body drop

[vegadesign]

trying to get as much drop as possible,
the rear is already dragging and now i just want to get the front down,
im avoing the normal z to the front portion of the frame so im going to bodydropp it

iv only bodydroped yotas and nissan hardbodies so this will be my first c10


im looking for a bunch of pics and possibly measurments for a 4" bodydrop
this is my current drop with it completly aired out
im currently working on cupping an extra set of lcas 3" and moving the balljoint up at 1.5"
this will get me most the way to the ground
i may not need a 4" body drop so maybe only like 2 but the way i see it is
"go big or go home"
this is my current drop with bags all around.
the rear has a monster notch on stock trailing arms and 3" blocks
the front is just 1.5" cups in the lowers and upper pocket bag plate

[PanelDeland]

I don't have any suggestions on how to or how much.I just have a statement to make reguarding terminology.Body Drop is a term I see a lot and the people using it are usually under 30 and consider it something that came into being in the 90's.The classic term is Channeled and it's been being done since the 30's at least.It's the same process just a different term and I prefer using classic terms for classics and modern terms for late models.Knowing the terms used from the days of the Customs will make you seem more knowledgeable when talking with other classic owners.
Just my opinion.No disrespect meant.

[Robznob11]

Bed floor wood or steel?
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[vegadesign]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

I don't have any suggestions on how to or how much.I just have a statement to make reguarding terminology.Body Drop is a term I see a lot and the people using it are usually under 30 and consider it something that came into being in the 90's.The classic term is Channeled and it's been being done since the 30's at least.It's the same process just a different term and I prefer using classic terms for classics and modern terms for late models.Knowing the terms used from the days of the Customs will make you seem more knowledgeable when talking with other classic owners.
Just my opinion.No disrespect meant.

none taken, thats just how i learned but thanks for that info im gunna have to use that lol

Originally Posted by Robznob11

Bed floor wood or steel?
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steel and it basically gutted already and is just the braces holding the body up

[tinydb84]

Any reason you arent going to Z it? It would be a lot easier. Or even go with a dropmember and probably dont in a weekend.

Bodydrops take a lot of work and maybe its just me but its easier to weld 3/8'' steel over sheet metal.

[vegadesign]

its my daily driver and its kinda a pain to do either a z or a body drop,
the body drop will be the best of both world giving me the clearance past the frame and crossmember.
if i could z the frame one of these weekends i might do it

[JointTech]

now im confused. A body drop is NOT the opposite of a body lift?
I thought channeling is when you cut a horizontal chunk out of the body to make it shorter. I assumed a body drop would be lowering the whole body where it attaches to the frame.

[vegadesign]

That's what I'm thinking of, raising the bed floor to aloe the bed floor to settle
And I think I can z the from frame horns to instead of modifying the core support
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[Robznob11]

The reason i asked about the floor is because by flipping the brackets to the to on wood you get 3" thats what i did then i cut the cab. Floor over the frame and center and raised it 2" i moved the back cab mounts down on the frame 3". The fronts however cannot be moved down that much, so i made new front supports out of 12 gage . I did not make them like the oes witch are about 1 3/4 thick mine are only as thick as the plate and boxed like a c channel. Then i moved the front bracket down 1 1/4 to make up the rest of the 3". I then welded a piece of 1 1/2 square tube between my frame horns on front to hold there shape. Then i cut them off between the gear box and support mount. Dropped them 3" and boxed it in with 3/16 plate. The only other consideration you may want to look at is the steering column. It will go straight into the a arm after the 3" drop also the raised cab floor will put the wheel against your legs. I solved this by moving my brake booster and peddals left 3" then i raised the column 3 " and used an exhaust clamp welded to the side of the peddal bracket to hold it into place. I also used a bench style seat and mounted the outer mounts to the original floor that was left so the seat hight never moved. Makes for alot more leg room.. its not a hard task and ab out as cheap of a drop as you can get. One other thing i used 1" square tubeing to span across the cut portion of the floor so that it would still be ridged. You could resue the original floor i fabbed mine for clearance issues with engine tranny swap. I like the idea of the drop look with better clerance and better ride! And if i were to bag this thing and air it out it woul be nearly if not as low as those with obdoodles$$$$ in there suspension. I will warn you tho you will find all kinds of clearance issues if you go swapping to lsx or other things so be prepaired to get mad a few times lol i ended up reworking my whole firewall aswell! Good luck!
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[vegadesign]

lots of great information there, sounds like you were wingin it when you did yours. got any pics?

i was thinking about reinforcing the floor like you said.
im pritty sure ill be using the stock floor still so making it stronger would probably be smart.

i think the bed will be the least of my worries since its not bolted to the cab.

when i get home ill start taking a look at everything so i can prep for it. i might be taking a short vaction here soon so it all might work to my advantage


about the gas tank since its inside of the cab. if i raise the floor do you think ill have any clearance issues?

[RustySparkCustoms]

Sectioning is cutting a horizontal width out of your whole vehicle, in essence a chop top of your body, channeling is dropping the whole body through your frame rails resulting in a tunnel where your frame rails come through your floorboards, as well as raising your transmission tunnel, body drop is where your floor stays stock, and you drop the body around it resulting in a step from door sill to floor, as well as desired amount out of your firewall and back wall, stock floor body drop is like channeling, you still have to raise the transmission tunnel, but the frame is cut down and reinforced or made, so they do not come in through your floor boards, all of the above require dropping your front core support horns or sectioning your radiator support, i hope this helps define things

[Robznob11]

Originally Posted by vegadesign

lots of great information there, sounds like you were wingin it when you did yours. got any pics?

i was thinking about reinforcing the floor like you said.
im pritty sure ill be using the stock floor still so making it stronger would probably be smart.

i think the bed will be the least of my worries since its not bolted to the cab.

when i get home ill start taking a look at everything so i can prep for it. i might be taking a short vaction here soon so it all might work to my advantage


about the gas tank since its inside of the cab. if i raise the floor do you think ill have any clearance issues?

tank has to be relocated! Yea I was winging it
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[vegadesign]

I was really hoping I wouldn't have too but I guess this fuel cell finally has a purpose
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[schurg]

seems to me to get a complimenting drop on the front of that truck should be possible with just suspension components rather then committing to a body drop...seeing how this is a daily driver and all, a body drop is a huge time consuming committment. perhaps a modified bag bracket, drop spindles...combination of both? what about cutting the upper spring cup out and raising it a few inches? (if you have confidence in your welds lol). but, I must say this...if you are going to be in the area fixing rust...then doing the body drop at the same time might not be a bad idea

[vegadesign]

Originally Posted by schurg

seems to me to get a complimenting drop on the front of that truck should be possible with just suspension components rather then committing to a body drop...seeing how this is a daily driver and all, a body drop is a huge time consuming committment. perhaps a modified bag bracket, drop spindles...combination of both? what about cutting the upper spring cup out and raising it a few inches? (if you have confidence in your welds lol). but, I must say this...if you are going to be in the area fixing rust...then doing the body drop at the same time might not be a bad idea

some good points there
currently im working on an extra set of lca's i have
im cupping them 3" and moving the balljoint up 2"
iv concidered cutting off the upper spring pocket so i can move the upper control arm up 2" and the bag bracket more if needed
hoping this will lay crossmember

and i may just settle with a stock floor bodydrop and remove the bushings and z the front frame horns so i dont have to modify the core support

[midniteblues]

do you even have drop spindles? it looks to me like you still have drums. i would start with spindles if you dont have'm.

[vegadesign]

I have drum front and rear still, not really planning on doing disc anytime soon
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[sKnNyPpY]

All that customizing of the control arms probably won't work with drop spindles down the line.

[vegadesign]

im modifying an extra pair of control arms just for that purpose and cuz its my daily