Fed Up.. Door Pro's take a look

[72bigred]

Ok so I have been battling this door for more time then I would like to admit, thought I had it then nope etc etc.. Of course without the gasket it closes decent.. My gaps are ok as you can see from pics (put green tape in the back bit better to see) The door to body gab is a bit wide but around the window is as good as it gets with this door/cab.. door is adjar in pics so gab appears a bit wider also. Yet as you can see from pics..

The door is adjar with the new seal, I can push it in till its tight around the window but the back of the door sticks open 1/2.. the top front of the door comes in so fast that i believe it is causing problems.. As you can see by the knee knock area its kicked way out yet the top of the door is about closed..even when pushed closed hard the door hangs out 1/4 or better where the body line of the door hits the cab at the knee area. Of course the door itself is open 3/4 in the back in the pics. Front fender not locked in just hangin there forever.. waiting for adjustment.. The hinges are adjusted out as far as they get pulling the door away from the cab.

At first glance I thought hmm bottom of the door needs to go in.. yet it lines up just perfect without the seal..

I thought about shimming the hinge out a bit although that will create a larger gab at the knee knock corner.. I know seals can cause problems but this is just insane..

Just stumped.. beat up the new paint to the point im sick.. tired and well..

any ideas? Thanks

[72bigred]

more pics..

[Vernski]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=537217

Here is a link to a thread on doors check post #5 ...Vernski

[Hx16457]

I do not have the 60-63 but I feel you brotha!
I bought 3 different sets of door seals, & went through exactly what you described, on all 3 sets!
Here I had found a post that recommend Soft Seal, (3rd set). While that set was softer it was actually worse than the LMC set (1st set).
So I guess what I am saying is keep at it take lots of breaks (For peace of mind), try different name brands of seals ($ I know...). But at the end of the day you want your doors to close and seal, so spend the extra $, & time now.
I have heard this phrase on here as well so I'll repeat,
"Get them where you can live with them", also know that over time the seals will crush some and form to the adjustment you have!
Good luck, & you might invite a friend to provide a different perspective on adjustments!
Just saying... This was one of the most frustrating things along with the glass!
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[rideblue00]

lol Hx16457
"Get them where you can live with them"

that seems to be my lifes motto lately on my project

[BR3W CITY]

Fit them so it seems "equally" incorrect all the way around, then shut the door tightly and use a set of long carpenters clamps with a ton of padding on the feet. You can squeeze the seal another 14/-1/2" , then park it in the sun.

The rubber NEEDS to degrade a bit before it will work well as a door seal. After paint, we had to clamp mine shut in the sun for about 2-3 days (NOT glued in). Then we came back, glued it into place now that it was settled, and re-adjusted the door to take up the edges.

If you take a look at my build, we dealt with it right after paint during re-assembly

[sprinter11r]

the third set I put on my 64 were steele rubber company. I recommend them.

[Hx16457]

Originally Posted by rideblue00

lol Hx16457
"Get them where you can live with them"

that seems to be my lifes motto lately on my project

I wish I had said it but its true all the same.
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[Malibob]

The tolerances on these trucks were TERRIBLE. Keep this in mind when you are messing with the doors and seals especially. I have had the same problem on both of mine and the alignment on my replacement was better than the stock doors that were NEVER touched from the factory. I hate to say it is kind of luck but that is what it almost seems to be.

Most of your gaps are a lot better than from the factory if that makes you feel any better.

[Vernski]

Originally Posted by sprinter11r

the third set I put on my 64 were steele rubber company. I recommend them.

X2...Vernski http://www.steelerubber.com/

[JMR5]

Unfortunately im in the same boat as you on my newly acquired 60 gmc. Ive been messing with the doors for two weeks. This is a dumb question but could you take a pic of your door strikers? I want to mske sure thd prior owner had them on the right sides.
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[Vernski]

Originally Posted by JMR5

Unfortunately im in the same boat as you on my newly acquired 60 gmc. Ive been messing with the doors for two weeks. This is a dumb question but could you take a pic of your door strikers? I want to mske sure thd prior owner had them on the right sides.
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I really don't see how they could be mixed up and on backwards cause there is a right and left door striker and only one way to go on. But anything is possible my truck is a 65 GMC so it may be different. Someone out there should chime in with a pic of a 60 though it may take awhile. Do you have a factory manual it has a section on doors that helps allot? Good luck...Vernski

[JMR5]

No dont have a manual yet..need to pick one up. I was referring to the piece that bolts to the cab and could get mixef up...not the latch in the door itself.
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[luvbowties]

72bigred, I see clear signs that that door has been 're-designed'; signs are along the top--back-to-front; and front from top corner extending downward toward the knee-knocker corner; may be others that don't show up well in pics.
I think you should beg, borrow, or steal another door to try on. Doing so, I believe you will see immediate results. Having merely ONE area that misfits is problem enough; but yours seems to show several problematic areas, some which worsen others when the "some" are adjusted to lessen their misfit. This makes proper adjustment next to impossible--some call it dynamics vs. statics.

My tho'ts are somebody took shortcuts trying to make that door more nearly fit an opening where the 2 should have never been mated in the first place. Shortcuts I'm referring to are cutting(?), bending(?), shortening(?), lengthening(?)--all by then using excessive filler to conceal the still-existing misfit. They probably chose the easiest to re-form--the door instead of the cab, or who knows, maybe both!?

Working with a one-of-piece, made-to-fit by an amateur, is supposed to make one bang his head on an anvil. I know, $ is scarce around my house; but only my time has an absolute limit, so it still boils down to economics--of the time we have here on earth. Wish I had a good door that I could even donate to you to validate(or not?) my theory AND to reduce your head-banging on the anvil. PLEASE consider.

And, as another poster suggested, bring over a friend, preferably one knowledgeable in bondo/filler signs as well as what-to's and what-not-to's when using the stuff; secure his thoughts as to the extent of violations of the not-to's apparent in this particular door.

Seriously, just borrow one and quickly hang it just for a comparison. You'll know in a few minutes if it will profit you to get your own. My bet, obviously, is you'll be buying one!

Best of luck to you. You've already shown your perseverence, and it will not be giving up to discard a defective part in favor of a useable part.
HTH,
Sam

[Vernski]

Originally Posted by JMR5

No dont have a manual yet..need to pick one up. I was referring to the piece that bolts to the cab and could get mixef up...not the latch in the door itself.
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That's exactly what I was referring to was the strikers that bolt to the cab as you said in your previous post. Sounds like there is more to this story than what your saying as luvbowties said in his post, well ok good luck...Vernski

[72bigred]

Originally Posted by Vernski

That's exactly what I was referring to was the strikers that bolt to the cab as you said in your previous post. Sounds like there is more to this story than what your saying as luvbowties said in his post, well ok good luck...Vernski

I think this was a reply to someone highjacking the post? Best pay attention to who you are responding to as it was not me.. I personally have any and all manuals to these trucks, my strikers are not on backwards as they would then have to be upside down as any moron could easily tell.. Anyhow.. I personally stripped these doors and did all work to them, no modifications at all, clean no rust doors.. Not sure what was seen in the pics to make one think they had been modifed, also what I consider lack of knowledge.

The door itself closes and lines up decent without seals although sticks out a bit in the knee knock area, with seals it will not close at all.. I figured I would see if anyone had any idea's, basically its a seal problem as I have been told and possibly orig craftsmanship issue as these were bolt and go assembly plants.

I will degenerate the seals and see if that helps.

[JMR5]

Sorry for the thread hijack. Vernski had another post recently showing the different thickness of seals.

Good luck!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=582151
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[Vernski]

My apologies for that mixup but I quoted JMR5's post to answer his question. Your problem sounds like to thick of a seal and if you bought yours from across the pond to the west. Throw it away and get one at this link you'll be forever happy that you did. Then your door will close right an look as it should..Vernski

http://www.steelerubber.com/

[Sharps40]

I put in the LMC rubber door seals on my 65 C10. Closeing the doors is getting much easier now. But it takes a few slams from time to time. I spect they will continue to scrunch in a bit more and ease up. For the most part we're getting to where they shut first time most every time after a few weeks of use. No gap problems though, just a snug shut and a bit of extra strength in the ol thumb to pop the latch open.

[72bigred]

I use made in the USA as much as possible.. Steele is what I currently have and its not a seal problem..It might be adding a bit but I would expect it to be like the drivers.. Something is off. (the operator apparently)

[Vernski]

Originally Posted by 72bigred

I use made in the USA as much as possible.. Steele is what I currently have and its not a seal problem..It might be adding a bit but I would expect it to be like the drivers.. Something is off. (the operator apparently)

72-BR The hardest thing on these trucks for me is to aline the doors, I've done it so many different ways I couldn't count em' It really pays to have a helper to steady the door when you adjust it. Finding the sweet spot is the most frustrating thing I ever encountered, you just have to be persistent. Someone makes a cradle to go on a floor jack to hold the door, but I can't remember where I saw it now I should have bookmarked it. The factory service manual says when you adjust the door to take the striker plate off the cab, then adjust the door to their spec's then adjust the plate to the door. Sounds allot easier than I found it to though. If you have the Steele seal that's half the battle but you could have other things going on with the door and the cab I don't know. Just don't give up, go have a beer or soda and come back to it and try again. Good luck BR ...Vernski