What welder should I get.

[tc4x4]

How big of a welder do I need to do ANY welding that will come up on my truck build? From welding thick frame pieces to welding thin body pieces. What welder should I get? Or would be best for this type of welding.

[Low84]

I bought a welder not too long ago, just getting around to learning how to weld. That said, obviously I don't have the knowledge to make a good recommendation. BUT I can tell you that Hobart is a good old fashioned company that stands behind their product 100%. It's actually a rebadged Miller.

[tinydb84]

The shop I used to have access to had this: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...olnElectric%29

Expensive but bad ass.

This will be the next welder I buy: http://www.hobartwelders.com/product...ed/handler190/

[tc4x4]

That hobart is nice. It says it welds up to 5/16 think. How think is a frame on one of our trucks?

[vidman]

If you are just buying it for your build there is no need to spend the big bucks on name brands. I have had good luck with the Miller and Hobart machines. The only thing that I do not like about the Hobart Handler is it has the 7 position voltage switch. Other machines like the Miller have a infinite voltage switch which some people prefer. Any 180 class Mig machine will work for your build. I have a miller maxstar 200 that I use for stick and tig, Millermatic 211 and a lincoln weld-pac 125. We use Miller machines at work and I feel it is a better all around machine..

[MadManAndrew]

I have a Hobart, hasn't failed me yet.
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[71swb4x4]

I have a Hobart 140 and it is awesome. I actually spent more money on my helmet than I did on my welder. I can buy a new welder if needed, tough to buy new eyes though!!!
If you want to weld frame you would do better with a 180. One of my clients has a 140 and he has built trailers and skid steer attachments with his, but he is VERY experienced with his welder. There isn't much room for error when using a 140 on heavy stuff, you have to know exactly what is going on.

[tinydb84]

The hobart will handle he frame with ease. I think ours our 3/16? and I know some people when boxing their frame go to 1/4

[VH Coachworks]

You can't go wrong with a Miller product, we have used Miller welders exclusively for the past 25+ years at our shop and couldn't be happier with them. Everything from plating, frame fab, body panels, and whatever else that we throw at them; the Miller will handle it's job with ease.

With that being said, I would recommend going with a 220V MIG unit. If your not an experienced welder, MIG is a lot easier to learn with then a Arc or Tig unit. Not to mention that it is much easier to control your heat dispersion with a MIG versus a Arc welder.

[Rochlow]

I bought a Hobart 140 about a year ago with a 250ci plasma. Did all my cab work with it and I love it!
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[wyattglock]

I used a Hobart 125 Handler for a full year before I finally found a Miller 140 Autoset on CL for a steal. The Miller is a Cadillac compared to the Hobart, but it is also 10 years newer and has a lot more technology integrated into it. Not to bash the Hobart, it was a steady performer with consistent results. The biggest thing I noticed that helps both of these 110v welders is an isolated circuit. I have a high amp 110v circuit that I put in my garage when I drywalled it. Makes a huge difference not having any other draw while using the welder.

[Kabwe]

If I were you, I would get a nice 220 welder. I have a Hobart 180 and I use it for everything from sheetmetal repair and fab to frame work. I have a Miller tig welder also but the Hobart is still my work horse.

[lahnen]

if your set up or able to set up 220v go with one of those, supposet to be easier on your electric bill also. i got a hobart 140 and i love it.

[Mr. 250r]

I've measured 1/2t and 3/4t frames and i never found them to be different they all come in at 3/16in i believe while the 1 tons come in at 1/4in and taller but not sure how much but onto your dilemma. Personally i would find something can weld about your max thickness so assuming your only ever going to weld... say 1/4in i wouldn't buy a welder that is maxed out at 1/4in but that's just me here is a thread with me reviewing the millermatic 211 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=560453, i haven't finished it and im still messing around with it and yes for small welding projects its expensive but i prefer miller as they have not let me down yet

[da_bears_da1]

Very happy with my Lincoln 180C.
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[jc70chevy]

love my weldmak 140 for small jobs like my cnotch

[vin63]

Not to get into a brand war, I have a 185 amp TIG welder that I use for most of my welding projects. I also have a 140 amp MIG welder of the same make/brand that I use for smaller sheet metal panel projects.

jc70chevy, is the weld for your C-notch above porous, or is it just the lighting during the photo (it looks like there are voids in the bead)? If it's porous, I would have that re-welded since it's your frame.

[ERASER5]

I am very happy with my Thermal Arc 3-1 181i. Out of the box it can Stick or MIG and can be upgraded to TIG.

[_Ogre]

i used a 120v fluxcore welder to do most of this



the thickest metal on a truck is 3/16 max, any 120 volt welder can weld 3/16 steel