Z bar is not sitting flush! Anyone know why?

[BD70CST]

I have a 1970 4wd that's been having some clutch linkage problems. When I tore it down, I found that the z bar was not all the way up against the block. After looking a little closer, it can't because the z bar is sitting at an angle and can't sit on the ball brackets properly. It seems the engine is too low or the frame is too high...I need to make up about an 1/8 of an inch.

Could it be the motor mounts are worn? It's about 1/8 of an inch that I need to make up. Has anyone had this before? Thanks in advance.
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[88fordf150]

Pictures may help get more reply's.

[jocko]

it should not be flush with the block as you mention - a ball stud screws into the block and the z-bar simply slides over that - and it should not be touching the block at all, even when seated all the way on the ball.

as for the angle - sounds like you are describing it as leaning away frrom horizontal from left to right or vice versa (pictures would help). Unless it's leaning so far that it is casuing misalignment of the linkage (either the rod that connects throught the firewall or the rod that actuates the clutch fork) then it should be just fine. 1/8" out of horizontal does not sound like a sufficient amount to cause a problem.

So, better yet, recommend you describe what you mean by "some clutch linkage problems." Is it binding, if so, where? Doesn't feel right, etc... Hopefully we can help.

[BD70CST]

Photos are on the way.

[BD70CST]

Here are some photos of the z bar. The first one is where the z bar is on the ball shaft. It seems that it should slide all the way up and over the wide part of the shaft that is up against the block (left arrow in 2nd photo). It slides over perfectly with no play if I don't have the bracket on the frame (see photo # 3, the z bar is flat when the bracket is not on the frame). The arrow is pointing to the spot it actually sits on when the frame bracket is installed(arrow on the right in the 2nd pic). Since it does, the z bar sits like this / (not this bad) and the top of the z bar rests on the shaft. The 3rd photo shows how it is straight across but without the bracket. It's sitting on the frame.

The story on it was that the truck was sitting for almost 10 years (I had it for 2 years before I parked it). The clutch was replaced before it was parked. When I got it going a few months ago, the clutch went to the floor before it engaged and it was still hard to shift so it probably wasn't engaged all the way...it felt funny on its way down though (not spongy, but more like it was hung up on something and flexing). After reading posts on this forum, I took it to a guy locally because I thought it might have the wrong sized throw out bearing in it. He said he thought it was the linkage. I drove it like this, then one day pulled the clutch back from the firewall and WA-LA! It shifted the way it should. That lasted for two weeks and then went back to the way it was before, only worse. So I tore down the linkage. Some of the parts are worn so I will replace those as I go, but that isn't the main problem.

Sorry this is so long, but wanted to give all the details.

[67c10rustbuket]

Maybe a 2wd/4wd thing but my Z bar and stud doesn't look like that (1967 formerly 283 3ott 2wd). Yours (ball stud) looks too long compared to my original one, check the pic maybe it will help? My truck has a Bracket riveted to the frame to support the outboard end of the Zbar which I dont see in the pics you posted. Maybe someone "customized" it at some point??

[BD70CST]

I never had a bracket on the engine side since I've had it. I replaced the original (i think) ball shaft with one I bought from LMC (pg 124 of their online catalog). That's what's in the pics. I thought that would help fix the problem, but it's all the same.
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[vectorit]

There is a thick felt washer that goes on the stud first, then the Z bar with grease inside slips onto the stud and the felt washer keeps the grease from making to much of a mess.

I can't see the frame mount, Did it get removed? The ball stud on that end is tightened to snug up very close to the frame bracket. There is a special washer that is keyed and shaped like an L that goes on before the nut. This washer keeps the Z bar from sliding forward, and making the Z bar getting out of alignment.

Have you taken the engine ball stud off and made sure it isn't bent?
Have you verified that the long actuating rod is the correct one (length wise).

This picture is of a 2wd set up, I am just including it for the frame side pointing out the L shaped lock washer and the mount which is usually riveted to the frame.
The OEM ones are flimsy, and I had one made out of thicker steel.

[BD70CST]

I do not have an "L" shaped bracket. It didn't have one before and didn't see it in the drawing like your diagram has. This may be one of my problems. On the engine side, the engine ball stud is brand new. I just replaced it, the one in the pictures is the new one. I do have the thick felt piece that goes between the z bar and the bracket. You can't see the frame bracket in the picture because I took it out to take the photo.
Thanks to all that have responded. Taking all into consideration. Still listening to any suggestions.
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[BD70CST]

After reading Vectorit's response again, I'm wondering if I should have a felt washer between the engine and the ball stud. Also wondering if the actuating rod is the one from the clutch pedal to the z bar. If that's what it is, then I believe it's the stock rod. It does have a slight bend in it, but not enough to be the main problem.
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[68 TT]

It could be the clutch fork is damaged. My 78 K20 had similar problems and it ended up being a cracked clutch fork end that let the throwout bearing slip out of position sometimes.

You might be able to see inside the bell housing and get a look at the offending parts if you slide the clutch fork grommet out of the way.

[88fordf150]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

It could be the clutch fork is damaged. My 78 K20 had similar problems and it ended up being a cracked clutch fork end that let the throwout bearing slip out of position sometimes.

You might be able to see inside the bell housing and get a look at the offending parts if you slide the clutch fork grommet out of the way.

I'm with (68TT) I think its more of a problem with the clutch fork and bearing. Start there and make sure it is set correctly and at the correct angle.

[SOON2BLAZE]

If it seems the engine is sitting too low, what condition are your engine and tranny mounts in? Most of these old rubbers get old and oil soaked. On my BBC the z bar does not sit perfectly parallel, but does not cause binding.

[BD70CST]

Thanks Everyone for the replies. I'm going to go to a chevy truck parts place and see how it mounts on other trucks. If anyone has pictures of their z bar, I'm looking for the area at the engine block. Also looking for pictures where it bolts into the frame bracket. I'd like to make sure I'm putting it back together right. The bracket has an "L" shape to it, so I'm assuming the bolt goes all the way to the right...seems to fit right in where the bolt is flat. It also sounds like I might be missing a piece that holds it in place there. Thanks again for the replies.

[vectorit]

I looked at my '70 K10, and it doesn't sit flush either. Nor does the one in my '68 K20.

I just went through a huge mess with my linkage, where it broke and I found the engine ball stud was bent. So the '70 clutch isn't adjusted yet to where I like it, but it works smoothly and functions as it should while engaging and disengaging the clutch.

Here are pics of the linkage in my '70 K10.

[BD70CST]

Thanks vectorit! That's exactly what I needed. I am missing the little "L" bracket and the z bar sits the same way yours does. That helps me alot.

[AnlaufJohn]

So, from the drawing and pictures, it appears there is no angled bend in the round tube between the 90° ears on each end.
I haven't taken any pictures of my Z-bar yet, but I noticed that it was slightly curved.
John

[PanelDeland]

The 1/8 out of alignment shouldn't be an issue.The rubber in the motor mounts will let it move that much.I think you have the frame mount end problem and/or a problem with the clutch fork.Watch out for which way you put the cotter pin into the linkages.I had a engine side ball stud break once and the sharp tip of the cotter pin went thru the oil filter and made a pin hole.Too bad the guages on that truck hadn't been fixed yet.