A arms, Can’t make up my mind.

[Formanbob]

So I can’t decide how I should rebuild the front suspension on my 1964 c10.

I bought a Porterbuilt stage 2 deluxe kit for the rear and the stage 1 kit for the front. When I tore the front apart I found that most if all the joints and or bussing were needing replaced.

I could just buy one of the eBay rebuild kits for around $250 or I could order a set up tubular a arms from Porterbuilt.

The only problem with the Porterbuilt option is just that so many options.
I can get them moved forward
I can get them shortened
I can get the moved forward and shortened.

I would love to lay frame don’t get me wrong but I don’t want to lose and bed space so I am happy with what I will get out of my stage 2 deluxe rear kit. But after talking with Porterbuilt is sound like I will not be able to use the moved forward and shortened arms if I ever swap the front k-member out for a drop member.
But I don’t know if I would ever need a drop member.
I feel like I should just put the time into sand blasting the OE front a arms and rebuild them but I want the front stance to match the rear stance as well. Not to mention I don’t have the $$$ to buy the Porterbuilt A arms anyway.


Sorry for the rant.

[lolife99]

Save up the money and buy the PB standard a-arms,...

[BR3W CITY]

I've been thinking about doing this. Mine are alright, but its time for an alignment and I have a feeling the hard miles on a variety of tire combos and no real alignment has probably shortened their lives. I've considering rebuilding or doing some fab work to mine, but its really really hard to argue with the quality and r+d that PB has done,.

[davidfre21]

Ill probably get Michigan metal arms. I think they look slicker than PB arms.
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[Formanbob]

Originally Posted by davidfre21

Ill probably get Michigan metal arms. I think they look slicker than PB arms.
Posted via Mobile Device

I did not see anything for a 64, plus I'm not to sure that flat plate is going to be as strong as the pb tubular arms
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[Formanbob]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Save up the money and buy the PB standard a-arms,...

That's what I feel I should do, now you said standard arms, do you say that for a reason, like not getting them narrowed, or moved forward?
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Posted via Mobile Device

[Formanbob]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I've been thinking about doing this. Mine are alright, but its time for an alignment and I have a feeling the hard miles on a variety of tire combos and no real alignment has probably shortened their lives. I've considering rebuilding or doing some fab work to mine, but its really really hard to argue with the quality and r+d that PB has done,.

Do you plan on getting them moved forward or shortened, and do plan on getting a drop member?
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[andrewmp6]

Shorten is good if your gonna like a 22 or bigger and need room.Moving them forward is good for any lowered truck really.Forward centers the wheel in the wheel opening giving you more room by the firewall.As far as Michigan metal works his stuff is strong and built to take a beating.Hes like the Porterbuilt of the mini truck world.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Formanbob

That's what I feel I should do, now you said standard arms, do you say that for a reason, like not getting them narrowed, or moved forward?
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

IF you ever plan on getting a DROPMEMBER,... you can't use the Forward Series arms.
Narrowed is up to you and your wheel choice.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Shorten is good if your gonna like a 22 or bigger and need room.Moving them forward is good for any lowered truck really.Forward centers the wheel in the wheel opening giving you more room by the firewall.As far as Michigan metal works his stuff is strong and built to take a beating.
Hes like the Porterbuilt of the mini truck world.

I think he is alot bigger than the mini truck world.

Michigan Metal Works makes more a-arms for more vehicles than ANY other company I know.
Not limited to any certain make.
From 1/2-ton to 1-ton trucks.

More specialized than any other company, when it comes to building bagged truck a-arms, 4-links, watts links and custum fabricated spindles, for many differnt model trucks.
His company is huge!

Several years ago I remember him saying he went though $40,000 worth of plate steel that year.
He is much BIGGER than that now.

I would never doubt any product that comes out of his shop.

[andrewmp6]

Yeah he started out in the mini truck world but branched out to pretty much any truck made almost now.

[Formanbob]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Shorten is good if your gonna like a 22 or bigger and need room.Moving them forward is good for any lowered truck really.Forward centers the wheel in the wheel opening giving you more room by the firewall.As far as Michigan metal works his stuff is strong and built to take a beating.Hes like the Porterbuilt of the mini truck world.

So I plan on staying with stock rims or maybe some Nissan 18-20" so could I stick with stock length?

[Formanbob]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I think he is alot bigger than the mini truck world.

Michigan Metal Works makes more a-arms for more vehicles than ANY other company I know.
Not limited to any certain make.
From 1/2-ton to 1-ton trucks.

More specialized than any other company, when it comes to building bagged truck a-arms, 4-links, watts links and custum fabricated spindles, for many differnt model trucks.
His company is huge!

Several years ago I remember him saying he went though $40,000 worth of plate steel that year.
He is much BIGGER than that now.

I would never doubt any product that comes out of his shop.

So do MM make arms for the 64?

[andrewmp6]

His site just shows 73-87 but since the 60-72 truck is close talk to him and see what he can do.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Formanbob

So I plan on staying with stock rims or maybe some Nissan 18-20" so could I stick with stock length?

Yes.
Because you will probably need spacers also.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Formanbob

So do MM make arms for the 64?

Sure.
The balljoints would be the only difference.
I'm sure you could order them with or without the 63-70 ball joints.
(or whatever year spindle you are using)

Same for the Porterbuilt arms.

[Formanbob]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Yes.
Because you will probably need spacers also.

Thanks

[Formanbob]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Sure.
The balljoints would be the only difference.
I'm sure you could order them with or without the 63-70 ball joints.
(or whatever year spindle you are using)

Same for the Porterbuilt arms.

Thanks

[king-918]

My advise is buy what you want and if you cannot afford it save because you will regret it later
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Sure.
The balljoints would be the only difference.
I'm sure you could order them with or without the 63-70 ball joints.(or whatever year spindle you are using)

Same for the Porterbuilt arms.

MMW comes w/o BJ's (you install your own so you could do whichever year needed 63-70/71-87). The alternative he offers are the joints that offer more range when laying out on big diameter wheels w/o binding (can't remember what they're called).

[fishingjred73]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

MMW comes w/o BJ's (you install your own so you could do whichever year needed 63-70/71-87). The alternative he offers are the joints that offer more range when laying out on big diameter wheels w/o binding (can't remember what they're called).

Jeebus Joint

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by fishingjred73

Jeebus Joint

Yep... That's them. Now I don't have to look it up (would have festered tonight ). Thanks.