Wipers

[Ackattack]

I have a couple of issues with my wipers.

First, they don't always come on. I'm guessing its the switch on the turn signal lever. Is this common?

Next is they don't park in the right position, they're high, and therefore travel too far, hitting the a pillar. I just got the wiper arms, but you can't really change the clocking of them. Any suggestions?

[Mark S]

Ackattack, Take a look here http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...php?tid/249096

should help with part of your problem. Good Luck, Mark

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by Mark S

Ackattack, Take a look here http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...php?tid/249096

should help with part of your problem. Good Luck, Mark

Awesome.....that's why I posted up here rather than just spending money....sounds like a pretty easy fix.

[no2tracks]

My '94 wipers would work intermittently and stop wherever in their travel, then start again. I replaced the circuit board in the wiper control box on the engine side of the firewall. Never had a problem with them since.

[Mark S]

The problem with those wiper circuit boards is RARELY the boards themselves. It's where the connectors are soldered on. Age, vibration, temperature swings, can cause the solder joints to fail, and it's most times impossible to see. Ten minutes with a soldering iron and you're back in business. One more thing to consider, the OEM part is most likely a far better part than what you can get today... Who knows where they were made.
Mark

[Boog]

Hey Ack.
And as far as the travel of the wipers it is adjustable. Remove the plastic cowl screen to gain access to the wiper motor. Look for the two nuts holding the linkage to the motor. Loosen the nuts and slide the linkage one way or the other to adjust the wipers back down on the windshield. Easy peasy.

[HMAJNG]

Originally Posted by Mark S

The problem with those wiper circuit boards is RARELY the boards themselves. It's where the connectors are soldered on. Age, vibration, temperature swings, can cause the solder joints to fail, and it's most times impossible to see. Ten minutes with a soldering iron and you're back in business. One more thing to consider, the OEM part is most likely a far better part than what you can get today... Who knows where they were made.
Mark

I have been told the same thing by someotherguy on ct.
I just did this diy, and was about to purchase a new board, but when I was told about the new boards being inferior to the OEM board, I went back and soldered again.
Because the cracks are so minute, you really need to do a good solder...not difficult, just be sure to cover the old solder joints thoroughly.
On my second go around....it's all good!
Saved me some bucks!

someotherguy and Chevytech are great resources!

[Ackattack]

got the circuit board resoldered, and when I turned the switch, the worked like a charm. Didn't go out for a spin and ensure they work all time, but I assume they will.

I'll have to adjust the travel later.