1971 Chevy pick up

[syncityj]

Hey everyone,
I am new to classic chevy trucks but I am hoping to end that this week. I found a 1971 pick up. I am in las vegas but the vehicle came from Colorado. I am going to look at it today and was wondering what I should look at. Problem areas for rust, different, over looked areas, stuff like that. supposedly the motor and trans were rebuilt, but I will be waiting on paperwork before I believe that. On that note, it has a 283 V8, did these years come with this size motor?

According to the owner, its been in his family since new, and he has other projects taking up his time. I am just looking for some information to help me in negotiation and to protect me from biting off more then I can chew, as I would be purchasing this as a daily driver.

I have been looking at replacement parts, and it all seems faily cheap, but I know that the parts list can add up and really take a toll on me so the more information from you guys the better.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Lattimer]

I don't think the 283 was available in 1971. I think the 307 and 350 were the small block choices.

Rust will be in the floorboards, rockers, cab corners. Check above the windshield both inside and out as well. Inner fender wells (especially on the RH side) and top of the firewall can be problem areas, as well as the radiator support.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Keep us posted ..Curious to see the Truck

[Chance72]

Check for rust on the drip rail and roof above windshield (rust could go inside)and where the top of the doors me the cab. All those are a pain to fix as I've seen...
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[Tinkermc]

get under it and look up.

[syncityj]

If the 286 didn't come with it, then let me ask you this. I've got a set of long tubes from a buddy from his olf truck with a 350, will I have any problem bolting them to the 286?

If I do get this truck, I will be here probably too often, looking for ideas, and posting pictures and I make this truck my own.

So aside from rust, do these trucks have any issues with braking or anything? What about the fuel tank, pump or lines? The tank is still in the cab, how do I fold the seat forward so I can get to the tank and check it out if the seat moves forward that is? I'd rather sound like an idiot here, then look like an idiot to the seller. Basically, I am looking for a truck thats going to be reliable and start everyday, not overly concerned with the way the truck looks (for now)

[SCHRUMGMC]

What color is ?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Tinkermc

get under it and look up.

Make sure you have a good strong light with you. I always take a good size piece of cardboard with me, makes it easier to slide underneath it.

LockDoc

[syncityj]

its like an faded medium green body with a white top. I hate green, usually, but I actually like it.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by syncityj

If the 286 didn't come with it, then let me ask you this. I've got a set of long tubes from a buddy from his olf truck with a 350, will I have any problem bolting them to the 286?

If I do get this truck, I will be here probably too often, looking for ideas, and posting pictures and I make this truck my own.

So aside from rust, do these trucks have any issues with braking or anything? What about the fuel tank, pump or lines? The tank is still in the cab, how do I fold the seat forward so I can get to the tank and check it out if the seat moves forward that is? I'd rather sound like an idiot here, then look like an idiot to the seller. Basically, I am looking for a truck thats going to be reliable and start everyday, not overly concerned with the way the truck looks (for now)

Most small block Chevy stuff fits everything from 283 to 400. Big thing in the truck is if it fits around the clutch/shift linkage (if standard trans).

Brakes will be all drums, so its basic stuff. Worst case you have to rebuild them and maybe run new lines, but all the parts are readily available. No worse than any other vehicle.

Gas tanks are not a big deal, I just replaced mine due to some leaks. pretty easy job, and the tanks was like $150 or so. If the truck sat for a long time without running you will want to drain and clean out the fuel system. Some seats fold forward, but most do not. Mine doesn't.

Keep in mind its an old vehicle. If you are looking for perfect, you won't find it. Some work will always be required to make a reliable vehicle. Be prepared for that.

[syncityj]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

Most small block Chevy stuff fits everything from 283 to 400. Big thing in the truck is if it fits around the clutch/shift linkage (if standard trans).

Brakes will be all drums, so its basic stuff. Worst case you have to rebuild them and maybe run new lines, but all the parts are readily available. No worse than any other vehicle.

Gas tanks are not a big deal, I just replaced mine due to some leaks. pretty easy job, and the tanks was like $150 or so. If the truck sat for a long time without running you will want to drain and clean out the fuel system. Some seats fold forward, but most do not. Mine doesn't.

Keep in mind its an old vehicle. If you are looking for perfect, you won't find it. Some work will always be required to make a reliable vehicle. Be prepared for that.

I am not concerned about making it look pretty, but making it run. As long as it runs well, doesn't over heat, and stops right, then i am fine. I can make it look pretty later. I just want it to be a good runner, at least until each weekend when I can get to fixing it.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by syncityj

I am not concerned about making it look pretty, but making it run. As long as it runs well, doesn't over heat, and stops right, then i am fine. I can make it look pretty later. I just want it to be a good runner, at least until each weekend when I can get to fixing it.

I understood that from your posts. Depending on price, you should still expect to have to fix stuff. I have done very little so far to make my truck pretty, but I have put a ton of $$ into making it right. I do everything myself, but I can't imagine what a shop would have charged for the work I have done.

On any old vehicle, I have come to expect to do a minimum of:

Change all fluids
change fuel filter
Replace belts and hoses
inspect brakes and expect to put on new
fix a lot of f'd up wiring
replace weather seals
replace shocks

That is if nothing is actually wrong with the vehicle.

[landsurvey1]

Take a magnet with you so you can check for bondo spots along the body.
Make sure the vin. # matches the title and check the "spid" list on the glove box inner door. It will tell you how the truck came from the factory. Check and see how the oil and tranny oils look. Try not to let the excitement of buying the truck override you common sense.

[Already Gone]

Good luck with the deal and last but not least, post some pictures whether you buy iy or not.
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[SCHRUMGMC]

Originally Posted by landsurvey1

Take a magnet with you so you can check for bondo spots along the body.
Make sure the vin. # matches the title and check the "spid" list on the glove box inner door. It will tell you how the truck came from the factory. Check and see how the oil and tranny oils look. Try not to let the excitement of buying the truck override you common sense.

What is Bondo Spots ?

[landsurvey1]

It's a body filler to fix dents, the magnet won't stick to it.

[greenmacheene]

Bondo is a body filler that often promotes rust underneath. It's not magnetic so if there's a spot where the magnet falls off it's likely that there's been a repair there.
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[tinsoldier]

Actually if the repair was done properly with welding and skimmed over with a light coat of bondo. The magnet will still stick. It is the shaddy repair job where they just patched the holes with bondo is what you should look out for. Best magnet to test for bondo thickness is use a business card magnet. Don't use the big one, because the big one will stick through thicker bondo.

[MidLifer]

Agree with all the rust advice you've been given. Also that the 283 is not an original engine. Some other potential gotchas to look at, not exactly unique to these trucks but good to know:

- Cab mounts - not a huge expense but they dry out over time.
- Check the steering - ball joints, tie rods, etc - again, even if the joints are tight, grease boots dry out
- Motor/trans mounts
- Depending on how much you care about the truck being "original", look at the frame VIN and the cab VIN (frame VIN is on the drivers' side near the steering box iirc)

Rusty metal definitely sucks, and I bought a desert truck (AZ) to avoid it, but the flip side of dry climates is that plastic and rubber dry out.

A lot of this depends on how much you care - you can get obsessive about stuff like a lot of us and burn through a lot of time and money fixing things or you can just drive your truck and enjoy. I'm in the former camp but working on joining the latter....

[buckskins4ever]

I just want to start by telling you if you like what you see and can afford a repair here and there......buy it. Your going to have rust, it inevitable.
Dont let the term Bondo or Plastic repair, deter you. The best body man out there will always use a skim coat to perfect work. Amount used is what differs from body repair shop or shade tree garage repair. Beware, taking a magnet to a sellers car will PISS HIM OFF!!! I suggest if you are concerned about that body repair work done, ask him before tapping, knocking, or sticking a magnet to any vehicle.

If you piss him off, good luck getting anywhere with negotiating or even buying it at all.

Headers will fit all small blocks chevy's.........but, that does not mean they will fit our trucks. We do have a slight angle issue on the drivers side. Thats why they sell header to fit our trucks specifically.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Any photos yet bud ?

[71chevymike]

Lattimer, I beleave '71 & '72 should have front disc brakes.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by 71chevymike

Lattimer, I beleave '71 & '72 should have front disc brakes.

Brain fart......