2013 at 02:19 AM.

03-17-2013, 12:26 PM	#8
eldogg Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Mooresville NC/Gainesville GA Posts: 499	Re: rear trailing arm problems Torch! __________________ Eric Evans Queen City Shop Truck http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post6139834 66 GMC http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=543110

03-17-2013, 01:15 PM	#9
72kool Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: kearney nebraska Posts: 613	Re: rear trailing arm problems its off!!! haha it took us 3 hours and and alot of elbow grease but got it off last night and the new one on.we decided to call it a night after it got bout 35 out and an hour of snow.today we just have to hook the drive shaft back up and and put the nuts on the front bolts and we are drivable again we were going to use a torch but didnt have one at hand to our use.we ended up useing an air hammer and seperating the trailing arm and breaking up the rust. what happened was the trailing arm rusted itself to the u-bolt but after breaking it apart the u-bolt looks new. il post some pics of the old and "new" arm later tonight. thanks for all the help!

03-17-2013, 09:30 PM	#10
darush01 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Louisville ky Posts: 398	Re: rear trailing arm problems yeah I cut mine off too, just be careful on the test drive the guy I had helping me accidentally nicked the brake line and i went to move the truck and lost my back brakes

03-17-2013, 09:57 PM	#11
72kool Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: kearney nebraska Posts: 613	Re: rear trailing arm problems thats not good haha. well its home now! i gotthe drive shaft in and the rest of the bolts tightend and she is up and running again she had been sitting for bout six months now so she has a few things that need some attention, such as the drivers door handle quit working from the outside. anybody deal with this or know what is wrong?



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