Drums won't go back on rear

[Dodger]

Hey all,

Got new shoes and refurbished wheel cylinders all round on the 50 3600 but the can't seem to get them adjusted in enough to get the drums on.

There is a metal bar just in behind the shoe spring they goes from the left shoe to the emergency brake bracket and that seems to be what won't allow me to adjust the two shoes in any further. I can't see how it can physically go together any more with that bar there??

Any ideas or might it be the case they when the shop put new pads on, they are too thick. I hope not!

In the photo, the wheel cylinder is only adjusted out as far as it is to hold the cylinder together. When I adjust the ends in, the shoes just won't come in with it, again I think because of that bar behind the spring.

Frustrating!



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[coralhead]

Originally Posted by Dodger

Hey all,

Got new shoes and refurbished wheel cylinders all round on the 50 3600 but the can't seem to get them adjusted in enough to get the drums on.

There is a metal bar just in behind the shoe spring they goes from the left shoe to the emergency brake bracket and that seems to be what won't allow me to adjust the two shoes in any further. I can't see how it can physically go together any more with that bar there??

Any ideas or might it be the case they when the shop put new pads on, they are too thick. I hope not!

In the photo, the wheel cylinder is only adjusted out as far as it is to hold the cylinder together. When I adjust the ends in, the shoes just won't come in with it, again I think because of that bar behind the spring.

Frustrating!



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Do you have the emergency brake released and are the adjusters where they attach to the crossbar on the frame at the full adjustment? They look like a clevis where the cable/stud screw in. 1/4-28unf thread.

[Dodger]

Not sure but what you say makes a lot of sense. If, when the shoes were worn right down, the emergency brake would have been adjusted to suit.

I assume when adjusted that it might change the angle of the lever. Will have a look. Well worth a try.

Thank you!
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[coralhead]

Originally Posted by Dodger

Not sure but what you say makes a lot of sense. If, when the shoes were worn right down, the emergency brake would have been adjusted to suit.

I assume when adjusted that it might change the angle of the lever. Will have a look. Well worth a try.

Thank you!
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When I put new E-brake cables on my 3600 the PO did not have any cables on the truck. He left the levers in a box of parts and when I installed new cables the the threaded ends are srewed in a minimum amout to get the drums on. Hope this helps.

[Dodger]

As I said, worth a try that's for sure.

Because of the rod I can't see how I can get the shoes any closer together at the top because no matter what adjustment I make, the rod is the length it is??

Will try the adjustment because its the only option I have left!

Thanks for the help guys.
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[ET56]

Your wheel cylinders don't look fully retracted to me. It does not take much to prevent the drums going on over new shoes. Hope this helps, good luck...

[Dodger]

Your right. I just adjusted the wheel cylinders out to meet the shoes so that they hold together.

The shoes don't come in with them and are held apart by that bar I discussed.

Where the shoes are at in the pic is as far as I can get them in, even with the cylinders wound right in.
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[nvrdone]

Could it be that the shoes are not centered in the drum ? From the picture it looks like the top end of the right shoe sits lower than the right one where it meets the wheel cylinder.
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[OrrieG]

If all the mechanical bits discussed above are connected right and the drum will not fit over shoes you need to have the shoes sized to the drum diameter. Used to be common practice when people used brake shops. Most counter guys now do not even know that might be required and did not mention it when you bought the parts. Especially true if you bought new drums. The shoe mechanism is designed to be self centering, if there isn't any wiggle room then something is binding up. I agree with the poster that your wheel cylinder does not look centered (left shoe looks like it sticks out farther then the right).

[nvrdone]

Looking closer at the picture it does look like the left adjuster is screwed out further than the right. But that may be because dodger is in oz
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[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

Could it be that the shoes are not centered in the drum ? From the picture it looks like the top end of the right shoe sits lower than the right one where it meets the wheel cylinder.
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I think he hit on it as it appears that the shoes are out of position.
First you have to back the adjusters off. Don't worry about having them contact the shoes right now until the shoes are pulled into them by the springs.

If the adjuster rod is holding things off you need to figure out why it is holding things off.
The variables could include:
The wrong shoes for the application even though they are the correct size.
Shoes on in the wrong position.
Spring on the bar in the wrong position or the bar installed wrong.
Return springs on wrong.

[Nordic]

Hope this helps
http://chevy.oldcarhttp://chevy.oldc...es/49dbs19.jpg

[Dodger]

Just a quick update in case someone else strikes the same problem.

I disconnected and pulled out the emergency brake cables so that the lever in the drum was free to extend. The emergency cables have seized up and were holding the shoes right out and no matter what the pedal was doing, the cable inside the drum was contracted as far as it could be.

The second area that gave me more adjustment was the bolt that holds the e brake lever to the shoe (top of the right hand shoe in the pic). It is an eccentric bolt and by turning it there is more adjustment in and out of the shoe.

Doing this allowed one drum on however still can't get he last one. It's close!

It may well be that the shoe pads are too thick and I need to get them shaved. Just about out of ideas on that one!

So, if you are having this problem, give the e brake cable and eccentric bolt a go.

Cheers
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[coralhead]

I was able to find the correct e-brake cables for 3/4 tons from Jim Carters. I tried classic with the "extender" to try and save money but ended up returning them and going with the correct. Glad to hear you are getting close.

[Dodger]

Thanks Coralhead,

I've dropped them into the brake shop that refurbished my wheel cylinders and did my shoes. That are going to rebuild them and install new cables into the existing fittings which look all good. Not cheap though.

It is however, less than me getting parts from the US though as shipping kills us over here.

I bought $600 worth of parts from Classic Parts, nothing big at all and not real heavy stuff and the shipping cost me $390.

With that type of shipping rebuilding where possible is the go.

Just need to work out that final drum!!
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