Would this help with weight transfer?

[68Stepbed]

OK, until I can come up with enough money to really build a chassis and put stuff on it to really make my truck handle, I'm trying what I can afford for right now.

My truck is lowered 4.5/5.75 with 2.5" drop spindles and 2" front drop springs and 5" rear drop springs and 3/4" blocks. The truck has good stance, but with a rake so the rear sits higher. As of now, I have very little traction. I really can't give it the beans without the rear tires just giving up.

So my question is this: Is the rake hurting weight transfer? If so, would swapping to a 6" rear spring help any? Also, do I need to look at spring rates? The only company that advertises(or even knows) spring rates is Hotchkis. Theirs are rated at 380 lbs/in. ECE just says their springs are rated at factory specs to keep ride quality the same. What are factory spec rates for rear coil springs?

Also, what else can I do to improve traction without compromising cornering ability?

[CC69Rat]

Stock trailing arms? Have you moved the front mounting point of your trailing arms at all? Do you have a rear swaybar?

Hotchkis springs are expensive but there is a reason for it. My black truck was on rails Matt, it was ridiculous. I cant even imagine their TVS kit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hgef-d3MA2o

[68Stepbed]

Yes, I'm still on stock trailing arms and no rear sway bar. To be completely honest, the rear doesn't rock and sway that much, so a sway bar would definitely help handling a little but may not help as much with actual traction and weight distribution. Of course someone more knowledgable could answer that question better. Also, the trailing arm mounting points are still stock as well. I've been searching a little bit on making my own brackets to make adjustable mounting locations, but haven't come up with anything yet.

As stated before, when I come up with funds, I plan to go whole hog with it at that point.
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[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

Yes, I'm still on stock trailing arms and no rear sway bar. To be completely honest, the rear doesn't rock and sway that much, so a sway bar would definitely help handling a little but may not help as much with actual traction and weight distribution. Of course someone more knowledgable could answer that question better. Also, the trailing arm mounting points are still stock as well. I've been searching a little bit on making my own brackets to make adjustable mounting locations, but haven't come up with anything yet.

As stated before, when I come up with funds, I plan to go whole hog with it at that point.
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My truck had no rear sway bar and a front rake. I dropped the rear an inch on my shackle and it helped noticeably. Then later added a rear swaybar thinking it would only make a little difference. Man that sure changed the truck feels really planted now
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[wraprail]

The OP is on truck arms and coil springs. Nothing about a 73-87 would apply here INSIDIOUS. Leaf springs are a totally different animal.
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[68Stepbed]

Anyone else have any suggestions?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by wraprail

The OP is on truck arms and coil springs. Nothing about a 73-87 would apply here INSIDIOUS. Leaf springs are a totally different animal.
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While the suspensions are different, changing the rear height means changing IC which does apply.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Roll center and instant center along with center if gravity all change when you move the rear up and down. Leaf spring or truck arm makes no difference flipping your front truck arm mounts will increase IC the same way lifting the front spring eye on a leaf spring vehicle.

Lowering will help weight bias front to rear enough to feel a difference in traction around a corner.
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