07-17-2013, 11:28 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Guntersville, AL
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Frame condition
I started teraing down my '84 K20 and I knew the frame had some rust on the back half and didn't think it was too bad. I just want to get some opinions from those who have down frame -off's before. If I decide to keep this frame it will be blasted and either painted with a very good chassis paint or powder coated. From where the bed set on the frame rusting out and the mud staying on there for no telling how long it has pit the metal and I'm wondering if it's worth my time and money or to cut down a 1-ton crew cab frame I have that can be in perfect shape with minimal work. The pics of where I cleaned a few spots so you could see the shape of the frame were cleaned off by a wore out wire wheel. Please give me your honest opinions and which route you would take if this was your truck and you were wanting to do a frame-off.
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07-17-2013, 11:31 AM | #2 |
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Re: Frame condition
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07-17-2013, 01:52 PM | #3 |
Robert Olson Transport
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Re: Frame condition
id use it if its real thin or rotted apart then id change or repair as necessary
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Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!! |
07-17-2013, 02:14 PM | #4 |
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Re: Frame condition
It is not thin or rotted anywhere I have found yet. Pretty much from the cab forward has been preserved by oil and grease!
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07-17-2013, 02:19 PM | #5 |
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Location: New Lowell, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Frame condition
It looks very good compared to some I have seen. Once you sandblast it and give it a few good coats of paint it will be fine I am sure.
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BRIAN 1986 Chevrolet K20 Silverado 12 Valve CUMMINS P Pumped Intercooled/Getrag360/Divorced NP205/10B/14BFF Detroit Locker - DD Canadian Winter Beater. My Chevrolet CUMMINS Build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=585509 |
07-17-2013, 04:10 PM | #6 |
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Location: east troy, WI
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Re: Frame condition
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07-17-2013, 04:18 PM | #7 |
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Re: Frame condition
I know it's not worst case scenario but the frame I have off a crew cab and my '76 C10 are just about perfect. If I'm going to spend $10-$15k on a rebuild I just want to make sure it's worth messing with. Now I just got to figure out something to do with this crew cab frame, I hate to scrap it.
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07-17-2013, 04:30 PM | #8 |
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Re: Frame condition
looks good to me, not perfect, but good to re-use, just check behind the fuel tank mounts b/c I have seen a few rust out there, when the rest of the frame looked good.
-Sam
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1987 Chevy R30 CC 454/4spd Work Truck 1979 Chevy K10 SWB 350/4spd/NP205, 1979 Chevy C10 LWB 350/TH350 Project 1981 Chevy K30 350/Th400/NP205 1986 Chevy K30 CUCV 6.2L/TH400/NP208 |
07-17-2013, 04:45 PM | #9 |
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Re: Frame condition
I will check it out, I plan on pressure washing it sometime this week and the starting ripping off the rest of the body soon.
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07-17-2013, 04:53 PM | #10 |
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Location: east troy, WI
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Re: Frame condition
Do you have any up close up pictures of the cross over fuel lines?
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07-17-2013, 05:04 PM | #11 |
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Re: Frame condition
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07-17-2013, 05:12 PM | #12 |
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Location: east troy, WI
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Re: Frame condition
If they are still there I'll take some pictures of the crew cab set up! Mine is a crew cab!
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07-17-2013, 07:06 PM | #13 |
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Re: Frame condition
If a needle scaler doesn't blow holes through it, I'd just seal it up good and call it a day.
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1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, turbo, LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate |
07-17-2013, 09:25 PM | #14 |
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Location: east troy, WI
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Re: Frame condition
What do you recommend for paint? I'm currently doing this. I am putting down Rustoleum Rust Metal Primer and was gonna cover it with Rustoleum Stops Rust flat black. Any one see any problems with that? I'm not looking for factory perfect, just not nasty ass old rusty truck.
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07-18-2013, 06:31 AM | #15 |
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Location: Memphis MI
Posts: 1,851
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Re: Frame condition
That would be a good frame here in Michigan.
As far as paint, there are dozens of threads about it. Rustoleum is not as good as it used to be (they took out the fish oil that was the real secret). But for a frame, it's nice because you can touch it up cheap and easy. Seems many are using Rust Bullet or Chassis Saver. You might want to consider semi gloss, it's easier to clean and doesn't show the drips of fluids as much.
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1987 2 ton 1982 250/TH350 beater in progress Dad's 1981 3/4 L6 3 on tree posi and no options, awaiting restoration or scrapping Plus a mess o' tractors |
07-18-2013, 11:25 AM | #16 |
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Re: Frame condition
I used Rust Bullet on a replica Lotus 7 frame I built. It sticks like a mofo to rusty metal.
I scaled the rust (louder than hell) and painted the frame on my '77 Silverado with Zero Rust. The Zero Rust isn't as durable a paint as I'd hoped, and scrapes off pretty easily when working around the chassis. It might be that it just hasn't cured yet. Or I'm just clumsy. POR15 is also popular, but I have never used it.
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1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, turbo, LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate |
07-18-2013, 11:47 AM | #17 |
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Location: New Lowell, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Frame condition
My next frame I will be using Rust Bullet. POR15 is good but the prep is a killer of time and money, but it is good in the end.
For the amount of hard work it takes to do the frame, I would stay away from Rustoleum/tremclad. I used it on several very clean-sandblasted pieces and the rust starts coming through in less than a year. Maybe it depends on where you live? Not sure.
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BRIAN 1986 Chevrolet K20 Silverado 12 Valve CUMMINS P Pumped Intercooled/Getrag360/Divorced NP205/10B/14BFF Detroit Locker - DD Canadian Winter Beater. My Chevrolet CUMMINS Build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=585509 |
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