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Old 06-06-2013, 12:23 AM   #1
bwilli2
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: West Jordan Utah
Posts: 95
Re: For those who've done the LS1 Swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by yossarian19 View Post
I put my engine cross member centerline at about 29" back from the end of the frame.
Be aware that you have four or five real obstacles here
1. The engine must be high enough that the crank pulley clears the factory front cross member.
2. The original trans cross member can *just* be cleared but your output shaft will point too high up. So the trans cross member has to go. I'm using a 57 I-6 & 4 speed truck converting to Vortec & 4L60E as reference here.
3. The truck style oil pan, if used, will be 3/4" or so above your stock tie rod if you put the motor just about anywhere. You can flip the tie rod under the steering arms to gain a little, but not a ton, of clearance.
3.5 - the F-body oil pan will give you limited clearance to the axle beam itself. Depending how hard you hit the bumpstops, you could probably contact the oil pan. You'd have to work at it though.
4. If you don't mind having the rear of the motor not serviceable OR you work sheet metal well enough to massage the firewall and get clearance, you can avoid #3 by pushing the motor another 3" back or so. Otherwise, you need to leave yourself space behind the motor so you can get to things like oil pressure senders, bell housing bolts, etc.
5. Fan clearance. You need a radiator and a fan ahead of the motor, so you can't be too far forward.

Using the CPP LS1 mount kit, I mounted the engine 27" back (frame rail's tip to leading edge of mounting plate) & as high as I could get it in the frame rail. The rectangular mounting plates were turned lengthwise with the frame to get it a little higher. Not much steering clearance but everything else is cake.
Thanks for the details! Just looking for a 'rough' starting point, and that's a good one. I'll be putting an LS1 out of a 2001 Camaro, and a 4L60E as well, so I've been thinking on how to account for the issues you've brought up.

I've been looking at a lot of trucks that have the engine right up against the firewall with 4 to 6 inches of empty space between the fan and radiator and I'm wanting to avoid that. Like you said, I'd like to keep things some what serviceable with the engine in the truck and the cab on.

I'm already planning on my steering work arounds. I'm a bit away from that point, but I am finish welding the new front and rear suspension members, so I'm 'almost' there.

Thanks again!
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