Power Windows not working???

[1984SILVERADO]

I was wondering is there a fuse or a relay for the power windows on a 84 k10. I checked all the wires and repaired the broken ones in the door jam. My windows are still not working.

[tucsonjwt]

Based on my experience, what I would do is remove the door panel and test the harness at the power window motor and see if you have power there. I just stuck the 2 leads of a cheap 12 volt continuity tester into the end of the harness to the motor. If the tester lights up when you operate the the switch, then you have power to the motor and the motor needs to be replaced.
If you do need new motors I would by Delco motors from the online OEM GM sources (I can list them if you like.) Prices are at or below aftermarket prices.

In order to remove the harness at the motor you have to reach your hand into the hole in the door and feel around until you find the connector on the end of the harness and wiggle it off the motor. Make sure you note which end of the connector is up, since you cannot see into that hole to verify the proper orientation when you reinstall it.

If you don't have power to the motor you must trace back through the wiring. You can wiggle the connector at the power window switch while you have the switch lever in the on position and see if that caused the window to work. If you can get it to work by fiddling with that connector, then you need a new connector which comes with a new short harness. You can check that connector by sticking the leads of the 12 volt tester in the holes and see if it lights up in any configuration. If not, you probably need that harness and connector.

Of course, if you have a known good switch handy you can replace it and see if that works. In my case, I replaced the switches multiple times until I figured out that I had bad harnesses which caused intermittent non operation. You can buy the separate contacts to rebuild the connector but I don't see how you can get that molded connector apart - far beyond my simple level of understanding.

I don't see any reason why the wiring would fail farther upstream unless somebody was messing around with it. You already fixed the one known failure point, so I would rule that out for the time being.

[1984SILVERADO]

Okay I will start testing I just put a new switch in and a new connector because there were some broken wires that came off the connector. I will start to chase the wires and see where it is failing. I appreciate the knowledge and time. Thanks

[bigjim321]

Well My windows started acting up last week ( 88 Suburban ) Today, Passenger rear window will roll down and not roll up. Cant get the front driver switch to roll it up or down and the affected door switch wont roll it up but it will roll down I have scanned the threads and the common denominator seems to be replace the switch if you motor hasnt failed. I am comfortable that the motor is good because it will roll down just not up. I am thinking that the driver door is the one to replace first. Then work my way around to the passenger door... Probably will buy all new switches if they arent to bad on cost. Did any of you replace the switch and the problem stopped?

[tucsonjwt]

I had the same experience. It turned out that the short harness connecting to the driver's switch. Suggest that you read my prior post and focus on checking the harness, starting with the driver's door harness. The motor and the switch are the easy replacements, so everybody does those first, but you need to make sure the wiring/connector going to the switch and motor are giving the proper electrical signal.

[1984SILVERADO]

Check the wires in the door jam. I had some that were broken.

[tucsonjwt]

So, pop the switch out of the door panel and gently pull it out until you can see that plastic connector with harness. Operate the switch and wiggle the wires to see if you can get the window to function properly - if it works while wiggling, then observe which wire is the culprit. If he wiggle method works, then you have appropriate power at the connector but not through the connector - so replace the connector and its attached short harness. If you don't have power where it should be, then trace the wire through the door panel down through the door pillar and beyond as mentioned above. This assumes that you have a new properly functioning power window switch.

If you search for the power window topic you will find a wiring diagram which will show which wire is responsible for the function you are missing.

[bigjim321]

I did pull the door panel off the rear pass door and had 12 volts to one of the post on the switch. You are probably right on the wiring because I noticed one moring that I couldnt roll any of them up or down then it started working again then only the rear pass door failed in the up position. The driver switch doesnt work at all controling the bad pass window but everything else works fine. The other three up and down no problem. I really need that wiring diagram your talking about. I will attempt the search. I do know that the suburban and my 3X3 dually have the same wiring in them, at least that is what i was told.

[bigjim321]

Problem solved! Well, At least I found the problem.. Wires broke off at the Driver door terminal. basically too short to attach with any ease... Got them to touch just enough to get the window rolled back up.. That would explain why they window moves slow in the past..The pin nut that retains the terminal block to the switch was missing and allowed some movement. Its been repaired before.. Is there any better fix out there?
.

[tucsonjwt]

I read on another forum (F body, Firebird/Camaro ?) that you can get the flat spade ends and solder them on the ends of the wires. To me, it looks like our trucks have wires staked at the factory into the the molded plastic switch - so I don't know how that works.

There should be a short harness on that switch which terminates not far from the switch (maybe 12" or less?). You can buy the switch and harness as one piece - I am guessing about $25 from the online OEM vendors.

If you check either www.oewarehouse.com or www.oehq.com (I forgot which one) you will see a link to the AC Delco pigtail catalog. You enter the number of contacts your switch has and you can scroll through the pictures to find the one you want. Of course, you might be able to get the GM part number from the Rock Auto catalog. Once you have that GM part number you can search the web (Amazon, Ebay, google) and find the best price. The two vendors I mentioned above have free shipping above $25 ~ $50 - so add a Delco filter or two if you need to get to the no shipping cost limit. Of course, no sales tax on the internet - until Congress gets back in session next week.

[LONGHAIR]

I have found that it's almost always in the wiring or stitches, the motors are pretty tough.

[mtnsackett]

has anyone ever heard of the motors getting weak over time and needing to be replaced?

[bigjim321]

There is a spade lug repair already ( you cant see it in this photo) Thanks for the links, I will check it out but really want to create or come up with a better fix for the problem, I see other wires getting close failing and you can take the whole thing apart to get to the wires and terminals. I am just affraid of not remembering where they all go if they came out... I have had several GM truck over my life time and all that have had electric windows and door locks had at least one slow window. My suburban has one on the pasenger side and was hoping that maybe if i get a better connection it would work better.. I think the track and felt guides are old and brittle and drag on the window. In the summer it works alot better when its warmer up and expand.