67-72 LSX engine mouting options

[elsamillerautobody]

I am in the process of deciding how I want to mount my 5.3l in my 72 c10. I have done 2 lsx swaps already, one in a 51 Jeep willys wagon, and one in a 86 k10. I weled the stock motor mounts to the frame of the 86 and used transdapt universal mounts for the willys. I know you can get plates to adapt the ls engine to the stock mount, but what I don't like about it (as far ad I understand) is that it mounts the engine way to far forward in my opinion, and it seems like it mounts it rather low. Where I have the engine sitting seems fine to me, but its higher and further back that what the adapter plates would be. I see no reason it cant be back close to the firewall, and there is plenty of hood clearance (want to get it high as possible as it is a mild air bag setup to clear oil pan from the ground) Has anyone else had this thought? This is my first post and want to get opinions. I have a plasma cutter and a welder and can make almost anything. Motor mounts are cheap...and want to get input before I put hours into making mounts. Thoughts are greatly appreciated! https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

[502ms]

I have mine 3" forward to make the best use of the mounting of my transmission, driveshaft and everything associated. Still plenty of room for my radiator and hoses.
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[Xeen]

After doing mine just recently I definately have a recommendation.
Ok so the issues you will be dealing with assume the following.
1) Radiator and electric fan clearance.
2) Stock location AC compressor bracket clearance.

So to accomplish this you will need to do the following.
1) Fabricate a 2" forward adapter plate that just clears the AC compressor bracket - I can mail you a pattern.
2) Buy CPP tubular engine perches, or fabricate your own and instal them 2" behind the v8 mounting location, this will put the engine in it's stock location.
3) Buy CPP poly motor mounts.
4) Buy Doug Thorley THY-324Y-C Headers. http://dougthorleyheaders.com/produc...productID/1029
5) Buy a Lokar ED-5021 flexible engine dipstick which is made specifically for those Doug Thorley Headers.
6) If your truck had a factory standard transmission permanently remove the intermediate crossmember.
7) You will need to fabricate your own brake lines from the proportioning valve down to the T-connector and to the rear connector.

This is just one way to do it, you can use Dirty Dingo adjustable adapter plates and a different brand engine perches and motor mounts that I can't think of right off the top of my head as well, but 502ms knows what brands they are I'm sure he would tell you if you asked.