NEED help stranded! Going to internally regulated alternator.

[lha1992]

Hi all! So just tonight i was at work (work at Oreillys here) and i was checking something on my '72 that i had done because i was helping a customer with some suggestions as to what to do for there vehicle. And as i was looking i saw the wire that bolts to the back of my brand new alternator that i had installed a few weeks back was badly burned and a total fire hazard.

I had just put in a new voltage regulator and alternator and had buzzing coming from the regulator already and this was the last stand i wanted with this so i took off my alternator and voltage regulator and returned it all under warranty and got my money back and used that to buy a internally regulated alternator.

I got a Ultima 00-0043 for a 454 or 6.2 liter diesel engine from around the late 70s just cause the hookup connections were better in my view. The one that did come up for a 350 was a 00-0039 Ultima also.

Anyways i have the full gauge package with the volt meter (or ammeter idk if thats what its called) and i keep reading that i need to wire everything different from how it would be on a idiot light instrument cluster.

So could anyone point me in the right direction as to what i have to do??? I had to leave my truck at freaking Oreilly's tonight in an area i'm not to fond of at all and i need to get it running.

Thanks

[chiefcfd]

I think you need this. It should help you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379

[VetteVet]

This is how the factory wired the truck.






This is the stock regulator wiring.





This is what you need to do to wire the internal alternator in the system.

Jump the brown wire to the white wire and jump the red wire to the blue wire at the regulator plug.
Then connect the white wire to the no.1 terminal on the alternator and connect the blue wire to the no. 2 terminal on the alternator.



If the red wire on the back of the alternator is burnt up too bad you should replace it in the harness with a no.10 gauge wire. If you run it any way except like the first and second diagrams diagram then the battery gauge (ammeter) won't work. The two fuses in the diagram are for the battery gauge. They are 4 amp fuses and if either one is blown the battery gauge won't work. they are circled in the first diagram. A lot of guys just run the output wire straight to the battery and then their battery gauge won't work.

Here is the way I wire mine. I found the brown wire on the firewall plug and ran it all the way to the alternator no.1 terminal then I ran the red wire from the alternator Battery junction to the no.2 terminal. Then I ran the alternator output terminal wire to the battery alternator junction.

[Scott>72-GMC]

I know they actually make an adapter for this also. From external regulator to internal
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[LONGHAIR]

Just so you know, an ammeter and volt meter are very different.
Voltage is the amount of power available, amperage is the actual flow of that power.

Think of it like the plumbing to your kitchen sink. If you connected a pressure gauge before the faucet, that is the voltage. Then a paddle-wheel style flow meter after the faucet would measure the amperage.

Now this is not a perfect example because it does not account for the charging system. The water out of the faucet never goes back in, but with a DC electrical system it does. So essentially the ammeter is showing whether the power is going into the battery faster than you are using it. The battery is a buffer while you are using power, still supplying power if you draw more than the alternator can supply. The ammeter would show this as a (-negative), meaning the power is going out of the battery. After you turn off some of the things that are using power, the alternator "catches up" and begins to put the power back into the battery. This would be a (+ positive) on the ammeter.