bolt on bags

[jrobertop88]

Any of you guys running bolt in air bags, and what are the pros and cons on the set up... And if there's any pictures that show height that would be great. Thanks fellas.
(Any of you guys know how to upload pictures via phone. Android so, no iPhones)
Posted via Mobile Device

[WCHLVR]

A quick look to the top of the forum you will find this- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=507577

The pics have to be hosted in order for them to be posted. You will need to find a hosting service that can be accessed from your phone.

[kieth]

Originally Posted by jrobertop88

Any of you guys running bolt in air bags, and what are the pros and cons on the set up... And if there's any pictures that show height that would be great. Thanks fellas.
(Any of you guys know how to upload pictures via phone. Android so, no iPhones)
Posted via Mobile Device

If your truck has a trailing arm suspension with coil springs the air bags are easy to do. There are a lot of threads that show mild to wild air bag systems. I have 2600 series bags with a 2" lowering block and no notch on the rear of my 66 gmc. I dropped the front 2.5: with spindles, installed the bags so I could get the ride height where we wanted it. There are so many variables in air bags that one really has to know what you want to accomplish:

How low do you want to go ?

here is a link to my build showing the transition from stock to lowered. My next step is to do a mild notch and then change the front springs and front tires. Adding bags to the rear is the first step in being able to adjust the stance of your truck.

stock with 15" 235/70 tires:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...5257&k=RQTptm2

first iteration of rear bags:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...4BKf&lb=1&s=X2

later we removed the bottom cage and bolted the bag directly to the trailing arm: then installed a lowering block:

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...3351&k=9b7PbpP

before picture without front drop spindles:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...1202&k=w9XC84h


pictures after the drop spindles:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...6507&k=dJxggwv

If you want to go farther than this it gets expensive and can involve modifications to the rear frame all the way to replacing the rear suspension altogether. At the front of the truck you can pancake the front crossmember, add air bags to front, or install a complete Porterbilt front suspension.

Hope this helps a little. Kieth

[jrobertop88]

Very helpful thanks, right now it's sitting lower than what you yours at, mine is on cut spring coils. But it's too stiff bouncing.. I'll find the thread so you can see how low it is. and how low I want it with out notches on the frame... Thanks for showing your set up, how does it ride
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[jrobertop88]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=507575&page=9
Miayota green truck...
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[kieth]

Originally Posted by jrobertop88

Very helpful thanks, right now it's sitting lower than what you yours at, mine is on cut spring coils. But it's too stiff bouncing.. I'll find the thread so you can see how low it is. and how low I want it with out notches on the frame... Thanks for showing your set up, how does it ride
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Like a sports car Cadilac........it rides really smooth. If you are going lower than mine you will have to notch it. There just is not enough room for the center of the rear end, it will bang the bottom of the bed, and you want enough room so it has some travel up and down. Here is a picture of a bridged frame that will let you go extremely low....

here is a project we call Corina Patina but she has not had a lot of attention lately.

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/65-C...KZgGh&lb=1&s=A

[LVPhotos]

Rear 1962 spring vs bag.

http://carphotos2.cardomain.com/imag...2980_large.jpg

[LVPhotos]

Here some from the Tuckers show and an older one with side pipes.

[61_FL_Apache]

Look at my build page and you will see my rear bag setup.. I don't have bags in the front yet.

[T Smith]

I just went straight to the frame with no cups for my rear bags. Used Slam 7's with some precut little plates top and bottom just because I had them and thought they might add some support to the bag endplates. I just drilled 3 holes in the frame, two 3/8" for the bolts and one 1" in the center for the air fitting. The bottom mount is a 3/8" grade 8 bolt through the existing hole in the trailing arm. The drilling is tough, get a couple of good bits, the frame is hard and thick!!

[losthope]

I know you said you dont want to c-notch but wanted to show anyone reading this thread how low you can go with just basic bolt in bag plates,bags , and bolt in c-notch and lowering blocks....heres a video of mine with a basic bolt in bag plates up front and basic bolt in c-notch in the rear with the bags just bolted to the frame and trailing arms with the pre-cut plates,and no cups in the stock spring location and 2" lowering blocks...i did raise the whole bed wood floor and wheel wells up a 1 1/2" to allow the rear end to sit all the way into the c-notch without the rear-end pumpkin hitting the bottom of the bed wood, also flipped and repositioned the center driveline carrier bearing mount to correct driveline angle at ride height, and relocated rear shocks:

Click picture to view video( I have manual paddle valves so my air bags are really slow):



This stance is about how low you can go with stock front spindles and bolt in bag plates, and the bed wood raised with a basic c-notch and bolt in bags in the rear with 2" lowering blocks.....if you want to go lower you will have to start doing extreme modifacations to the rear frame and front lower control arms or drop spindles,pancaked crossmember, or porter built stuff..









LOL and after doing all the work to get the truck lowered on bags, I drive around most of the time like this....SKY HIGH!