rear main seal

[1966FLEETSIDE]

do i need to raise engine to change rear main seal?i have an original 327 on my 66

[chevyrestoguy]

If memory serves me right, you should be able to remove the pan with the engine still in the mounts. I haven't done this job in a '60-'66, but have done it a '67-'72 and they should be pretty similar.

[Red65C10]

I did it with the engine still in. I did raise the engine some after breaking the mounts loose at the frame. It's still tight but can be done. Mine is a 350.
Hope this helps.
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[Rufton]

Sorry, unrelated jabber:
I can de-pan 1966 305E V6 w/o touching mounts. I did drop oil pump and had to clock crank to free pan. The 305E main seal is recessed deep (pan flange is flat all around). I wouldn't wanna try replacing 305E seal w/o removing crank. Of course other engines w/ half moon pan flange and 2 piece seals are sometimes easy to change.

[TxRat]

No, I just did the rear main on my 66 327. you may have to roll the crank some to clear the counter weights. I did not raise my engine at all. You'll have to drop the pump so the pan can clear the cross member and pump. Make sure you use the white shims that come with the rear seal so you don't shave the seal. Also oil up the seal before you put it in and clock the seal so the seam isn't flush with the rear main cap mating surface. one last thing, Put a little grease on the lip prioir to installation so you don't smoke the seal on initial start up. and retorque the rear cap!!!

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by TxRat

Make sure you use the white shims that come with the rear seal so you don't shave the seal. Also oil up the seal before you put it in and clock the seal so the seam isn't flush with the rear main cap mating surface. one last thing, Put a little grease on the lip prioir to installation so you don't smoke the seal on initial start up. and retorque the rear cap!!!

The above advice got me to thinking. I just installed a rear main seal (different engine) and saw a very thin (thin as paint) shaving of seal material come off the seal as I pushed it in. Do you think I need to buy a new seal and do it again? My kit didn't have any shims. "Clocking" the seal makes sense too and is something I didn't know about. Now you've made me nervous!!!!! LOL!

[Rufton]

I wouldn't redo if pan installed. Fresh seal should respond well to seal conditioner. Was old seal hardened and brittle?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Rufton

I wouldn't redo if pan installed. Fresh seal should respond well to seal conditioner. Was old seal hardened and brittle?

Engine is still on the stand and the pan is off. I can get a new one in in under 10 minutes. The old seal was hard. I'd sure hate to have a leak. The new seal felt VERY snug as I slipped it in and I used RTV where it mates to the other half.

[Rufton]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Engine is still on the stand and the pan is off. I can get a new one in in under 10 minutes. The old seal was hard. I'd sure hate to have a leak. The new seal felt VERY snug as I slipped it in and I used RTV where it mates to the other half.

In that case I would invest the 10 minutes.

[1966FLEETSIDE]

geez seems kinda difficult,i never done that before.but i guess thats the only way i will learn.

[1966FLEETSIDE]

thx txrat .did it stop the leak.i was told some seals keep on leaking after you change them.on this particular type???