'72 C10 LB to SB and more...

[Peepaw]

I used both a Sawzall and cutoff wheel on my grinder to cut it off. I used some 2x3" rect tubing across top of bedside as support system, and a way to measure perfectly down side of bed side for a straight cut. I used painters tape to help guide my cuts.

[Peepaw]

[Peepaw]

I'm assuming most of you guys have either read about the conversion, or done it yourself, is why I skipped over all the details such as where I cut, and what I measured from.
Best I can tell, most measure from rear stake, and move forward @ 8-9" (seems 8 3/4" is pretty popular measurement. Then measure 8" from that spot forward, accounting for cutoff wheel thickness.

My next step is cutting out the 12" in front of the rear wheels, BUT I do have a small dilemma.
Im thinking of doing a backhalf on the truck, but not sure just yet. Obviously just whacking 12" out of the frame (under the cab), is the easy way to go about it, but I have never been accused of doing things the easy way, or logical way.
So, it's POSSIBLE I just whack the 12" out of the stock frame, and then build a backhalf for it at a later date.

Either way, the 12" part will come up in the next couple/few weeks, as the truck unexpectedly became my daily driver.

I've got a '03 Dodge Cummins 1 ton dually, that I have converted from 2WD to 4WD, and from stick to auto, so my daily driver became my '01 Suburban. Well, my wife's 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee dropped a valve few days ago, so she is driving the Suburban, and Im driving the '72.
Once I get my wife in another vehicle (or I finish the conversion on my '03 Cummins), then I can finish the 12" portion of this modification.

[Peepaw]

Question for you guys:

Once I'm completed with the conversion, I'll obviously need a driveshaft. I want to go one piece (I'm not even sure the SB came with a one piece...did they?)
Either way, I am sure someone out there has done this conversion, and used a 1 piece....anyone have a measurement for a driveshaft?

I would like to be able to have the driveshaft ready to go once I get the frame hacked and back together.

Thanks

[Peepaw]

No one with info on the driveshaft?

[Peepaw]

Still nothing on driveshaft huh? I know SOMEONE out there has info on it


I got lowering springs ordered from No Limit, waiting for those to show up, as well as some new 3" Flowmasters.
The 402 needs to breathe. Right now exhaust is 2 1/2", with a set of 1 7/8" Hooker headers.
402 has been punched .030", TRW forged pistons, flat tops. Compression comes in @ 9.5:1 with a set of ported and milled closed chamber 802's, stuffed with 2.19 and 1.88's tickled by a Comp Cams "too small of a cam for me" 218/224 @ .050, .500/.500 112LSA
ARP main studs, ARP head bolts, ARP rod bolts, internally balanced, Weiand aluminum water pump, Tilton starter.
Has an Edelbrock Performer intake, along with a vac. secondary Holley 750 (needs a mechanical sec 850), and all MSD ignition: Billet Distributor, coil, 6A Box, and wires.

Built Turbo 400 with a Hughes converter, sending it all back to the 12 bolt with 3.73's and a limited slip.


Im in the midst of lowering it some because of the stink bug stance. Before I started the LB to SB conversion, it already had a pretty noticeable bed high stance. Once I started taking some weight off the back end (was a dealer installed, solid steel, bumper...@ 60-70LBS), section out that 8" of bed and floor, as well as the 8" of rear frame that was shortened, the rear of the truck just keeps getting higher and higher (have 6" clearance from top of rear tire to fender lip).
Oh, I also put a slightly shorter front tire on it (has 30" tall rear tire, and now has a 28" tall tire up front).
So, the rear end is WAY high, and that needs to come down.


So, we'll lower it, finish up the bed shortening, and GET THE RIGHT LENGTH DRIVESHAFT, right guys?
Get the exhaust done, and take care of some more of the "little stuff":
Drivers side rocker panel needs replacing
Need to figure out if gonna do a roll pan, or put stock rear bumper back on, or another style rear bumper???

Still thinking of doing the LSx swap...I've got a built 414" I have thought about dropping in, that's just sitting in the corner of my shop looking for a home.
BUT, the 402" (minus the heads and top end) is original to the Truck, and that DOES mean something to me.


So, guys....whats the length driveshaft I need again?

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by Peepaw

No one with info on the driveshaft?

I have swapped 700r4's into two swb trucks and used the stock ds out of late 80's swb chevy trucks both times.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Peepaw]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

I have swapped 700r4's into two swb trucks and used the stock ds out of late 80's swb chevy trucks both times.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks for info!