1969 c20 Camper Custom Rear Brakes

[Crash079]

Hello all,
I am brand new to this site and I joined to find some help with an issue I'm having with my rear brakes. I have a '69 Camper Custom that was converted to have a pick up back end and coil springs. So, here it goes:
I have drum brakes with the connected hub that requires the removal of the split axle shafts to access the brakes. I purchased new drums through AutoZone and received the wrong ones twice before finally getting something that appears to be an exact match to the originals. I have attached the hub to the the drum and everything appears to be correct and fits well except that when I go to replace the center lock nuts, there is now only enough available thread to replace the first lock nut. Has anyone had a similar problem or does anyone have any advice on what to do?
The attached photo shows the first lock nut in place and the remaining lack of thread space. As you can see in the photo, the axle shaft is held in by 8 bolts and goes in after these two lock nuts are in place, holding the drum and hub in position. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[JointTech]

is the drum flush against the backing plate?
2x4 + BFH = more threads lol

[TBONE1964]

If you need to find a thread by SS Tim and down load a service manual and follow the procedure for adjusting these types of bearing set ups.

My guess is that the outer bearing is cocked sideways and is not pushed into the bearing cup all the way. These bearings are a slip fit but have very minimum clearance and can cock sideways and jam on the spindle very easy.

I am not sure if the service manual will describe the installation with end play instructions or if there is actually preload on the bearing sets. If it has preload, follow the torque procedures correctly. if it shows end play specs, you will need a dial indicator to do it correctly.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by Crash079

Hello all,
I am brand new to this site and I joined to find some help with an issue I'm having with my rear brakes. I have a '69 Camper Custom that was converted to have a pick up back end and coil springs. So, here it goes:
I have drum brakes with the connected hub that requires the removal of the split axle shafts to access the brakes. I purchased new drums through AutoZone and received the wrong ones twice before finally getting something that appears to be an exact match to the originals. I have attached the hub to the the drum and everything appears to be correct and fits well except that when I go to replace the center lock nuts, there is now only enough available thread to replace the first lock nut. Has anyone had a similar problem or does anyone have any advice on what to do?
The attached photo shows the first lock nut in place and the remaining lack of thread space. As you can see in the photo, the axle shaft is held in by 8 bolts and goes in after these two lock nuts are in place, holding the drum and hub in position. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Your question and truck's background invite a lot of questions. I'd be interested to hear about what was swapped on the rear and why. Most Custom Campers could be had as coil or leaf spring trucks. The rear ends were GM/Eaton HO52 with the captive inboard drums or the Dana 60 with the slip on drums.

Either way a factory service manual and overhaul manuals are a good start but only if you know what you are working on.

They can be downloaded here as workable copies.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016

The fact you are coming up short can be the result of several things. My first question is if you are sure its assembled right? Then is the drum an exact replacement or is it actually too deep somehow? Some more pictures might help.

[bollybib]

When I was looking for new rear drums for my 69 C20 coil HO52, the only ones I found available were made by Centric part number 122.66024. Surprisingly, my local auto parts stores were of little use finding the correct drums. I made a thread way back when that you may find useful.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=443837

And these:

http://centriccatalog.com/Inquiry/Ap...9&m=47&mm=1999

[Longhorn 70]

watching for referrence

[Crash079]

Thanks to everyone for replying so quickly!
JointTech: Yes, the drum is flush against the backing plate.
TBONE1964: From a quick glance, the bearings look in place, but with all of the pounding I had to do to separate the hub from the drum, you have definitely given me a place to start looking.
SS Tim: I bought the truck almost two years ago and have been finding out about swaps along the way. There is a new heavy duty bumper that was put on, probably when the camper was removed and the original leaf springs were replaced with coils. I bought the truck from someone who inherited it and unfortunately didn't have much information to give me about the work that was done to it. I will try to get more pictures up tonight if possible.
Bollybib: Thanks for the reference. They look like what I have, but I am going to do some measuring tonight to be sure.

Thanks to everyone, I'll let you know what I find!

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by Crash079

Thanks to everyone for replying so quickly!
JointTech: Yes, the drum is flush against the backing plate.
TBONE1964: From a quick glance, the bearings look in place, but with all of the pounding I had to do to separate the hub from the drum, you have definitely given me a place to start looking.
SS Tim: I bought the truck almost two years ago and have been finding out about swaps along the way. There is a new heavy duty bumper that was put on, probably when the camper was removed and the original leaf springs were replaced with coils. I bought the truck from someone who inherited it and unfortunately didn't have much information to give me about the work that was done to it. I will try to get more pictures up tonight if possible.
Bollybib: Thanks for the reference. They look like what I have, but I am going to do some measuring tonight to be sure.

Thanks to everyone, I'll let you know what I find!

For a quick reference, check out Bollybib post link #17. It explains the proper way to adjust the bearings and the torque values.

[Crash079]

Well, BollyBib, I did some measuring and found that I must have the wrong drums! The height of mine are measuring a little more than a quarter inch more than the 5.02" on your Centric drums, just about the exact distance that I was missing on the threads for the lock nuts. So, it looks like that answers my question. My plan now is to order the ones you referenced from Centric and try to return the others to Autozone.

Thanks to everyone for your help and I'll be sure to post up when I get her back on the road. There's plenty of projects yet to come as well, so I'll be seeing you all! Thanks!

[SS Tim]

Good, now at least there is a clear direction to fixing your problem.

Remember the studs need to be pressed, not hammered out and in.
One other thing to consider is if you are planning a disc brake conversion on the front. If so they use the larger studs. To keep things matching the rear studs would need to be replaced with a larger size and the hub/drum drilled out. Better to do things once.

Here is a link on factory parts backfitting to give you front disc brakes.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...68&postcount=4

Plus if you missed it we like pictures here!