Brake drum puller and jack stands?

[In The Ten Ring]

I have a strong feeling I'm going to need one of these.....does anyone know if Advance Auto loans brake drum pullers out?

What is a good brake drum puller to buy for this sort of job?

Where do I put the jack stands to remove the rear drums on a 1972 Chevy swb 2-wheel drive?

Thanks!

[Daddy Brim]

No puller needed, use the adjusting wheel to back off brake shoes. You can get to it from the bottom back side of the drum. Some times a BFH helps. I put my jack stands under the axle housing, be sure to block both sides of front wheels.

[volksworld]

shoot the area where the axle sticks thru the drum with penetrant a couple days in advance...that's where they rust on

[truckdude239]

Ive never seen a drum brake pulleri normally just beat them off since i replace the drums when they are stuck on
Posted via Mobile Device

[PanelDeland]

^What they said^.Also be aware that if you use drum puller,you will probably have to replace all the brake hardware,At 40+ years old,it might not be a bad idea anyway.

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks guys but...

What's "BFH?"

What's an "axle housing?" Where is it? I'm serious.....I am VERY new to all of this! If it isn't putting in gas, changing oil, or changing a tire, I am a novice.

Will go put penetrating oil onto the brake drum right now though....it'll be next week before I can start on those anyway.

[71meangreenc10]

Big F------ Hammer. 3 to 5 lbs short sledge hammers work best....

The axle assembly is what the rear tires bolt to.


Smitty

[71meangreenc10]

You have to be careful not to smack the studs unless you want to replace them. My advice is to get a good repair manual to help you out. Everyone has to start out from somewhere, they are great referrence materials.

Smitty
Born and raised in Charleston West By God Virginia.....

[Daddy Brim]

You might find this helpful http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake

[In The Ten Ring]

Big Freaking Hammer! That's funny. Thanks.

Ah ha....so just put the jack stands under the shaft that goes into the wheels...got ya.

I ordered the copy of the original chassic manual but the pics are hard to see. I have a Haynes manual for those model years.

I've been watching youtube vids and I am getting a better idea. I talked to a friend who used to work in a garage....he warned me about not taking the parking brake off. LOL

[SS Tim]

Here is a link to download the factory service and overhaul manuals.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016


If you are new to this to the point of wanting advice for jackstand placement it would be a really good idea to find a buddy to walk you through the project. I've had good luck teaching people on one side and watching/helping them do the opposite side on both axles. It makes for a good, safe learning experience. Taking pictures before you disassemble after a good shot of brake clean is very helpful in any case.

[JointTech]

yea drum brakes are a real PITA. Even when I had the old stuff and new stuff in front of me it takes a lot of figuring to put it back together.
mine only took a whack or two to break it free but I didnt have a big lip for the shoes to get stuck in.
also I dont have one of those holes in the drum to loosen the parking brake. I heard theres a knockout to get to it but fortuneatly I didnt have to use it.

fyi I got one side of my cab mounts done today. It wasnt nearly as bad as people make out. Just hard enough to make you feel like you did something. Unlike for example upper balljoints which make you want to sell the whole thing.

[Rufton]

I bought the 12 ton jack stands from Northern Tool; very nice, tall and safe.

I don't recall them being that expensive.

If buy smaller stands make sure sufficient height for your truck.

[GRX]

Originally Posted by volksworld

shoot the area where the axle sticks thru the drum with penetrant a couple days in advance...that's where they rust on

^^ this!
I grew up in the era of drum brakes and have done far more than my share. The slide on drums most always rust around where it fits over the axle. Soak with penetrating oil for a while, hit the drum with a brass punch and BFH to break it loose. If that doesn't work apply some heat to the drum (not the center hub) with a torch. I have had them literally pop right off that way. Nothing like a HOT drum in your lap

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks guys. I bought some basic drum tools today at Advance Auto. I'll give them a good look beginning next week. I still need to get a propane torch....thanks for the advice on how to use it!

I checked with a shop I like and worst case scenario (whole replacement) I'm looking at about $90.00 in labor. I can replace everything fairly cheaply from Advance Auto.

[Rufton]

Maybe you can borrow some jack stands or buy used if you wan't to save a buck.

[Mike C]

Everybody should own jackstands. Go to grocery store and look at car mags that have harbor freight coupons. Find one that has 6 ton stands for $25. Take picture of coupon or buy magazine. Order. Work on truck.

[Rufton]

I frequent HF and their stands are probably fine, but an inside voice told me to not to buy the cheapest stands.

[PanelDeland]

HF and NT both have decent jackstands.Look for real steel.If parts of them are stamped of light guage,make sure your insurance premiums are paid.Preferably,get good ones so we can have you around for a good while longer.

[swamp rat]

I got to agree with the post above on using a brass drift with the BFH, if nothing else i't even try an aluminum block or something, better to dent up a drift than the drum, a couple good hits, rotate 180, couple more hits ect.

[In The Ten Ring]

I was right over at Advance Auto TWICE today and I forgot to look at jack stands! My dad has some HEAVY steel ones he made in the coal mines (he was a welder back when 1/2 inch steel was just given away) but he'd never find them in all his junk and then he'd be upset I was actually working this intensely on the truck. He doesn't approve of my cleaning out the old gasoline or fuel system.....I just don't tell him anymore what I do.