Removing th400

[JointTech]

I need to pull my tranny tomorrow. C20 - 2wd. TH400 attached to 350.

Anything thats going to be a problem or I need to look out for? I've R&R a few trannys from blazers but its been 15 years.

[Street Smart]

Shouldn`t be to bad, just a heavy trans. 400s have the least to disconnect and no kick down cables to adjust. Do yourself a favor, drop the pan first and drain fluid, makes it less messy.

[JointTech]

yep and while its out im putting in a drain plug!!

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by JointTech

yep and while its out im putting in a drain plug!!

Honestly, I think the lack of drain plug, was GM's way of telling you that if you're draining the fluid, chances are it needs a new gasket and filter too, so you may as well drop the entire pan. I get it though. It'd be less messy to have fluid coming from the plug
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[GASoline71]

I always use a 1 gallon ziploc bag and a couple rubber bands around it on the tailshaft to keep hold of any fluid coming out of the rear of the tailshaft.

Gary

[airdale94]

Don't forget to seat your torque converter when installing it. Put on pump shaft rotate and push until it drops in.

[JointTech]

removed everything from the transmission but ran out of time before I got to the bell housing bolts.
While I was under there I found this. Anything look funny?


steps I took:
-Remove vacuum modulator hose and retaining bolt.
-drain as much fluid as possible out the modulator hole.
-Drop the pan and remove the rest of the fluid. I still hate GM for not putting a drain plug on the pan. 1/2" socket
-Remove speedometer cable. Just took a light squeeze with pliars to get it loose enough to hand loosen.
-Remove torque convertor cover - 7/16" socket
- remove torque convertor to flexplate bolts. 9/16" socket. I used my hands and the crank bolt to spin the motor to get to them.
I used a screwdriver and a pair of pliars making sure not to touch the teeth on the flexplate to hold it while breaking the TC bolts free with breaker bar.
- remove transmission cooler lines. compression fitting. i used a 1/2" flare nut wrench.
- remove transmission power plug thingy on the side. just pulls out.
- remove ubolts things from differntial yoke to remove rear drive shaft.
- remove carrier bearing and remove front shaft. i wanna say that was a 5/8" nut with a 11/16" bolt head on top. dont spend 10 minutes spinning the nut for no reason...
- remove shift linkage.

I made sure to put all the bolts back where they came from so I dont lose them. except the TC bolts until i get it dropped.


Thats as far as I got today.

I also built a tray for the jack.



its not very steady side to side but it will be fine when there are 2 of us guiding it down.

Hopefully get it pulled tomorrow. and to the rebuild shop on monday. then back in next weekend.

Hopefully by then my new drilled/slotted rotors from scotts hotrod will be here. But it looks like I need to get to the suspension work sooner rather than later.

[airdale94]

Shock absorber attached to your rear crossmember?

Ha Ha, OK I see the picture enlarged.

[JointTech]

lol yea the missing nut is what suprised me

Note to self; there's a reason they say to put the front on jack stands. Its really annoying when you drop the tranny and find it wont come out from under the truck...

I found they went ahead and skipped one of the top bellhousing bolts.

the passenger side of the crossmember didnt have any of the top bolts and the bottoms werent even tight.

I had to unhook the ebrake cable to be able to move the cross member back with a BFH.

But shes out and in the back of my buddy's truck to go to the tranny guy tomorrow.