k10 to k20 conversion ?s

[1968k10blue]

I was just wondering, I have a k10 and wanted to know what all would be involved to convert it to a k20, I dont want to get new axles yet. I mostly just want to get the suspension upgraded since I already need new springs anyway any suggestions are greatly appreciated

[jrdv]

Unless you are into heavy rock crawling or doing some major overweight towing, I would stick with your stock axles. They will handle a 33 inch tire with no problem, expecially with a daily driver thats only driven on a paved road.

What are your plans with the truck?

A simple spring swap would be the way to go.

Do a search in the 4x4 forum and you will probably find what you want to know.

Most importantly......Have fun with the project.

John

[jrdv]

I just noticed you have a 68. I would do an axle swap on the front to a disc brake setup. That would be the best upgrade you can make.

John

[1968k10blue]

thanks, it is mostly so I can haul a little more weight if need be. I know it will make a rougher ride, but for the type of things I like to do it would be nice to have a little more beef to my suspension, on a side note, I dont mind the drums. sure it takes a little more to change the brakes, but i dont mind the extra effort if I have someone to give me a hand

[jrdv]

If you are going to be towing more than 5000 pounds, I would put in air bags. You can get a setup from Firestone that is good for 5000 pounds. They don't make one for our year trucks, but I use a setup for an 80's chevy and it works just fine.

With a compressor and gauge setup, they run about 500 bucks. Check out JC Whitney or Summit.

John

[1968k10blue]

alright sounds good, I also see you are fond of the 4x4's I bought mine for winter believe it or not, do you use yours as drivers?

[Bigdav160]

The rear axle is the biggest difference between K10 and K20. Plus the 8 lug wheels.

You do not want a period correct rear axle anyway.

The aftermarket lumps the springs together for these two models

[72supermike]

If your wanting to haul more weight from time to time, go with airbags. much more simple and will work just fine. It would probably be the direction i would go unless hauling was going to be a consistent thing. 3/4 axles have bigger bearings, shafts, and tubes. and 8 lug wheels are held on a bit better too. More weight to drive around but more stout.

[jrdv]

Originally Posted by 1968k10blue

alright sounds good, I also see you are fond of the 4x4's I bought mine for winter believe it or not, do you use yours as drivers?

I do use them as daily drivers. I just drove this one 350 miles to Texas and back.
Left yesterday morning and just got home.

[jrdv]

This is my daily driver in the winter for work. I feed cattle with it and it has firestone airebags in the back.

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by jrdv

If you are going to be towing more than 5000 pounds, I would put in air bags.

I've hauled over 5K on the bed, let alone a trailer. Just springs, no bags. It doesn't really squat either.


But if money allows, definitely go with air bags. Just leave the easy riding 1/2 ton stack in the rear and add air.

If the fronts are 2.5", I would just get an "add a leaf" kit, or find 2 springs at the junkyard that are similar length.

[gale]

Originally Posted by 1968k10blue

I was just wondering, I have a k10 and wanted to know what all would be involved to convert it to a k20, I dont want to get new axles yet. I mostly just want to get the suspension upgraded since I already need new springs anyway any suggestions are greatly appreciated

Much more to it than just springs and new badges for the fender. The FRAME is quite a bit thicker and heavier. If you have trailing arms and coils, the trailing arms have an extra channel riveted in the web. You don't just adapt to 8 lug wheels, you need new spindles and control arms up front and a complete new axle at the rear.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by gale

Much more to it than just springs and new badges for the fender. The FRAME is quite a bit thicker and heavier. If you have trailing arms and coils, the trailing arms have an extra channel riveted in the web. You don't just adapt to 8 lug wheels, you need new spindles and control arms up front and a complete new axle at the rear.

He has a 4x4 lwb, which has the same frame as a K20. THe difference is in the axles and springs. I believe the D44 front axle has thicker tubes on the
K20.

The 70+ axles are open knuckle, which would be an upgrade from your 68 model. The K20 rears are all good, the eaton can be a little tough to find brake parts for, but ~$350 or so and you can have an all new disc brake setup added.

I may have an extra set of axles here from a 71/72.

[fp1967]

Not trying to start an argument here, this is what I've seen. The K20's and the one K10 Suburban that I had (1969) had thicker frames that the K10's. The 73 and newer K10's and K20's had the thicker frames like the 67-72 K20's had.

[1972RedNeck]

We need SSTim

[1968k10blue]

thanks everyone for the responses, this isnt anything that I need done ASAP, but more or less I would just like either to have bags in the back so I can have a softer ride or hd springs. it wouldnt do much if I were to upgrade the axles or anything, but I guess time will tell