Drum brakes all around

[NC67Chev]

Originally Posted by JOJABOY

So I think I will try bleeding them out and seeing what the fluid looks like down in the pipes. Will have to update with my results.

As far as adding a booster to an all disc system.....How much is entailed with the installation? Do I need to re run the lines from the master cylinder or is it as simple as bolting it in and then change the pedal rod?

I'm assuming you meant to say: adding a booster to an all 'drum' system? If so, all you need is the booster, booster brackets, vacuum source and pedal push rod. You can just move your master cylinder out from the firewall to make room for the booster.
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[JOJABOY]

Originally Posted by NC67Chev

I'm assuming you meant to say: adding a booster to an all 'drum' system? If so, all you need is the booster, booster brackets, vacuum source and pedal push rod. You can just move your master cylinder out from the firewall to make room for the booster.
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I did mean to say drums. What model year booster would work with 69 drum set up?
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[NC67Chev]

67 - 72
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[PanelDeland]

I'll just suggest you think about this for a minute.While I agree that the drums work well when in good shape,you do live in LA.The drum brakes will never work as well as the 4wheel disc on that Beamer that just cut you off and slammed on his brakes.If you spend the money on repairing your drum system,you may still find that they fade some in traffic(the biggest drawback to drums in my opinion).I personally would do the drum repairs but start looking for a disc donor or saving for a kit to swap.I only say this because of your location,if you liked in the middle of nowhere then the drums would be the way to go.

[Sixshooter44]

I went 9.60 with a nova that had 4 manual drums on it, just rebuild what you got. A complete kit for each end is around $200
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[Tx Firefighter]

Every single drum brake truck I've ever built needed new front hoses. I've literally seen them swell completely shut internally which made the front brakes not work at all leaving the rears to do all of the work. I've also seen them swell basically shut to where pressure would pass through them when you pushed the pedal, but not flow back when the pedal is released, causing the brakes to stick on.

I'm not exaggerating, I've seen it a dozen times with my own eyes. New hoses are super cheap to buy at the parts store.
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[69GWC]

I was thinking of that on mine, think I will stop monday and get some new hose for the front and replace them. I had a 75 that did that same thing swelled shut.
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[SCHRUMGMC]

Whats better Disc or Drum Brakes ?

[69GWC]

Disc are much better IMO.
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[SCHRUMGMC]

Pros an Cons on the Drum Brakes ?

[Tx Firefighter]

They each have their place. There's still plenty of new heavy trucks being made every day with drum brakes. But every passenger vehicle sold in America today has at least front disc brakes.

I convert my trucks to disc brakes because I like their feel and ease of service.
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[SCHRUMGMC]

Oh alright Thanks TX Firefighter

[jocko]

jojaboy - if you'd like to add a booster to your all drum system, I'd suggest getting a hold of CaptainFab. Your current stock system is a dual reservoir drum/drum master cyl with a pressure switch/distrib block. The block is there only to sense pressure in the front/rear drum systems and warn you if you lose 1 system. Anyway - CaptainFab makes a slick bracket to mount your booster fairly close to the firewall. Since you're converting from manual and don't have all the booster bracketry and bellcranks, etc - and the bracket he makes it an easier transition because all of that is eliminated anyway.

If you go that route - highly recommend buying a Booster + master cyl combo FOR A 1969 C20 (make SURE you don't get one for a C10 - line routing may be different). If you buy the combo, you will be assured of proper intermediate pushrod length (between booster and mc). So, the only customizing you'll need is to adjust the length of the pushrod from the pedal to the booster (and it should be adjustable, but you might have to do some lenghtening/shortening, not sure). 60-66 forum is a good place to learn these tricks because they ALL had drums and a single pot master. Many convert to a dual res master and/or add a booster. Anyway, CaptainFab can be a big help. Good luck!

[pritch]

I'm real happy with my powered/drums on my green '68. I went clear through and replaced pretty much everything. Stops quick and straight as a string. But if I had the money I'd switch the front to disc. My Panel project has front discs.

I drive an F-250 company truck during the week and it has 4 wheel disc, and I don't like how it is. If it's raining, they take quite a bit more time to stop than disc/drums or even drum/drum. It's like no brakes at all for the first few heartbeats. Last one was the same way. I don't know if it's a 4 wheel disc thing or a ford thing.

[JOJABOY]

Originally Posted by jocko

jojaboy - if you'd like to add a booster to your all drum system, I'd suggest getting a hold of CaptainFab. Your current stock system is a dual reservoir drum/drum master cyl with a pressure switch/distrib block. The block is there only to sense pressure in the front/rear drum systems and warn you if you lose 1 system. Anyway - CaptainFab makes a slick bracket to mount your booster fairly close to the firewall. Since you're converting from manual and don't have all the booster bracketry and bellcranks, etc - and the bracket he makes it an easier transition because all of that is eliminated anyway.

If you go that route - highly recommend buying a Booster + master cyl combo FOR A 1969 C20 (make SURE you don't get one for a C10 - line routing may be different). If you buy the combo, you will be assured of proper intermediate pushrod length (between booster and mc). So, the only customizing you'll need is to adjust the length of the pushrod from the pedal to the booster (and it should be adjustable, but you might have to do some lenghtening/shortening, not sure). 60-66 forum is a good place to learn these tricks because they ALL had drums and a single pot master. Many convert to a dual res master and/or add a booster. Anyway, CaptainFab can be a big help. Good luck!

I ended up getting a C20 booster from a board member last week. I got the booster, bracket and rod all assembled with a MC too. I disconnected the MC and put the booster in between my MC and firewall. Super simple install and now stops like my Vette. I am very pleased.

I know disc brakes have more finesse and smoother operation, but for the minimal investment (for now) I couldn't ask for more.

[Vova]

Start saving you change as you can get a big brake setup front and rear for about $1500. A lot of $ but well worth the piece of mind...
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