Moving Engine position forward on 4wd

[tjsblazer]

Hey, I have been gathering parts to do a driveline swap to a 5spd. I had planned on moving the Engine ahead to the front holes (about 3 inches) to help with the overall driveline length and shifter position of the NV4500. I pretty sure that is where 2wd Engine crossmembers mounted from the factory. I am noticing now that the front differential is going to be very close to the cross member / oil pan (probably why 4wd were set further back). All the threads I can find look like the trucks had lifts (4 inch or more) in them when they moved the Engine forward. I am planning on doing it with stock ride height. Has anyone else moved the engine forward to the 2wd mounting position on a 4wd truck with stock ride height? Mine is actually a K5 but I know trucks are basically the same in this area. thanks for any insight.

[jocko]

excellent question - subscribed. Good point about lifts. If/when I get a K10, planning on a 2004R swap and this is exactly what I was planning on doing - at stock ride height also.

[SS Tim]

There actually a lot of different ways to approach this. First off do you have an engine in your blazer on stock springs now to look at and measure? Is your blazer a factory manual or auto trans? How are you adapting it (NV4500) to your engine? Are you going to use the stock small block footprint or something else? Ae you planning a winch or non-factory bumper?

The holes are 3.86" further fwd IIRC. The factory did use the rear 6 cyl holes for differential clearance. A lot is going to depend on what you are planning and if your "stock height" is really stock height or what your springs have sagged to. In any case I would use the heavier front K20 springs simply due to the weight transfer.

[DeadheadNM]

In the K20 build thread linked in my signature I have some pics of the engine x-member location relative the the front diff after moving it forward 1.75" or so to accommodate a 700r4. Springs are stock ride height. It's close. Can grab more pics if need be...

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

There actually a lot of different ways to approach this. First off do you have an engine in your blazer on stock springs now to look at and measure? Is your blazer a factory manual or auto trans? How are you adapting it (NV4500) to your engine? Are you going to use the stock small block footprint or something else? Ae you planning a winch or non-factory bumper?

transfer.

I don't currently have the correct springs in the truck. So measuring is not accurate. It currently has a 4 inch lift, however, I would like to return to a factory ride height or very close to it. so springs will be fresh. Motor will not be stock (it will be a 383 stroker), however that era of block so same in that regard. Factory bumpers, no winches or anything like that. Aside from the 5spd and stronger motor / driveline it will be fairly factory. I plan on bolting the NV4500 directly to a newer round style NP205 using a short input to minimize the driveline length. My wanting to move the Engine position forward is strickly to ensure the 5spd shifter and transfer case shifter will both line up somewhere in the factory floor cover and not have interference to the console in any position. I was thinking I would have to move the Engine forward somewhat to ensure that ?!?

[SS Tim]

Pretty sure I have this information or links to it I just need to find it. Now the transfer case was a fixed location are you planning on having the case in the stock location? Is your blazer, again, a factory manual or automatic? Given you are gathering parts, are you planning on using the chevy hydraulic clutch bellhousing or the stock mechanical clutch and bellhousing with an adapter plate and the dodge NV4500? Novak and Advance Adapters have a lot of information and well worth looking around.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

In the K20 build thread linked in my signature I have some pics of the engine x-member location relative the the front diff after moving it forward 1.75" or so to accommodate a 700r4. Springs are stock ride height. It's close. Can grab more pics if need be...

Hey I just reviewed this thread. Awesome looking truck by the way. I did see a couple of pictures from the front. Do you have any from the side to show how the x-member sits above the diff from that view. Also, have you decided on what your using for a fan shroud yet? thanks for the links and info.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Hey I just reviewed this thread. Awesome looking truck by the way. I did see a couple of pictures from the front. Do you have any from the side to show how the x-member sits above the diff from that view. Also, have you decided on what your using for a fan shroud yet? thanks for the links and info.

Thanks! I'll try to snap some more pics next time at the shop for you but the wheels are on and get in the way IIRC. Will do my best and will try to get a measurement(s) also. I'm going to bolt the 4wd shroud in and see what clearance I have. I'm told the 2wd shroud would come up short but that I may be able accomodate by using a spacer. The radiator should be back very soon. Keep an eye on the build thread for an update on the shroud....

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Pretty sure I have this information or links to it I just need to find it. Now the transfer case was a fixed location are you planning on having the case in the stock location? Is your blazer, again, a factory manual or automatic? Given you are gathering parts, are you planning on using the chevy hydraulic clutch bellhousing or the stock mechanical clutch and bellhousing with an adapter plate and the dodge NV4500? Novak and Advance Adapters have a lot of information and well worth looking around.

It is currently an auto TH350. I already have the round pattern NP205 and have leads on 2 different 99 GM NV4500 both with the bellhousing with internal slave. That is the route I am planning on going right now. I know some don't like the internal slave in case they fail, they are more difficult to change and can foul the clutch but mine will be all new parts, easy to install as it is a total frame off resto and a summer weekend cruiser only which means only 6 months of the year up here where I live so it should last me forever. So there should be no need for any adapters at either the bellhousing end or tranny X transfer case end. I plan to direct bolt with the short transfer case input. I am flexible on mounting position I just want to get the transmission shifter and transfer case shifter in the tunnel opening in the floor and not have interference to the console with either shifter in any position. I understand I will have to fab a transfer case shifter bracket and modify the hole locations for the shifters on the hump cover. I will also need new driveshafts (I am redoing all of the driveline anyway due to the higher torque motor). I am assuming moving forward as far as I can without getting engine interference at the front diff is going to be the best position and I want the truck to sit as close to factory ride height as possible. I appreciate everyone's experience and insight. I plan on starting teardown and fitting in a couple of months. I am currently in the parts and info gathering stage.

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Thanks! I'll try to snap some more pics next time at the shop for you but the wheels are on and get in the way IIRC. Will do my best and will try to get a measurement(s) also. I'm going to bolt the 4wd shroud in and see what clearance I have. I'm told the 2wd shroud would come up short but that I may be able accomodate by using a spacer. The radiator should be back very soon. Keep an eye on the build thread for an update on the shroud....

That would be awesome for any additional pictures. I will check in on your build thread for sure. Appreciate all the info and experience.

[Bigdav160]

Subscribed! I do not know anything about this swap but I had similar questions about swapping a 4L60 for the TH350 in my Suburban.

I have 2" Tuff Country springs in my truck and there is no clearance issues. With the stock springs it would be close. Then there is the engine damper and PS pump. There will be clearance problems with the front crossmember. I've heard some people say to just flip it around. I think I'll get the plasma cutter out and notch it. Since you are moving everything forward even more, the 4x4 fan shroud will be useless.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

Subscribed! I do not know anything about this swap but I had similar questions about swapping a 4L60 for the TH350 in my Suburban.

I have 2" Tuff Country springs in my truck and there is no clearance issues. With the stock springs it would be close. Then there is the engine damper and PS pump. There will be clearance problems with the front crossmember. I've heard some people say to just flip it around. I think I'll get the plasma cutter out and notch it. Since you are moving everything forward even more, the 4x4 fan shroud will be useless.

What model tranny is in your Suburban?

[Bigdav160]

Currently 350/TH350/205 w 3.73:1 final drive gears

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

Subscribed! I do not know anything about this swap but I had similar questions about swapping a 4L60 for the TH350 in my Suburban.

I have 2" Tuff Country springs in my truck and there is no clearance issues. With the stock springs it would be close. Then there is the engine damper and PS pump. There will be clearance problems with the front crossmember. I've heard some people say to just flip it around. I think I'll get the plasma cutter out and notch it. Since you are moving everything forward even more, the 4x4 fan shroud will be useless.

Interesting. Going to have to get the tape measure out again on the weekend and check out all the accessories.

BTW: Like you avatar. Love the mid-years. I have a '67 also.

[Bigdav160]

Here's a couple more pics of the stock location with 2" springs