Need radiator, clutch and fan but have questions.

[Jayschevy]

I have a 71 350 C10. Currently there's a small leak in the radiator so I'll like to change it out. While doing that I'll also like to add a clutch and fan blade. The PO put a flex fan on the truck that I don't like. My questions are:

- I see on line 2, 3 and 4 row radiators, will they all fit my truck? What's the advantage of one from the other? Aren't the 4 row's bigger?

- Which fan blade would y'all recommend?

- Which clutch would y'all recommend? With a 4 row radiator will there be any clearance issues with a 4 row rad?

Thanks

[PanelDeland]

Radiator rows are a thickness/cooling designation.They will all fit the truck but the mounts are wider for the 4 core.It's a simple swap and a really good idea if you're running a modded engine or A/C.On mine,when I went to a 4 row,I had to get a shorter fan sacer but I'm using a direct drive 6 cyl fan since I have a 250.IIRC all the SBC fan shrouds for these trucks should work.I don't have an answer on the clutch or fan but most SBC with one should work though they may not clear either the rad or the shroud.

[in deep 72]

I put a champion all aluminum radiator in my 72 Blazer. You can pick up a 3 core off Ebay for about $200 or $250 for a 4 core. They were out of 4's when I got mine and had to settle for a 3 core. The only reason I wanted 4 is I'm running a 468BB and wanted all the cooling I could get. The mistake I made was adding 2 12" electric fans right to the radiator without a shroud. Cooled fine while moving, but overheats when sitting still.....That's my project for this week. Cut out some aluminum on a waterjet and making a new shroud with 2 16" electrics. Might look a bit rough, but it's tough to fit 2 16" circles in a space that's 17"x29".

Old setup:
[IMG][/IMG]

New shroud:

[68gmsee]

If truck has a/c or you do light towing and/or hauling a three row would be sufficient. A four row is overkill for normal driving but does give one a better sense of security. I had a two row on my 69 without a/c and never had a problem with overheating even when towing a full size tractor and bush hog with a 16' trailer in the summer.

If you are getting a fan in a salvage yard you need to be aware if the fan is clockwise or CC turning and check the clutch for signs of leaks. It should be fairly stiff when cold.

Another thing to be aware of if you are using a fan from an older engine is the water pump bolt mounting. On my six cylinder the original water pump bolt pattern is narrower. Most newer water pumps are either drilled for both patterns or have the wider pattern mounting holes.

[Lattimer]

I got a 4-row through Auto Zone for under $200. Put in the wider mounts and rubber pieces and it fits nice. PO had a universal aluminum 4-row, which cooled nicely but leaked like a sieve.

I've never seen too much cooling, so I can't see doing less than a 4-row.

[dhaymaker]

Whenever the opportunity presents itself, I'll go with the 4-row! If your cooling system works correctly, the thermostat will bring the system to temperature so you won't be running "too cool". But the 4-row will provide the necessary cooling for future, bigger engines, hauling/towing requirements, etc. It just isn't that much more expensive to go with the better 4-row units! Just my $.02!!

[Stocker]

Even if a 4-row may not be absolutely necessary, it makes sense to me to get one if you are replacing your radiator anyway. Cost is minimal, and it will not "over-cool" the engine. Better to have more cooling than not enough.

I would try to locate a junkyard clutch fan. Just make sure the fan diameter, bolt pattern, and depth will fit. If you end up buying a new clutch unit, the OEM fan will still be a good thing to have. My stock fan is an 18", seven-blade fan and works great -- if you can find one I think you'll like it.