Radiator overheating already

[Speedbumpauto]

With air temp in the 50's, that truck should have been at T stat temp and no more(180?) unless prolonged stop at a light. It's not unusual for the the overflow to puke in the first few minutes after stopping. That's when the most heat is in the rad/block and no circulation. Check it after it completely cools down and see if there's any coolant in the bottom. If there is, your're good unless it spits up the next time. If it's dry, it means boiling pressure is forcing more out than it can pull back in when it cools.(bigger container) Make sure you have a good cap(15-17#) and also, that 50-50 antifreeze mix thing is not the best for cooling. Pure water is the best so I try to run about 20-25 % for rust purposes. You don't need much in AZ unless you go to Pinetop in the winter.
Slow timing can cause heat. Not having a vac advance at cruise is the same thing unless computer controlled. Lean mixtures also cause heat, dirty air filter, etc. Make sure the engine is running well. They make a larger diameter chrome overflow tank. I had to get one AND add the hose before mine achieved a static condition. Another easy test to do is have a shop(or buy the kit) test for hydrocarbons in the radiator. They put blue liquid in a thing that looks like a turkey baster and pull air out of the radiator when it's hot and running. If it stays blue, you're OK, if it turns yellow, means you have a head gasket problem, most likely. That pressure will push coolant out every time. If all of those things fail, you need to look at a radiator with 1" or 1 1/4" tubes instead of the 1/2 to 3/4 tubes your current one probably has, and it doesn't matter if there are three rows or not. The only advantage aluminum has is the ability to make long, thin tubes with lots of surface area. It's actually not a better heat conductor. Sorry about the length of this. Hope something works.

[NEWFISHER]

+1, try a new cap and make sure to inspect the radiator mounting surface at the cap area to verify a good seal.

[Rufton]

Originally Posted by sqrlnts

Ok sure. Let's say it was overfilled, it will puke the extra out. But even with a smaller catch can the system shouldn't continue to puke fluid if it's not overheating?
Posted via Mobile Device

What I've seen many times on different 60's vehicles is a puddle diameter of roughly 1 to 6 inches after hot shut down.
Guessing about an ounce or two when radiator filled about 1/2" above core.

[sqrlnts]

Installed new 16lb cap, sealing surface is good to go. I am going to install a bigger overflow tank tonight. I did notice this. After driving home from work (temp did not exceed 195) I parked the truck, and checked the overflow. It was dry, i left it that way.

After dinner I fired it up to record the exhaust for Dubie. I noticed a few small drops of moisture exiting both exhaust turn downs. I covered the exhaust with my hand and found it was getting ever so slightly wet, didn't feel like oil but also didn't smell much like coolant. After letting the truck warm up it seemed to disappear. No smoke noticed.

This makes me wonder if both heads have some sort of small crack. The head casting numbers are 462624, which are known to crack.

Is it time to do a leak down check?

[Rufton]

Leak down check is easy and free w/ loaner tool so wouldn't hurt.

[thotfulspot]

Originally Posted by sqrlnts

Installed new 16lb cap, sealing surface is good to go. I am going to install a bigger overflow tank tonight. I did notice this. After driving home from work (temp did not exceed 195) I parked the truck, and checked the overflow. It was dry, i left it that way.

After dinner I fired it up to record the exhaust for Dubie. I noticed a few small drops of moisture exiting both exhaust turn downs. I covered the exhaust with my hand and found it was getting ever so slightly wet, didn't feel like oil but also didn't smell much like coolant. After letting the truck warm up it seemed to disappear. No smoke noticed.

This makes me wonder if both heads have some sort of small crack. The head casting numbers are 462624, which are known to crack.

Is it time to do a leak down check?

Most likely condensation in the exhaust. It's common on a lot of vehicles before the exhaust system comes up to temperature. I wouldn't worry about it. A lot of it has to do with the humidity outside. My BMW and Land Rover both do it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[sqrlnts]

Originally Posted by thotfulspot

Most likely condensation in the exhaust. It's common on a lot of vehicles before the exhaust system comes up to temperature. I wouldn't worry about it. A lot of it has to do with the humidity outside. My BMW and Land Rover both do it.
Posted via Mobile Device

Best news I heard all day, thanks! Installed the new 1 gallon overflow. Filled her up and gave it a whirl. I have the adjustable fan speed controller set high to get the engine up to 210 just to test the system out tonight. So far so good but lets see what tomorrows drive to work and back brings.

Thanks again to everyone.

[robroller]

Unfortunately it is not common in a state with sub 20 % for humidity. I would check that the system was properly "burped" for air, the ensure the blades of the cooling fan are pulling air across the radiator if behind it or pushing if in front..If those are good to go I would be concerned that it is running way to lean, your timing may be incorrect, or leaking head gasket which is pressurizing your cooling system.

[sqrlnts]

So far so good. Drove the truck about 50 miles in midday heat (90) with some tortuously slow traffic on Mill. Temps got up to 210-215 with the fan controller set at the same high setting as last night. Overflow tank was working as it should.

I have set the fan controller lower to kick the fan on earlier which should drop the temps. Now the question is what will happen when I add the Vintage Air Condesner up front??

[robroller]

I would be more concerned about the extra load the compressor being on will put on the truck. As long as you are moving it should be ok.. Havent seen the truck at work lately you parking somewhere else?

[thotfulspot]

Originally Posted by robroller

Unfortunately it is not common in a state with sub 20 % for humidity. I would check that the system was properly "burped" for air, the ensure the blades of the cooling fan are pulling air across the radiator if behind it or pushing if in front..If those are good to go I would be concerned that it is running way to lean, your timing may be incorrect, or leaking head gasket which is pressurizing your cooling system.

I lived in Salt Lake City and spent a lot of time in Moab. Even with the low humidity in those place I've seen it happen to my Rover and Jeep. It depends on the path of the exhaust on it's way out. Unless you are dumping the exhaust straight out of the headers it would be difficult for moisture to reach the tailpipe from the motor.

I agree there might still be air in the system and it's always worth trying to burp it. With it running as hot as it was it could be a head gasket. I just wouldn't expect to see both sides leaking at the same time and just see it at startup.
Posted via Mobile Device

[sqrlnts]

Originally Posted by robroller

I would be more concerned about the extra load the compressor being on will put on the truck. As long as you are moving it should be ok.. Havent seen the truck at work lately you parking somewhere else?

Hahaha, funny story yesterday. I parked over by F12 and noticed as I left it was pissing coolant. I came back to the truck after my morning meeting and noticed oil dry was placed under the truck and there was a notice on my seat. I called security as the note said and the guy said ERT was called out to clean up toxic waste under my truck. I said you mean coolant?

[Speedbumpauto]

One thing I think you should do and I will do to mine, is wire the fan relay into the A/C compressor clutch circuit so that any time the compressor is working, the fan is working. Also, a manual fan relay override switch is nice to have in the cab and is easy to do. That way you can keep your auto fan option at 190 or so, but if you're at a light and or heavy traffic and see the temp starting to climb, you can switch on the fan ahead of time. I do it all the time in the summer in the hot rod.

[sqrlnts]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

One thing I think you should do and I will do to mine, is wire the fan relay into the A/C compressor clutch circuit so that any time the compressor is working, the fan is working. Also, a manual fan relay override switch is nice to have in the cab and is easy to do. That way you can keep your auto fan option at 190 or so, but if you're at a light and or heavy traffic and see the temp starting to climb, you can switch on the fan ahead of time. I do it all the time in the summer in the hot rod.

Luckily the controller has a built in relay circuit for the AC compressor.

[robroller]

Thats too funny! I hate ert I just was relieved of my duties from ert because I refused to show up to stupid calls for things like that..
Posted via Mobile Device

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by sqrlnts

Hahaha, funny story yesterday. I parked over by F12 and noticed as I left it was pissing coolant. I came back to the truck after my morning meeting and noticed oil dry was placed under the truck and there was a notice on my seat. I called security as the note said and the guy said ERT was called out to clean up toxic waste under my truck. I said you mean coolant?

Wait till the bill for the hazardous material clean up arrives....

[Highsider]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Wait till the bill for the hazardous material clean up arrives....

He should use Engine Ice, from SUMMIT. Non-toxic so he could argue the bill (if he ends up with one).

[robroller]

All we would do is throw kitty litter on it then take it to our haz waste room onsite. We are the second largest producer of haz waste in az.
Posted via Mobile Device

[G&R's57GMC]

Originally Posted by thotfulspot

Most likely condensation in the exhaust. It's common on a lot of vehicles before the exhaust system comes up to temperature. I wouldn't worry about it. A lot of it has to do with the humidity outside. My BMW and Land Rover both do it.
Posted via Mobile Device

FACT : Water is a byproduct of combustion.

You will see it until the exhaust system is warmed up.

[sqrlnts]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Wait till the bill for the hazardous material clean up arrives....

Originally Posted by Highsider

He should use Engine Ice, from SUMMIT. Non-toxic so he could argue the bill (if he ends up with one).

That would be so like my workplace. Two weeks ago I got a speeding ticket in the parking lot for going 21 in a 15. Hey if I get a bill at least the next time I take a dump I will have something to wipe with!