mentally preparing for front suspension work - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

JointTech · 05-23-2013, 05:08 PM

im replacing all my front steering/suspension parts.
tierods, control arms, ball joints, pitman, idler, coil springs

I know its not going to be easy getting the old stuff out. Im planning on soaking with pb blaster for a few days before starting.

The one thing Im not sure of is the control arms and or spring holders. Are they rivetted in? Am I going to have to use a cutoff tool for any of that stuff?

trying to mentally prepare for any scarey sparks im going to have to deal with.

54belair · 05-23-2013, 07:05 PM

No cut off tools required!! Depending on condition--some kind of penetrating oil would be good.
Its not that bad of a job--just takes some time.
I replaced everything on mine this spring--the only thing I had trouble with was lower ball joints----and that was my fault for ordering them from a big truck supplier!&?--should have just gone to oriellys in the first place and got the correct part.
Replacing the springs is the hardest--just rent the correct compressors.
Good luck,,,

Lattimer · 05-23-2013, 07:53 PM

Its not all that bad. Steering stuff is pretty straightforward. Lower ball joints aren't bad if you have or rent the right tool.

Pickle fork on a pneumatic hammer works well for the tie rod ends and the ball joints.
If the uppers re original they are riveted, so you will need to either chisel or grind those off. I used a chisel.

I didn't need a compressor for the springs, old ones were shot and 2" lowering springs fit right in. I just used my floor jack under the control arm.

I just did all of mine a few weeks ago---so its all fresh in my mind.

BigCountryx · 05-23-2013, 08:34 PM

BFH is the easiest way to separate ball joints from spindle. Pickle fork is biggest mistake people make. Soak it down with Gibbs Brand or PB Blaster the day before. Whack the crap out of the side of the spindle at the BJ and let the spring separate them from the spindle. Remember to leave the nut partially on to keep things from blowing apart.
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rogergodding · 05-23-2013, 08:39 PM

Did mine back in 99, no spring compressor, just used a floor jack..... the hardest part was the rivets that hold the upper ball joints in.... only had an electric drill back then

PanelDeland · 05-23-2013, 09:23 PM

If you're doing the control arms new don't worry about it.Just take them and have the ball joints pressed in before you install them.If you're reusing them and doing the bushings also have it all assembled at the machine shop(our local CARQUEST has one in house).Star now with the PB blaster or Kroil.By the time you do it everything should come off fairly easy.
This is like eating an elephant,just take one bite at a time.

JointTech · 05-23-2013, 09:45 PM

im trying to decide on new arms or just doing the bushings.
my parts house didnt see the full arms just the repair kits.
all the arms I see at brothers are for C10s which have the rubber bushings instead of the C20 style.

thanks for the tips guys. Gotta do the tankless water heater this weekend before my old water heater turns into a bomb so suspension will have to wait until next weekend.

**MidLifer** · 05-23-2013, 09:55 PM

I did mine (3/4 ton) this spring. It wasnt hard, but it was dirty and time-comsuming. I found fully loaded comtrol arms on Rockauto. Dorman OEM. Everything else I used was Moog.

I spent an extra few bucks and bought new sleeves for the tie rods. That way I could set them like the old ones and the drive to the alignment shop was easy.

Be sure to chain the coils to the LCA before busting the ball joints off, and be careful to clock the springs correctly whe you put them back in. There is a notch in the control arm that the spring arm dead ends into.

Have fun!
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JointTech · 05-23-2013, 09:58 PM

cant be any dirtyier than the transmission and brakes Ive been working on. I long for a little rust if I dont have to smell tranny fluid.

JointTech · 06-08-2013, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MidLifer

I did mine (3/4 ton) this spring. It wasnt hard, but it was dirty and time-comsuming. I found fully loaded comtrol arms on Rockauto. Dorman OEM. Everything else I used was Moog.

I spent an extra few bucks and bought new sleeves for the tie rods. That way I could set them like the old ones and the drive to the alignment shop was easy.

Be sure to chain the coils to the LCA before busting the ball joints off, and be careful to clock the springs correctly whe you put them back in. There is a notch in the control arm that the spring arm dead ends into.

Have fun!
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How did those dormans look/feel compared to the one you took out? same weight?

**MidLifer** · 06-08-2013, 08:32 AM

Yep.
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Rufton · 06-08-2013, 09:33 AM

I didn't notice is anyone mentioned to count turns when removing tie rods. Take notes of UCA shims used if any. Take notes of LCA cam position if applicable. The hardest part I've run into is separating ball joints; one was really stubborn. 66 PA required 1 5/16" socket. Find torque specs. Make sure PA is clocked correct. Check rag joint if applicable. Make sure lower ball joint zerk works correct; mine leaks around the 1" disc and I have yet to figure a fix.

BigRed76 · 06-08-2013, 10:37 PM

If you leave the shocks on you can disconnect the spindle from the lower ball joint first because the shock will hold the lca and spring in place, then you can support the lower control arm with a floor jack and go from there. and the rivets on the upper ball joints come off pretty easy with an air hammer...

tmc1986 · 06-09-2013, 12:53 AM

I just did my front end a few weeks ago. If you have original ball joints then plan on using a cutting wheel or something like that to cut the heads off the rivets on be upper ball joints. And the. Do yourself a favor and buy or rent a ball joint press. I tried to beat mine in and it didn't work. I know it's stupid to try but I didn't have a press
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JointTech · 06-12-2013, 02:47 AM

got all my new parts

asolde · 06-12-2013, 05:49 AM

Well the first thing you did right was to buy good parts. Have fun!

JointTech · 06-25-2013, 12:02 AM

man that was a nightmare. Started friday around 1 and just finished.

so ready to get away I didnt even get a picture of all the tierods and drag link installed.

If you have a place to do it and can go off and on when you feel like it I might try this again. Ill never do it in a parking lot waiting for the property managers to harrass me though.

The upper ball joints were a real nightmare. banged, cut, heated, air chisel and beat it some more before they finally came out of the control arms. Bottoms weren't bad at all with the rented press.

My compressor sucks so it was a minute hear and a minute there blasting all the spindles and control arms. took forever.

any hoo I still have to take it to the alignment shop because it turns farther to the right than the left and it drags a wheel on a tight turn. just from driving in the parking lot its 100x more responsive and stable now though. feels like a new truck.

I put in a new steering gear while I was in there as well. dont want to ever use a pickle fork again.

05-23-2013, 05:08 PM	#1
JointTech Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 1,856	mentally preparing for front suspension work im replacing all my front steering/suspension parts. tierods, control arms, ball joints, pitman, idler, coil springs I know its not going to be easy getting the old stuff out. Im planning on soaking with pb blaster for a few days before starting. The one thing Im not sure of is the control arms and or spring holders. Are they rivetted in? Am I going to have to use a cutoff tool for any of that stuff? trying to mentally prepare for any scarey sparks im going to have to deal with. __________________ 72 C20 Long Bed SB350 TH400 14 bolt rear end Extremely boring build thread

05-23-2013, 07:05 PM	#2
54belair Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: bolivar, mo Posts: 839	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work No cut off tools required!! Depending on condition--some kind of penetrating oil would be good. Its not that bad of a job--just takes some time. I replaced everything on mine this spring--the only thing I had trouble with was lower ball joints----and that was my fault for ordering them from a big truck supplier!&?--should have just gone to oriellys in the first place and got the correct part. Replacing the springs is the hardest--just rent the correct compressors. Good luck,,, __________________ 1997 shortie stepside 1968 short stepside 1966 mustang 1966 chevelle ss Dont always go the cheapest route--You can save yourself into the poorhouse! My Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=489030

05-23-2013, 07:53 PM	#3
Lattimer Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Mickleton, NJ Posts: 1,776	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work Its not all that bad. Steering stuff is pretty straightforward. Lower ball joints aren't bad if you have or rent the right tool. Pickle fork on a pneumatic hammer works well for the tie rod ends and the ball joints. If the uppers re original they are riveted, so you will need to either chisel or grind those off. I used a chisel. I didn't need a compressor for the springs, old ones were shot and 2" lowering springs fit right in. I just used my floor jack under the control arm. I just did all of mine a few weeks ago---so its all fresh in my mind. __________________ Shawn 1970 Chevy C-10 SWB, 350, TKO 600 5 speed My build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=559881

05-23-2013, 08:34 PM	#4
BigCountryx Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Gonzales, LA Posts: 779	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work BFH is the easiest way to separate ball joints from spindle. Pickle fork is biggest mistake people make. Soak it down with Gibbs Brand or PB Blaster the day before. Whack the crap out of the side of the spindle at the BJ and let the spring separate them from the spindle. Remember to leave the nut partially on to keep things from blowing apart. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 1972 Pale Yella 2WD Blazer ..... 350HO/700R4.... '68 Clipped 1970 Original Paint SWB Farm Truck ..... 5.3/4L80.... 2x HRPT Participant

05-23-2013, 08:39 PM	#5
rogergodding Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Sachse, Texas Posts: 614	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work Did mine back in 99, no spring compressor, just used a floor jack..... the hardest part was the rivets that hold the upper ball joints in.... only had an electric drill back then

05-23-2013, 09:23 PM	#6
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work If you're doing the control arms new don't worry about it.Just take them and have the ball joints pressed in before you install them.If you're reusing them and doing the bushings also have it all assembled at the machine shop(our local CARQUEST has one in house).Star now with the PB blaster or Kroil.By the time you do it everything should come off fairly easy. This is like eating an elephant,just take one bite at a time. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

05-23-2013, 09:45 PM	#7
JointTech Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 1,856	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work im trying to decide on new arms or just doing the bushings. my parts house didnt see the full arms just the repair kits. all the arms I see at brothers are for C10s which have the rubber bushings instead of the C20 style. thanks for the tips guys. Gotta do the tankless water heater this weekend before my old water heater turns into a bomb so suspension will have to wait until next weekend. __________________ 72 C20 Long Bed SB350 TH400 14 bolt rear end Extremely boring build thread

05-23-2013, 09:55 PM	#8
MidLifer Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South NJ Posts: 1,265	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work I did mine (3/4 ton) this spring. It wasnt hard, but it was dirty and time-comsuming. I found fully loaded comtrol arms on Rockauto. Dorman OEM. Everything else I used was Moog. I spent an extra few bucks and bought new sleeves for the tie rods. That way I could set them like the old ones and the drive to the alignment shop was easy. Be sure to chain the coils to the LCA before busting the ball joints off, and be careful to clock the springs correctly whe you put them back in. There is a notch in the control arm that the spring arm dead ends into. Have fun! Posted via Mobile Device

05-23-2013, 09:58 PM	#9
JointTech Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 1,856	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work cant be any dirtyier than the transmission and brakes Ive been working on. I long for a little rust if I dont have to smell tranny fluid. __________________ 72 C20 Long Bed SB350 TH400 14 bolt rear end Extremely boring build thread

06-08-2013, 08:32 AM	#11
MidLifer Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South NJ Posts: 1,265	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work Yep. Posted via Mobile Device

06-08-2013, 09:33 AM	#12
Rufton Registered User Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Knoxville TN Posts: 1,170	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work I didn't notice is anyone mentioned to count turns when removing tie rods. Take notes of UCA shims used if any. Take notes of LCA cam position if applicable. The hardest part I've run into is separating ball joints; one was really stubborn. 66 PA required 1 5/16" socket. Find torque specs. Make sure PA is clocked correct. Check rag joint if applicable. Make sure lower ball joint zerk works correct; mine leaks around the 1" disc and I have yet to figure a fix.

06-08-2013, 10:37 PM	#13
BigRed76 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Loveland, CO Posts: 1,921	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work If you leave the shocks on you can disconnect the spindle from the lower ball joint first because the shock will hold the lca and spring in place, then you can support the lower control arm with a floor jack and go from there. and the rivets on the upper ball joints come off pretty easy with an air hammer... __________________ Zach 1970 Chevrolet Custom Camper K20 1971 GMC Super K2500, 12V/NV4500 swap in progress 1971 Chevrolet Custom C10 1972 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe C20, 5.3/4L60E 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 455/TH400, 3.73 posi 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD, LB7/Allison, CCSB 2005 GMC Sierra 1500, 5.3/4L60E, CCSB

06-09-2013, 12:53 AM	#14
tmc1986 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: enumclaw, wa Posts: 143	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work I just did my front end a few weeks ago. If you have original ball joints then plan on using a cutting wheel or something like that to cut the heads off the rivets on be upper ball joints. And the. Do yourself a favor and buy or rent a ball joint press. I tried to beat mine in and it didn't work. I know it's stupid to try but I didn't have a press Posted via Mobile Device __________________ '67 2wd LWB 350/4speed.

06-12-2013, 02:47 AM	#15
JointTech Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 1,856	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work got all my new parts __________________ 72 C20 Long Bed SB350 TH400 14 bolt rear end Extremely boring build thread

06-12-2013, 05:49 AM	#16
asolde Registered User Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Henderson Nevada Posts: 804	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work Well the first thing you did right was to buy good parts. Have fun!



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06-25-2013, 12:02 AM	#17
JointTech Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 1,856	Re: mentally preparing for front suspension work man that was a nightmare. Started friday around 1 and just finished. so ready to get away I didnt even get a picture of all the tierods and drag link installed. If you have a place to do it and can go off and on when you feel like it I might try this again. Ill never do it in a parking lot waiting for the property managers to harrass me though. The upper ball joints were a real nightmare. banged, cut, heated, air chisel and beat it some more before they finally came out of the control arms. Bottoms weren't bad at all with the rented press. My compressor sucks so it was a minute hear and a minute there blasting all the spindles and control arms. took forever. any hoo I still have to take it to the alignment shop because it turns farther to the right than the left and it drags a wheel on a tight turn. just from driving in the parking lot its 100x more responsive and stable now though. feels like a new truck. I put in a new steering gear while I was in there as well. dont want to ever use a pickle fork again. __________________ 72 C20 Long Bed SB350 TH400 14 bolt rear end Extremely boring build thread

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