Spindles too big?

[swamp rat]

I'll cut and paste from my build thread:

Moving right along, grabbed the front hub and tried to install onto my new spindles, the inner bearing won't slide over the spindle on ether spindle, i test fit all the bearings and seals on the old spindle so didn't even give it a second thought.... Put the rotor/hub back on my work bench, grabbed one of my old spindles and she popped right into place, sigh. I grabbed my calipers and measured about .001 difference, the newer spindle was of course bigger.

So 2 steps forward and 4 steps back again..

I'll have to inspect the new spindles a bit closer, but curious what your thoughts would be to using a strip of emery cloth and trying to polish it down a little?


I'll check into this a little closer later, i really hate the thought of having to pull an inner bearing to remeasure it as i'll waste a seal in the process..

I might pull a spindle tomorrow and try and install it on the bench like i did with the old one today.


While i'm on this subject, the Prevailing Loc Nuts are suppose to be replaced each time, has anyone here reused them?

[JPBrecheisen]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I'll cut and paste from my build thread:

Moving right along, grabbed the front hub and tried to install onto my new spindles, the inner bearing won't slide over the spindle on ether spindle, i test fit all the bearings and seals on the old spindle so didn't even give it a second thought.... Put the rotor/hub back on my work bench, grabbed one of my old spindles and she popped right into place, sigh. I grabbed my calipers and measured about .001 difference, the newer spindle was of course bigger.

So 2 steps forward and 4 steps back again..

I'll have to inspect the new spindles a bit closer, but curious what your thoughts would be to using a strip of emery cloth and trying to polish it down a little?


I'll check into this a little closer later, i really hate the thought of having to pull an inner bearing to remeasure it as i'll waste a seal in the process..

I might pull a spindle tomorrow and try and install it on the bench like i did with the old one today.


While i'm on this subject, the Prevailing Loc Nuts are suppose to be replaced each time, has anyone here reused them?

I had this problem once when I replaced a spindle on my Willys. I couldn't get the inner bearing on all the way. It would hang up about half way before it seated all the way in board. I used a light file and some emery cloth to take down the high spots so the bearing would fit. Just go slow and don't take any more off than you have to. It didn't take but about 10 minutes of work when I did it. The new parts are fresh, so the issue your having isn't abnormal. At least from my experience, but I'm not an expert. Chances are, when your truck was first assembled in the factory, there was somebody doing the very same thing to make sure everything fit as it should. I would give the emery cloth a try, as I've done it before having the same issue, and have had no trouble with any of the pieces since. Just take your time. Its a tad tedious, but just run the cloth a bit, then check the fit of things. I would look for the "high spots" and focus on those areas. That way you're not taking material off that isn't causing your issue. The bearing will sort of make a mark on the spindle where it is binding when you try to slide it on. That's how it worked for me anyway.

As far as the locknuts go, I always replace locknuts and lock washers when they are on applications such as spindles, steering components, or rotating components subject to motion/vibrations, like drive shaft u-joint hardware etc. I know there are specs for lock nut hardware, but it will take some research. Generally if they still have a certain amount of "run-on" torque, they are still serviceable and can be used. Unless you want to check each one, and new ones don't cost to much, the most conservative answer would be to replaced them.

Hope this helps.

[swamp rat]

Thanks for the reply!

Yea, it looked like it was starting but only about 1/8" or so, then hard to get back off.

This is one time that i really wish a had a lath and some soft jaws, its a lot easier to spin it with the emery cloth in hand..

[JPBrecheisen]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Thanks for the reply!

Yea, it looked like it was starting but only about 1/8" or so, then hard to get back off.

This is one time that i really wish a had a lath and some soft jaws, its a lot easier to spin it with the emery cloth in hand..

Yeah, Thats the same thing that happened to me. It would start going on, but then would get hung up. In my case, I just had a small high spot or two. I used a flat machinist file to ease down the areas that were binding, then just did a couple of swipes with a length of emery. It worked out just fine. Like I said, just go easy and keep test fitting. This way you only take off what is necessary.

Just look for an impression mark where it is binding to help identifiy where the high spots are.

I think you'll be just fine once you do that.

Like I said, I'm not and expert, but that what I had to do, and it wasn't ever and issue.

If the nuts aren't too pricey or hard to get, I'd just put some new ones on and you won't ever have to worry about after you get it all together.

Jonathon

[swamp rat]

Thanks for the help, i hope to have then done and the hubs mounted by this weekend!

[swamp rat]

I took one of the hubs back off and remeasured it, its looking like about .0005 will do the trick on the first one. Was hoping to find some 1000 grit X 1" wide strips of emery cloth today but the finest i found was 320.. will try the local auto paint store tomorrow. I think tonight i may try a piece of scotch brite first and see if i can get it with that.