07-05-2013, 10:06 PM | #26 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New York City
Posts: 648
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Re: Getting shafted?
Quote:
I mentioned in an earlier message that Nate and Dave at Porterbuilt said 5 degrees would be ideal, but 6 was the only thing attainable...possibly due to the I6 rather than everyone's familiarity with achieving 5 degrees with a V8. Maybe I should have just built a tunnel instead, although I don't weld. We'll have to see what the longevity is like with what I'm running. I'm attaching the list I was given by the driveshaft guy. I asked for a receipt with parts listed and a price breakdown explaining how this adds up to $1,000, and only received this list. He then said if I wanted to see prices I would have to get it from the "friend" who was installing the suspension, because "My business is with him, and his business is with me, not you. I built the shaft for him." I informed him that it was built for ME and I was the one who paid him. My so called "friend" then responded cowardly via text that HE would also not give me a receipt for the same reason. Tony, as Brad mentioned, I, and from what I've seen with a number of others with similarly dropped trucks, was going this route rather than building a tunnel in the cab to continue using a one piece. Quote:
Where's HartRod? He wanted a bump for pics! |
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07-08-2013, 05:03 PM | #27 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wichita ks
Posts: 100
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Re: Getting shafted?
Drive shafts are pricey that's for sure just took mine down to get it built and all together its going to be 500 for my 2piece.
Shorten first shaft,3 new spicer u-joints , billet carrier bearing, slip joint and heavy duty yoke on 2 nd shaft and balanced. Didnt really want the billet bearing but the driveline shop said since I put in a slip joint the cheap carrier bearing doest hold up well with the movement/pressure of the slip joint moving back and forth. Posted via Mobile Device |
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