New Motor Opinions Please

[Ardee83]

Today I found out that I have a bent push rod in my 305. To have it repaired I am looking at 1,500. 1,500 is a lot of money to put towards a 305 and its also a nice start on a new motor. So I have been reading around the forums and searching this and that. I am just curious if anyone has ever picked up a turn key motor such as the 1 in the link below. If so pros and cons. Anyone ever purchased or had any experience with this seller below? I have also looked through some of the sponsors here as well so if anyone wants to make suggestions i am happy to hear them.Thanks everyone

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-35...0be5c5&vxp=mtr
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[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I personal prefer to build my own, but people I known who have gotten crate motors have been happy with them.

I don't think Idaho has smog regs. So have you thought about dropping in a Vortec 350? You can get a runner for under $750 alot of times.

[Ardee83]

Correct no smog regs in Idaho...... At this time. No I have not thought about the Vortec 350. I am brand new to all of this, learning as I go. To make sure I am understanding correctly, a Vortec 350 is a 350 with Vortec heads? If I totally missed the boat with that guess can you help me get back on board? Thanks
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[mtnsackett]

since you and I are in the same neck of the woods I would recommend you take a look at s & J engines out of Spokane I have purchased two engines from them and been extremely happy with them and their warranty.

https://www.sandjengines.com/
(509) 838-3625
Toll Free: (866) 498-0658

[Ardee83]

My cousin actually lives in Missoula. He works for a cable company there. Thank you for the link, that is an awesome warranty and decent pricing. If you do t mind me asking what were the 2 motors you purchased from them? Ryan
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[mtnsackett]

Originally Posted by Ardee83

My cousin actually lives in Missoula. He works for a cable company there. Thank you for the link, that is an awesome warranty and decent pricing. If you do t mind me asking what were the 2 motors you purchased from them? Ryan
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I purchased a 4 bolt main 350 for a 79 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 that my dad has now,( I think it has 25,000 on it) and I have one in my 92 Isuzu rodeo, that I put in three years ago it has about 60,000 miles on it now. the guys there were amazing I did have one hiccup with the rodeo I was sent the wrong 3.1 and they sent a guy in a truck with the right engine and picked up the other wrong one and took the core at the same time.

Edit I have had no issues with either one not even an oil leak.

[iehotrod]

This is awesome hook up. They do have good deals and warranty. If can't get my motor to act right that might be viable options for me too. I think if I do the same I personnally rather go with the 350.

Originally Posted by mtnsackett

since you and I are in the same neck of the woods I would recommend you take a look at s & J engines out of Spokane I have purchased two engines from them and been extremely happy with them and their warranty.

https://www.sandjengines.com/
(509) 838-3625
Toll Free: (866) 498-0658

[iehotrod]

HUM...maybe you can build my if I dont go with a crate motor. If your up for it.

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

I personal prefer to build my own, but people I known who have gotten crate motors have been happy with them.

I don't think Idaho has smog regs. So have you thought about dropping in a Vortec 350? You can get a runner for under $750 alot of times.

[74 stepside]

You do realize a bent push rod is a easy fix..remove the valve cover, loosen the rocker arm and pull out the bent push rod. Replace it, adjust the rocker arm, and you are done. If they are charging $1500 for that, Im in the wrong business.

[old Rusty C10]

for #1500 you can get a jegs motor shipped to your door..... ive used two of them so far for two of my classics and am very happy

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

for #1500 you can get a jegs motor shipped to your door..... ive used two of them so far for two of my classics and am very happy

I think what Bob was trying to say is....for 1500 you can get a brand new General Motors crate engine built on a GM assembly line with a 3 year 50k mile warranty redeemable at any General Motors dealership in the country coast to coast from Jegs delivered to your door.
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[slinginrods]

The bent push rod is most likely the result of carboned up stuck valve.they rarely bend without cause.so that's the reason for the high est. as far as crate engines go,right now at pace performance they have a 300 hp gm engine WITH intake for 1895.00 free shipping .unlimited miles 24 month warranty.hard to beat deal.gm performance engine.im seriously thinking aBout one .
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[motornut]

cheapest fix replace the one rod and try it
if it blows more then worry bout changeing it out to a 350
do you have to return the core?
as the 305 won't be a core for a 350

[Ardee83]

You guys are awesome! I have to give thank to LTS70 for showing me this site. All the information is great! When I purchased the pickup I was told the motor and transmission had been rebuilt, with in the last 2 years and they only had 22k miles on them. After this little issue, I know the original owner who did the work, so I called him and was just informed that NO the motor has not been rebuilt. Its all original except the carb. On the good side YES the transmission has been rebuilt, it was done by Freeway Transmissions out of Salt Lake, so it truly only has 22k miles on it, its a 700r4. I am going to start checking out all these links and I am going to go with a 350. I appreciate everyone's input this far. I hope to learn a lot and be able to pay it forward some day.

[lts70]

How about a 383 stroker?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engi...56#moreDetails
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http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...m=383%20TURNKE

[lts70]

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[MalibuSSwagon]

Originally Posted by 74 stepside

You do realize a bent push rod is a easy fix..remove the valve cover, loosen the rocker arm and pull out the bent push rod. Replace it, adjust the rocker arm, and you are done. If they are charging $1500 for that, Im in the wrong business.

Its this easy. A new pushrod is about $2, 1500 to replace it??? Please post that quote so we can point out all the things you are getting ripped off to do.

Also, you may want to re-adjust all the rocker arms, the most likely cause of a bent pushrod is the rocker clearance is too tight. I'll post the Chevrolet adjustment procedure that I copied from my GM Service Manual, its really quite easy. I had never done it on a SBC, and got it right on the first try with this procedure.

Valve Adjustment

1. Remove the rocker arm cover as outlined previously.
2. Crank the engine until the mark on the vibration damper lines up with the "O" mark on the timing tab and the engine in the number one firing position. This may be determined by placing fingers on the number one valve as the mark on the damper comes near the "O" mark on the timing tab. If the rocker arms are not moving, the engine is in the number one firing position. If the rocker arms move as the mark comes up to the timing tab, the engine is in the number six firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach the number one position.
3. With the engine in the number one firing position as determined above, the following valves may be adjusted:
- Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
- Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
4. Back out the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod then turn in the adjusting nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while turning the adjusting nut. When the play has been removed, turn the adjusting nut in one full additional turn (to center the lifter plunger).
5. Crank the engine one revolution until the timing tab "O" mark and vibration damper mark are again the alignment. This is the number six firing position the following valves may be adjusted:
- Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
- Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
6. Install the rocker arm cover as outlined previously.

(Even numbered cylinders are in the right bank; odd numbered cylinders are in the left bank, when viewed from the rear of the engine)

[Copied from the Chevrolet 10-30 series 1986 Light Duty Truck shop manual; Section 6A5 page 6, Small Block]

[MalibuSSwagon]

Of course, if you want to just drop the slug 305 in favor of a more powerful engine, thats fine. But, if you want to own and modify an old truck or car, you should know how to work on them too. Two reasons why,

1. Mechanics love nothing more than to charge clueless customers for unnecessary services.

2. To save yourself a boatload of cash.

Of course, if you'd rather have a mechanic do the dirty work for you, its good to be an informed consumer, that way you don't get ripped off!

[Ardee83]

thank you Malibu. I am going to try and fix the bent push rod myself. I know I can do it. So here is what the prior mechanic said;
1. Found #5 cylinder exhaust valve push rod bent and had caused rocker to wear on side of valve stem causing damage to stem. Recommended replacing valve. Also found #5 exhaust lifter collapsed.
2. Recommend complete valve job estimate $1500-$1600

Sorry for the mislead in the first post of 1500 for a bent push rod. Remember I am learning. There is a guy who lives around the corner from me, he has rebuilt 4 67-72 era vehicles, all of them with LS1 engines. I was always to nervous to go talk to him because I had no clue what I was talking about, but I worked up the courage after these posts and he is going to help me talk some of the issues I have been having. I am excited