Finally after 25 YEARS !!! It's Mine!!!

[iehotrod]

[QUOTE=MalibuSSwagon;6032778]Go to Rockauto buddy, 16 gallon tanks are priced from $50 to 80 each. Likely the same tank you'd get from Brothers.[/QUOTE

Thank you MalibuSSwagon!

This is what I am doing for that price why mess with cleaning them.

[Claytona08]

I love the bed rails on it! I've been scanning Ebay looking for a set. Nice truck!

[iehotrod]

Really, Im not a fan. Have you seen any online? If so what are they worth?

Originally Posted by Claytona08

I love the bed rails on it! I've been scanning Ebay looking for a set. Nice truck!

[Claytona08]

Originally Posted by iehotrod

Really, Im not a fan. Have you seen any online? If so what are they worth?

I haven't found any yet so I'm not sure.
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[iehotrod]

Dang it, so after thinking about this a bit I went ahead and connected a clear rubber hose to the trans lines bypassing the radiator poured a little tide into the radiator to flush the trans fluid out of the cooling system. while it was running at idle I notice the fricken pink foaming fluid running thru the bypass hose. So I knew then rebuilding the trans is a must after sitting for a week with water.

But it does not end there.

As the engine ran at idle I sat in the drivers seat looking at the temp gauge making sure it did over heat. It never went pass 210 degrees. I came around the front and notice the drivers side exhuast manifold was cherry red. I quickly tried to shut the engine off and the dam thing would not cut off. I turn the key bank on, she kept running after two or three tries it finally turned off. I am left scratching my head if just last week I installed a new water pump and thermostat. Did the trans fluid kill the thermostat?

This is fricken pissing me off. I should have the engine rebuild along with the trans. OR I can just look for LS motor, OR simply have a 350 crate motor installed. I did like the fact that it is an original truck with all numbers matching even the numbers are poor 305 slug...

[hatzie]

She sat for 15 years.
A buddy bought a 66 Corvette in 1988 or 89 that sat in a barn for around 17 years. $1800 was not the screaming deal he originally thought he was getting but still pretty good with elbow grease and mail order parts. Gorgeous car after he reworked the engine, did some electrical, fuel system, clutch, shocks, and most of the rubber parts.
You're lucky she runs at all. That Vette didn't even stumble without a re-built carb and new fuel pump. Fuel, cooling, electrical are all on the list... Basically anything rubber or filled with fuel or water is suspect.
The red glowing manifold means she is running lean.

[iehotrod]

Thank you!!! Really, so I should just stop being lazy and tackle the fuel tanks first then the radiator and cooling system. So if the manifold turned red would there any chance it would blow a head gasket?

Originally Posted by hatzie

She sat for 15 years.
A buddy bought a 66 Corvette in 1988 or 89 that sat in a barn for around 17 years. $1800 was not the screaming deal he originally thought he was getting but still pretty good with elbow grease and mail order parts. Gorgeous car after he reworked the engine, did some electrical, fuel system, clutch, shocks, and most of the rubber parts.
You're lucky she runs at all. That Vette didn't even stumble without a re-built carb and new fuel pump. Fuel, cooling, electrical are all on the list... Basically anything rubber or filled with fuel or water is suspect.
The red glowing manifold means she is running lean.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by iehotrod

Thank you!!! Really, so I should just stop being lazy and tackle the fuel tanks first then the radiator and cooling system. So if the manifold turned red would there any chance it would blow a head gasket?

Lean mixtures can melt piston crowns. I wouldn't run it without fixing or replacing the carb.

[iehotrod]

Thanks Hatzie! I went ahead and followed your advise and pulled the carb out to have it rebuilt. I also took a pic of the strawberry milk in my trans cooler lines.

Originally Posted by hatzie

Lean mixtures can melt piston crowns. I wouldn't run it without fixing or replacing the carb.

[AJII]

Does it have a catalytic converter on it by any chance? If it's stopped up, it'll make the manifolds glow red.

[iehotrod]

It does still have them. I will have to look into it when I get my carb back.
Thank you for the tip.

Originally Posted by AJII

Does it have a catalytic converter on it by any chance? If it's stopped up, it'll make the manifolds glow red.

[Duster]

I would love to see that truck put back original. Custom Trucks of Texas original. I remember that conversion company.

[iehotrod]

Odds are against me.... Just spent $650 for a rebuilt transmission and $450 for R&R on the wife's suburban. Dam thing just went out again. The Transmission guy I bought it from blames the shop saying they must of NOT flushed the cooler lines and the trans cooler. The Shop of course states they did it with their machine and they blame the torque converter failing or just a half rebuilt. They both blame each other. The fluid is no longer red but charcoal grey. Their is some but not a lot of super fine material on the magnet. I was driving 55-65 MPH on the HWY and suddenly the rpms kept going up and down. Pulled over checked the fluid and was a little over the full line when hot and at idle.


Another $1,100 down the drain and taken from project funds.

[hatzie]

I think I'd consider a complete with the torque converter rebuilt from a reputable builder. Or a known good used unit. Couple either to a brand new external cooler if you can swing it.

Flush machines are evil. They can knock chunks of stuff loose in a used tranny and can blow seals in a new one. If someone tells you they use a flush machine run the other way.

It might cost more but the cheap rebuilds almost always get you right where you stand now. Cheap shops are usually very expensive when you have to fix the pothead mechanics' screw ups on your dime. I made that same mistake when I was younger. That's why I do most all my own work now. I hate to see someone else walk the same stretch of pavement.

[77dwh]

I sure do love all the false info on trans flushes.

[iehotrod]

Your right cheap $ usually ends up costing more, and it sure did.

Originally Posted by hatzie

I think I'd consider a complete with the torque converter rebuilt from a reputable builder. Or a known good used unit. Couple either to a brand new external cooler if you can swing it.

Flush machines are evil. They can knock chunks of stuff loose in a used tranny and can blow seals in a new one. If someone tells you they use a flush machine run the other way.

It might cost more but the cheap rebuilds almost always get you right where you stand now. Cheap shops are usually very expensive when you have to fix the pothead mechanics' screw ups on your dime. I made that same mistake when I was younger. That's why I do most all my own work now. I hate to see someone else walk the same stretch of pavement.

[iehotrod]

I came up this weekend. Went to Pomona Drag Races with my sons and stumbled across a billet dash instrument panel, brand new in the sealed plastic for only $20.00 and a brand new billet shift arm for $13.00. I had to go the bone yard and look for the steering I've been wanting to replace that ol GT Grant it was done. Found a clean steering wheel with the horn button for only $19.00.

I was wanting to just go with the stock aftermarket replacement panel cover but now, I think I have to just continue with the brushed billet on the passenger side of the dash and door panels.

also found a set four rally wheels on a van but they are 15x5 only $20 bucks a wheel. I knew it was a great deal since they all had the rings and center caps. But what's a deal if it's not what I really want.

[iehotrod]

More pics. New Inst. panel needs to screwed and arm will be installed when after I paint the truck.

[iehotrod]

I found these wheels on online for Sale for $350. A much better choice imo.