Question for all the engine guys!

[Steve Cole]

Ok, so I bought my truck as a uncompleted project from the PO. I am almost ready to start it up for the first time since I bought it but it has sat for almost two years without being started or motored. I bought a oil pump priming tool that goes in the distributor hole that i was going to use prior to starting the engine to get oil circulating but I am not sure if it will get oil to the most vital places or if it is even necessary. Also I'm scared that I will screw up the timing by removing the distributor and not installing it correctly.

I need your opinions: What should I do prior to starting the engine, if anything?

Thanks,

[cleszkie]

Priming the engine by removing the dizzy is a must in my book. Spinning the oil pump will get oil to all of the critical places if the engine is in good working order (no spun cam bearings, etc). If you are worrried about screwing up your timing, get a friend who has more experience with installing a dizzy to help out. Its not very hard to do. In the process, you will learn a very important skill in working on these trucks.

[Steve Cole]

Ok, thanks cleszkie. In your opinion, how long could an engine safely sit before it would need to be primed before starting?

[truckster]

Priming is a very good idea. However, priming it will not get oil to the piston rings, particularly the top ring. I would remove each spark plug and put just a little light oil in each cylinder before you turn it over.

[GuyO]

Truckster is right, squirt Marvel Mystery Oil or something in the plug holes. You do not need to remove the dizzy, just unplug the coil and turn over with the key switch, that will prime it and not upset any initial timing. Also, I add zinc additive to help an old engine break back in. With engines that have sat a long time, I remove the valve covers and squirt Marvel on all the rods and into the gallery. If you are really worried about wiping the cam you can loosen the rockers and pull the rods and dump a little oil into the guides, but I wouldn't.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Ok, so I bought my truck as a uncompleted project from the PO. I am almost ready to start it up for the first time since I bought it but it has sat for almost two years without being started or motored. I bought a oil pump priming tool that goes in the distributor hole that i was going to use prior to starting the engine to get oil circulating but I am not sure if it will get oil to the most vital places or if it is even necessary. Also I'm scared that I will screw up the timing by removing the distributor and not installing it correctly.

I need your opinions: What should I do prior to starting the engine, if anything?

Thanks,

you getting ready to fire it? If its already run (and you said it has), just pull the +12V to the distributor and give the engine a couple turns until you see oil pressure on the gauge. Is the engine brand new? Any time on it? The cam and rings are the most critical for break-in. The cam the first 20 mins and the rings the first few hundred miles.

[turp mcspray]

If it has never been fired, I would absolutely, pull the distributor out, and spin the oil pump untill ALL of the rockers have oil coming out of them. Retiming the dist. isn't anything to be afraid of. Firing a dry engine is!

[hugger6933]

go to search and look into static time and read some of the post, it is nothing to be afraid of and it is a good first timer project and a good learning tool and time. I did a post just a little bit ago so search my old post back in the last two weeks there was a guy who lost time and did not have a timing tab and I gave him some hint to help him through it. Jim

[oklalawnboy]

Before pulling the dist, pull the cap and point the rotor to a reference point you can mark easily.(like straight back to the firewall) Just make sure when you put it back in, the rotor points to that same spot. You may have to turn the oil pump slot to get it to line back up and drop in completely. Take your time and breathe deeply, it will be fine.

[Steve Cole]

Originally Posted by NC_John

you getting ready to fire it? If its already run (and you said it has), just pull the +12V to the distributor and give the engine a couple turns until you see oil pressure on the gauge. Is the engine brand new? Any time on it? The cam and rings are the most critical for break-in. The cam the first 20 mins and the rings the first few hundred miles.

Hi John,

The engine is not new by any means, it has about 25K on it since rebuild. I didn't want to crank the engine over because it has sat for so long. I thought about this and you would still have pistons moving up and down in unlubricated cylinders. This is why I bought the priming tool but that still won't put oil on the cylinder walls. I thought about getting oil on the top side of the pistons but squirting it in the spark plug hole didn't seem effective, (like only a small area would actually get oil on it). I think if I could atomize the oil using air pressure and squirt it through some type of diffusing nozzle that would evenly coat the walls with a light misting that would be ideal. Unfortunately I don't have anything like this so I came here for recommendations.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Hi John,

The engine is not new by any means, it has about 25K on it since rebuild. I didn't want to crank the engine over because it has sat for so long. I thought about this and you would still have pistons moving up and down in unlubricated cylinders. This is why I bought the priming tool but that still won't put oil on the cylinder walls. I thought about getting oil on the top side of the pistons but squirting it in the spark plug hole didn't seem effective, (like only a small area would actually get oil on it). I think if I could atomize the oil using air pressure and squirt it through some type of diffusing nozzle that would evenly coat the walls with a light misting that would be ideal. Unfortunately I don't have anything like this so I came here for recommendations.

you're over analyzing it.... put a drop of oil in the combustion chamber if you want prior to starting it and we'll crank it without fire to the plugs just to lube everything without load. it'll be fine. the oil trapped in the bearings didn't evaporate or dry up- everything should still be protected for startup.

its a chevy small block man- they are the briggs and straton of the automotive world!

[Steve Cole]

Originally Posted by NC_John

you're over analyzing it.... put a drop of oil in the combustion chamber if you want prior to starting it and we'll crank it without fire to the plugs just to lube everything without load. it'll be fine. the oil trapped in the bearings didn't evaporate or dry up- everything should still be protected for startup.

its a chevy small block man- they are the briggs and straton of the automotive world!

10-4. I over analyze everything.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

10-4. I over analyze everything.

I don't know about that. You don't seem too worried about left-over parts during maintenance/repairs at work.

[Steve Cole]

[QUOTE=NC_John;6309982]I don't know about that. You don't seem too worried about left-over parts during maintenance/repairs at work.[/QUOTE



Ha! Your funny.

[bbcmudtruck]

Pulling the distributor isn't nearly as hard as you would think. As mentioned above, pull the cap first and make sure you have the tab on the top pointed towards a spot you can remember. When you use your oil priming tool, take the valve covers off first and make sure all the push rods are getting oil out of the top. This is just to make sure none of the push rods are clogged or gummed up. Secondly, change the oil first and put a new filter on it. Do not use a Fram filter! Wix is what I use, however just about anything is better than Fram. Also to help with the start up once your done priming for oil pressure, pour just a little bit of gas down the tubes of the carb. Don't dump the gas directly into the carb, just a little bit down the front and rear tubes. Make sure your timing tab is lined back up to the position you took it out and your good to go. Also as mentioned before, you may need to readjust the oil pump rod for the distributor to line back up. You can easily do this with your oil priming tool or a long flat blade screw driver.

Option two: Change the oil and filter, dump a little gas in the front and rear carb tubes and fire it up! If its only been two years, I'd bet it will start up fairly quickly. If you can, drain the gas tank if its full and refill with some new gas.

[rcazwillis]

The only question not asked yes is "Does the motor turn by hand at the crank or flywheel?" If it does, then the motor is not frozen (pistons rusted to cylider walls).
Squirt some marvel in each cylinder, disconnect voltage to the distributor/coil, turn it over till pressure shows on the gauge, reinstall plugs, reattach power to the coil and fire it off. All should be good.

[GuyO]

I too have been through this issue, so I am somewhat sympathetic to what he is going through. I find I worry too much with "already used" used engines. New is a different story. My break in procedures for a brand spanking engine that has never been fired is completely different than getting an old one running again. An old engine should be dumped of old oil. New oil and filter, a can of engine flush or diesel oil to cut the sludge and SAE 30 oil. Granted I pull the plugs, squirt in Marvel, disconnect the fuel pump, attach an electric fuel pump to new gas, prime the carb, turn it by hand (5/8" socket on the crank pulley), disconnect the coil wire and crank it for a while to lube everything up. But then I put the plugs back in and coil wire on. I think most of us have done something similar. A new engine is completely different: priming tool, zinc additives, start/stop periods. Oil changes. etc. I have a process I use posted below and don't laugh - I do not rush it! It takes me 3 days to break it in before driving 500 miles!

Small Block Chevy Break in Procedures

Day 1
• Fill with 5 qts of Joe Gibbs Break in oil
• Remove thermostat
• Remove Distributor and prime engine with priming tool for 5 minutes with power drill, reinstall dizzy. Disconnect coil wire and prime engine for 30 seconds, reconnect coil wire.
• Check for oil and coolant leaks before start-up. Check levels. Look for coolant in oil.
• Start the engine – let run for about 30 seconds (no reving) then shut it off. Check for leaks again, for hot wires, coolant in oil etc.
• If all OK then restart the engine.

Cam timing should have been set up correctly when degreed in the cam to specifications. Only a final timing setting is needed after the distributor is installed.

• Set slow idle to 600 RPM, set timing to 4 degrees BTDC.

The person in the vehicle must monitor water temp, oil pressure, presence of smoke, etc.

The person outside the vehicle must watch for leaks and listen for harsh, unusual sounds. NOTE: As the headers heat for the first time, they will smoke as they burn off coatings.

If no problems:

• Accelerate the engine idle on carb to 1800 rpms. Run for 25 mins.
• At this point the engine should have slowed down smoking and almost stopped.
• Shut down.
Check for leaks, levels, oil in coolant/coolant in oil.
• Let soak overnight.

Day 2

• Drain oil/change filter.
• Checks for leaks, tighten pan bolts.
• Add 5 qts Joe Gibbs Break In oil
• Reinstall thermostat
• Restart engine

Set idle to 600 RPM.
Check timing (4 degrees BTDC)
Checks for leaks, unusual noises, etc.
Set idle to 1800 RPM, let engine run for 25 minutes.

• Shut down, let cool

Day 3

• Change oil and filter
• Fill with 5 quarts of Penn Oil (zinc) for rings to set for 500 miles.

After 500 miles

Change oil and filter
Fill with 5 quarts of Mobile 1, Wix filter.
Set timing to 8 BTDC, reset dizzy springs and adjust vacuum timing so that total timing is 38 degrees.

After 1000 miles

Dyno tune engine,
Rejet carb (Air to fuel) 14:1,
set timing to 8-10 BTDC