Brake drag

[dubie]

I've got this CPP brake kit that we finally bled the entire system out on today. I am finding that the front pads drag a little to much. Is this common? Am I just going to have to drive it and wear them down or should I be taking some course sand paper to them and knocking them down a bit?
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[meter swinger]

Can you turn them by hand? I used to have a tough time with front pads on a 78 gmc. Only one brand would fit right and even then without backing plates. What kind of brake calipers does the cpp kit use (obviously gm)? Maybe they cheaped out on the pads? As long as they aren't so tight theyll heat up and warp the rotors i wouldn't sweat it to much, other than make the shakedown run really short.
If you cant turn them at all i would sand them or try different pads.
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[magicoolbus]

I have the same problem. Subscribed.

[mknittle]

It seems I read quite a bit of not so good things where CPP is mentioned.

[franken]

Just general observations, no direct experience on CPP stuff...
Disk brakes drag by design.
Crack a bleeder screw to see if the system is applying pressure with no foot on the pedal. It can happen.
A dick brake wheel/rotor, will probably not turn 360* when spun by hand.

[mr48chev]

I'd say that Franken nailed it. disk brakes always have a bit of drag as that is how they are set up to work. With no springs to pull the pads off the rotor they drag on the rotor.

If you find that you have pressure at the caliper when none is applied you might have the wrong residual vales or a drum brake master cylinder with a residual valve built in behind the seat where the brake line screws in.

[parkwood]

One more thing to look for is where the m/c and booster are bolted together.. if the rod in the booster is to long it will put pressure on the m/c and cause the brakes to drag. It doesn't take much to cause this.. the rod in the booster is just a screw with a locking nut. I think CCP sells a tool to set this but i've made one..

[dubie]

Everything spins by hand, but not a full 360. Then you apply the brakes and she stops in a millisecond, so everything is working the way it should. I thought I should be able to spin the rotors a lot more but by the sounds if it, this is normal. That's good news because now, all the brakes are done. Thanks the input eh
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[Rufton]

I run front disc brakes w/o residual pressure valve and like it.
Stops great, minimal drag and easy to gravity bleed.

[mr48chev]

I think you have about right Dubie, As long as you don't smell hot brakes when you haven't been using the brakes that much you are good. If you drive it ten miles down the highway and coast to a gentle stop with gently applied brakes and you smell hot brakes you have a problem but if they aren't smelling hot like they have been dragging excessively there isn't a problem. Braking at the last second to dive into stops will cause any brakes to be hot though.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by parkwood

One more thing to look for is where the m/c and booster are bolted together.. if the rod in the booster is to long it will put pressure on the m/c and cause the brakes to drag. It doesn't take much to cause this.. the rod in the booster is just a screw with a locking nut. I think CCP sells a tool to set this but i've made one..

my rear disc brakes drug when i first got truk on the road
i had set up my brakes with the cab on, then removed it for body work
between frame and body work, when i placed the cab it was depressing the brake pedal just a bit
i was able to grind an eighth of an inch off the bolt diameter to eliminate the drag