11-25-2003, 12:05 PM | #1 |
Red
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Llano... Texas Hill Country
Posts: 448
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elec. choke Q's
The elec. choke on my '72 isn't working and I was hopefully going to get a chance to look at it in the next few days. I have a quadrajet, and there is one red wire going to a spade connector on the choke body. If I hook up a volt meter, I assume I should be getting power to this red wire in any "key on" position, or is it only when starting? Assuming there is power, to the wire, what would be the next thing to check? ANyone know of any links to sites for troubleshooting electrical chokes?
Mike
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'72 Cheyenne LWB 350/350 "The sun don't shine on the same dog's ass all the time." - Catfish Hunter (commenting on why he was not able to pitch another perfect game). |
11-25-2003, 12:35 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Muskegon,MI,USA
Posts: 6,026
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Does the choke close or does it not open?
With power to the choke and it still will not open then the choke is bad and will need to be replaced. The electric part of the choke warms up the bi-metallic spring and causes the choke to open. The spring closes the choke when it is cold. Jim |
11-25-2003, 12:47 PM | #3 |
CCRider
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA
Posts: 2,232
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You should have power when the key is in the run position...I wouldn't want to have power to it in the acc position. Check it in the morning when it is cold...the choke should be completely closed...this adjusted by the black houseing where the wire plugs in...loosen the screws and turn the houseing till it is completely closed. Now crank the engine...within a few seconds the choke pulloff should open th choke till you have a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap....depending on what runs best...this is adjusted on the pull-off. And when the motor is warm it should be fully open. The electric part turns the choke off...it should have no effect on it setting....The choke on those ussally works best if you press the pettle one time fully to the floor to set it and then crank....sometimes if you push the gas pettle too much it will kick the choke off...Good Luck
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11-25-2003, 01:24 PM | #4 |
Red
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Llano... Texas Hill Country
Posts: 448
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Today is the first real ccol day we've had in Houston, so I haven't even looked at it yet. I will and will get back to ya'll. BTW I typically, put the pedal all the way to the floor, then back off 1/2 way then crank.
Thanks for the info. Mike
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'72 Cheyenne LWB 350/350 "The sun don't shine on the same dog's ass all the time." - Catfish Hunter (commenting on why he was not able to pitch another perfect game). |
11-25-2003, 08:55 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hills of Western Mass
Posts: 626
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In the A.M when you check it make sure you blip the throttle first and then get out to look to see if it closed the choke. The choke is fully open when you get home after driving and stays that way until you blip the throttle in the morning to let it close.
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12-06-2003, 10:16 AM | #6 |
Red
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Llano... Texas Hill Country
Posts: 448
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Well I finally got a chance to look at the choke. The top "butterfly" closes to about 1/8-3/16 " after pushing the excellerator down. But the rpm's of the engine don't increase. There is 12 v to the wire. Ideas?
Mike
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'72 Cheyenne LWB 350/350 "The sun don't shine on the same dog's ass all the time." - Catfish Hunter (commenting on why he was not able to pitch another perfect game). |
12-06-2003, 01:25 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: central pa
Posts: 1,525
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check the black ground wire make sure it is to a good ground. Then when it is cold and the choke is closed look at the drivers side of the carb and make sure the idle screw is on one of the steps of the choke positioner. If it is real cold out it should be on the highest step. If the engine warms up the choke should move the positioner down the steps as it warms up.
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