'65 C-10 single-to-dual res. m/cylinder swap(part #s included)

[nxtruck]

I just finished swapping m/cylinders on my '65 this afternoon and I thought I'd give a little insight on this, along with the part #s I used, with the hopes of making this a little easier for anyone else wanting to do this.
For starters, I read a thread in the FAQ section started by ChiefRocka called " HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)". This thread gives all of the info and pics needed to know how and where to tie into the factory brake piping in order to split between the front and the rear brakes. Big props to ChiefRocka for that thread, BTW!! I followed the instructions in that thread to a T, with the exception of not replacing the original line coming off of the factory m/cylinder. I used the original line that came off of the factory cylinder as the line that tied into the rear-most port ( closest to the firewall ) on the new dual reservoir m/cylinder. This line is the line that feeds the front brakes and needs to be connected to the port closest to the firewall. I bought a 60" long stick of 1/4" brake tubing to make the line that goes from the front port on the m/cylinder to the connector that has to be added to the line on the passenger side rear of the k-member that runs along the inside of the passenger side framerail to the rear brakes. One thing that the thread above didn't mention is that the line going to the rear brakes is 3/16", rather than 1/4" like the rest of the factory brake lines. No big deal, but you need to know this when picking up the necessary fittings to do this swap. OK, as long as you read ChiefRocka's thread, this will all make sense to you.
Now, for the part #s that I used. First of all, I used an A-1 Cardone # 10-1329 master cylinder, which fits a '67 Chevy C-10 (drum/drum setup, which is all that was available until '71). This m/cylinder bolted right up to the factory holes with no mods whatsoever. I did have to lengthen my pushrod by about 1/4", but since it's adjustable, that was not a problem. The m/cylinder-to-brake line adapters needed are Edelmann #s 258403 and 258450. Finally, the plug needed to plug the top of the brake tee on the pass. side is an Edelmann # 120300 and the two connectors needed to union the new 1/4" line to the existing 3/16" line are Edelmann #s 124320 (male connector) and 126420 (female connector). These last two connectors are NPT thread on one end and inverted flare for the brake lines on the other. Since I couldn't find an actual union with two different sizes, I made my own with these two fittings. All of these parts were purchased at my local O'Reillys for a total of $39.04. This is an easy and worthwhile upgrade to these trucks and I hope that this parts list will make this job a little easier for anyone wanting to do this.
P.S. ... sorry for not posting any pics of this. I'm lousy with trying to post pics on the computer.

[Lugnutz65]

Thanks! Those parts numbers will be a big help when I get ready to do mine.
Jay

[nxtruck]

You're welcome! As many times as I have asked for and received help on this forum, I figured I'd try to return the favor if I could, and I know these part #s will come in handy to someone trying to do this.