Replacement Roof Steel

[Propane350]

Ok. So about four months after purchasing my new 68 longbed, I realize that there's a spot on the passenger's side, above the windshield, that's (properly done) bondo. Wanting to have none of this, I began poking around, only to realize that a soft ball size chunk of the steel is missing and in it's place, bondo. On top of that, the top of the windshield is being held in by what looks to be a concoction of JB weld, rust, dream dust and, you guessed it, bondo.

Not to put down the previous owner, The Great Bondini, but I believe in replacing steel with steel and if I have to, using leading, only as a polish job. Not as major reconstructive surgury.

Anyway, I've been able to find new stamps of every part of the upper cab, except for the inner roof skin.

Anybody know where I could did one of these up? Or should I just break down and find a donor roof?

I would just prefer to have all new clean steel so I know what I'm getting right off the bat.

[72smoker]

Are you talking about the inner front headliner panel or the headliner to the rear of the cab? Do you have some pictures to help us see?

[special-K]

I would try to get a top off a junker and use what you need or if one is clean,replace complete top. I have a top swap to do on something I have

[Propane350]

@72smoker:

ON the roof of the cab is made up of three pieces of steel. The outer skin, the inner forward skin (Where the visors attach to) and the rear inner skin (the part with the ribbing in it, directly above your head while driving.

Sorry, no pics at the moment, when I get up and about I'll try and get some.

@special-K:

Yah, that's what it's looking like for me. I've got a couple emails out to people that I heard were scrapping cabs. Here's to hoping one of them bites!

[my67c20]

Odds are when you start poking around more, you will find more. Mine came from Camarillo, and you gotta love the way the dry salt air rots from the inside out. I basically found a donor, then pieced mine back together from there. I did buy the inner patch panel from GMC pauls, used what i could. One word of advice if you go down the path i took, make sure to tack the piece in place then install the door, and make sure the gaps work. Mine rubs, but nothing a grinder can't fix. Also watch the windshield gap.

[Propane350]

Hah. Those pictures pretty much show exact ally what I need to replace on mine.

I'm still going back and forth on weather I should do patches, like on yours, or just lop off a whole donor roof and replace mine completely.

I'll be using some new steel as it is. Drip rails, the inner skin like you did and possibly the two support pillars on either side of the window. That way I could just peel mine back like a tin can, all the way to the seam, just above the back window and I would have good solid markers on where to cut and whatnot.

[my67c20]

I started out thinking, quick patch here, quick patch there, but quickly found out it was more than i anticipated. I had a hard time finding something locally in the Wisconsin area that was a 67, and in fair shape. Found a guy parting out a truck in Arizona, bought the pillar section from him, then went to go get a windshield from a guy in Minnesota, cracked the windshield taking it out, so i bought the whole roof, and used that for my patchwork. Happy with the end result, but it was allot of work. Hardest part was the back roof seam area. If i was to do it again it would be the whole roof split at the rear window.

[SS Tim]

Roof might be the easiest in the long run. That coastal salt air is hard on these trucks. Replacing panels is a lot of work as the cab was designed in sub assemblies. The outer cab parts were welded together and the inners were welded together then the two assemblies were nested and finish welded. Been looking at a truck that I might be able to afford but the roof and visor rust worry me. But then I could always add a marker roof.

[turp mcspray]

Something else to consider. Rust is ALWAYS worse than it appears!